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EatonMess

Loft Groom Design

Hello everyone, looking to run some ideas past those experienced in loft grows! After having great results with my larder grow fridge in the garage, I thought about going a little bigger in the loft. So here goes.

First off apologies for my shite drawing, art was never my thing.

large_loft.png

Concept
The idea is to have a veg room and flower room for a perpetual grow. 12" passive intake drawn from a bedroom cupboard below, through acoustic ducting. Immediately at the inlet in the veg room I plan to build a plywood box with shelves in it. Timber frames with filter material stapled along it to act as drying racks. Plan is to wet trim in a trimzilla and dry in these racks.

Out of the rack and past a 1kW oil rad connected to a wall mounted thermostat. Oscillating fan in the corner blowing air across the vegging plants and Mum. Mum will be in soil for simplicity. Wanting to go with DWC in order to negate the need for hand watering and lugging soil up and down the ladder. Thinking of a Oxypot veg v6, veg 6 plants and put the best 4 into flower. Opting for the v6 rather than v4 as it's slightly smaller and even then it's overkill for a 3-4 week veg. May well make my own one instead of having high end gear wasted?

Will be cloning and dimming the light to propagate clones. Lighting from none-other than @diyleduk, super impressed with my last fitting. Lumatek Attis 200W?

Out the veg space through the top and down to the bottom of the flower space. Thinking of the PVC rectangular trunking for this. Reasonably prices and can fit 90deg bends to make an S shape to ensure no light transfer between the spaces.

8" fan and filter. Fan TBC (recommendations welcome) and definitely a Carboair filter again, they're very good. Lighting will be a Lumatek Attis 300W, I think that should be plenty for 4 plants? Oxypot 4 DWC again. 8" outlet going either to a vent outlet in the eaves, or up the shit pipe depending on length of ducting required. Temps will be automated via a fan speed controller with a temp sensor.

Under each DWC I'll have a huge oversized tray to catch any spillages.

Both rooms to have 9-12" metal style floor fans for circing air.

Both rooms are to have automatic extinguishers fitted in the centre highest point. Will also likely build a thermal cut out (one for each room), which will be linked to a contactor for the mains feed. Temp gets above XdegC, everything shuts down.

Construction
As seen in my horrendous drawing, the construction will follow the form of most grooms I think. Planning 75mm kingspan between the rafters, 25mm air-gap and then insulated plasterboard. The vertical walls will be 4x2 following the same kingspan/plasterboard arrangement. Tongue and groove chipboard flooring with a layer of soundproofing/glass wool underneath.

Small horizontal roof portion will be strapped with plenty batons so I've lots of options for placement of hanging stuff.

Both doors will be 18mm ply, insides lined with insulated plasterboard. Probably going to make them reasonably small as to not loose/gain heat from outside the groom. The door frame will have oversized stoppers and weather seal strips to ensure light tightness. Top and bottom door bolt to ensure the door is well closed.

Water already exists in the loft from the (now redundant) cold water tank. So a hose can be rigged to the stop cock for filling the DWC reservoirs and the drain overflow used for dumping between changes. Indend on drilling out and fitting ball valves with garden hose connectors on both DWC reservoirs. Then using something similar to a "PYTHON NO SPILL CLEAN & FILL" contraptions to fill and empty when needed. The look really clever and simple.

Measurements are approximate, I've not been up there with a tape yet. I have endless amounts of space to use really as it's a bungalow loft. The dimensions are likely overkill, but I'll need room to move around and potentially to navigate a scrog net in the flower room. Although I will likely try with LST first?

Power Requirements
Lighting 500W max
Rad 1kW
Exh fan 150W max
Circ fans 50W
Air pumps 20W

Total: 1.72kW, 7.5A

The bulk of this wattage is the 1kW heater, in the winter the central heating will be used, so I can't see this being switched on often. Likewise, in the summer it definitely won't be used. So realistically looking at a 3A current draw.

There is a 1G socket up there already for the TV signal booster, so I can run a fused spur off that if it's already spurred from a ring final - or even just make it a 2G. Could also run a radial up there if I can be bothered too.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________

All advise and input, corrections, etc are welcomed. Totally new to DWC as being a soil grower before hand. It seems the best option AFAIK, but happy to hear all suggestions.

Edited by EatonMess

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Looks like youve put a great deal of thought into it .... so thought maybe I would pass on some lessons Ive learned. 

 

Your air gap should ideally be 50mm and directly below the felt, dont push insulation up against the felt you create a dew point on the underside of the felt which damages timber long term and drips into groom. 

You can never have enough sockets 

You can never have enough space ... try and make the space easily adaptable rather than specific and fixed. You will change it about. 

Make it easy to clean , dont let shite gather. Place for waste bin, 

Allow space for storage of nutes and accessories. 

Add a wireless linked smoke alarm with one down stairs

Add a small service lights

12" passive input in a roof will let all sorts of unwanted guests in.

8" into 4" will put back pressure on your extract and make the fan more inefficient. I vent straight into the roof space (next door) which is properly ventilated (and mine) so no issues with condensation. 

Use anti vibration mounts for fans or the noise will tend to get transmitted through the structure. Bungees are good for main extract and filter. 

Your lighting allowance looks about half what it should be but I dont use LED .... maybe I should !! 

How are you dealing with light leaks into flower room ??

 

Hope that lot of tosh helps :smokin: enjoy 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Bartyfartblast said:

Looks like youve put a great deal of thought into it .... so thought maybe I would pass on some lessons Ive learned. 

 

Your air gap should ideally be 50mm and directly below the felt, dont push insulation up against the felt you create a dew point on the underside of the felt which damages timber long term and drips into groom. 

You can never have enough sockets 

You can never have enough space ... try and make the space easily adaptable rather than specific and fixed. You will change it about. 

Make it easy to clean , dont let shite gather. Place for waste bin, 

Allow space for storage of nutes and accessories. 

Add a wireless linked smoke alarm with one down stairs

Add a small service lights

12" passive input in a roof will let all sorts of unwanted guests in.

8" into 4" will put back pressure on your extract and make the fan more inefficient. I vent straight into the roof space (next door) which is properly ventilated (and mine) so no issues with condensation. 

Use anti vibration mounts for fans or the noise will tend to get transmitted through the structure. Bungees are good for main extract and filter. 

Your lighting allowance looks about half what it should be but I dont use LED .... maybe I should !! 

How are you dealing with light leaks into flower room ??

 

Hope that lot of tosh helps :smokin: enjoy 

 

 

Thanks for the reply! Much appreciated!

Okay thanks, so am I following correctly: Roof felt>50mm>Kingspan>Insulated plaster. Should there be another air gap between the plaster and kingspan?

I'll be pulling cable soon for fire alarms to comply with the change in regs, so I'll make a point of fitting two up there as well. Great suggestion.

The 12" passive intake will be coming from a bedroom cupboard though, it will also be filtered with a pair of tights or the like. 8" into 4"? What does that mean? Also I thought the rule of thumb for passive intakes was 3-5x the area of your exhaust?

Yes the lighting seems inadequate for the space, but tbh the space is the size it is because the groom is following the shape of the roof. It's also oversized so I can move about.

The rooms will be split by a partition wall. The door conjoining will be fashioned the same way as the door from the rest of the loft.

Thanks again Barty!

 

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On 27/10/2020 at 7:46 PM, EatonMess said:

Thanks for the reply! Much appreciated!

Okay thanks, so am I following correctly: Roof felt>50mm>Kingspan>Insulated plaster.   Yes ,  insulated plaster board is certainly going the extra mile 

 

Should there be another air gap between the plaster and kingspan?  No need for another air gap unless you want additional insulation ..

I'll be pulling cable soon for fire alarms to comply with the change in regs, so I'll make a point of fitting two up there as well.    Sounds like youre pretty savvy on the electrical front 

 8" into 4"? What does that mean?  Your extract into the shit pipe .... assuming that your soil vent is normal 4" pipe ??  



 

 

 

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sweet got you.

was up in the oft tonight and i got the measurements well off...

We are looking at 1.5m width, but also height. Yet there's 2m x 1.5, 3m x 1.5 and 3.5.

What would you do and what about everybody else? 75mm kingspan the100m web straps vs rafters?

 

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