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mrevolve

shade
Retrofit 1000w DE in Air Cooled Irradiator 6in SunSystem (+ Sensors)

Posted (edited)

Hi all,

 

I wanted to purchase a nice branded, widespread shade with air cooling ability. At the time, I was unable to find anything so I made my own. I've had this for some time, but thought I'd finally share as I've installed some sensors and it's given me the chance to photo the previous work I've done to convert it.

 

Unable to find anything, I decided I would modify my current shade to suit the 1000w double end (DE) light setup. To my surprise, it was surprisingly easy because MOST euro shades I have measured fit inside this unit. As well as recording what I've done, consider this a how-to. Before you say I bought a DE 1000w shade I had one to hand and didn't see the need to buy another shade just to wire it myself. If anyone know's of a decent branded DE shade please share, but for now, here's my how too including sensor installation for retro fitting.

 

First, you'll need;

Air cooled shade of your choice - I was extremely happy with the build quality and overall integrity of the SunSystem's shades so grabbed myself the 6 inch setup.

Double ended 1000w system - measure the length of the euro shade - ensure it will fit inside. I'm using an Adjustawatt 1000w DE 400v setup. I'm hoping to replace this soon but it shouldn't matter what ballast or bulb you use.

Drill / bits, sizing depending on the wire size of your setup

Wire cutters

Insulation tape

Various sized grommets (depending on your setup)

A camera - to share with your local uk420 forum :bong:

Test fit the euro shade into the unit, if the length is measured correctly it will fit inside, open up and support itself within the shade. Without having to modify the end reflectors.

If the euroshade does not fit, modify it best you can to be slightly wider than the overall width of the air cooled shade. There will be a ledge inside, this is what the euro shade sits on. You can then best the lamp position into the air cooled lamp, with the shades wings giving the typical V stance, they will be supported. Cutting the reflector material is easy using tin snips. Just be careful with any cut metal and ensure you use needle files to deburr edges and hoovering is a must - try and do metal drilling / filing outside (shed).

 

Additional; I have installed three temperature/humidity sensors and a light sensor into this unit. I'm using a 7 core wire to transfer the signal, which is why I've also included a roof sensor and an external shade sensor. I am measuring inside the shade temperature/humidity to understand the system, not to use as an environmental measure. Canopy height is the main temperature to go by, this will be done separately. As well as lower tent temperature.

I am using DHT11 sensors and TS2561 light sensor.

 

large.20190101_170712.jpg large.20190101_171624.jpg

 

Once you've collected your items, take apart fully the air-cooled shade. You'll need to re-wire the ballast to bulb loom and feed it into the light. There may be a hole already, which would save you some drilling time.

 

large.20190101_135349.jpg

 

 

 

large.20190101_135314.jpglarge.20190101_135311.jpg

 

large.20190101_135403.jpglarge.20190101_164857.jpg

 

large.20190101_182801.jpg

 

Ensure when removing part of the shades reflector, you install the suitable grommet to allow for the cable to run. Heat and pressure on the wire will eventually short out. With 400v setups being common with DE units, you don't want this to happen! Use plenty of electrical tape between the wires, I opted for amalgamating tape around the lot at the end.

 

large.20190101_170705.jpg 

large.20190101_165024.jpg

 

Holes will be required for any sensors you wish to install. Make sure any temperature/humidity sensors are not directly against a surface, the airflow on surfaces is inaccurate as a measurement. 3mm hex pillars are an easy way to do this. I'm unsure the effects of air flow causing temperature variation in this setup, but until someones tried it and proven it's inaccurate then I'm hoping to gather some useful data.

 

large.20190101_162518.jpglarge.20190101_184451.jpg

 

Lay the euro reflector down inside the unit, if all is well, it will fit and the sides will hold in place. I've tried different shades, I was unable to find one that didn't fit. Of course, the width of the euro reflector will be important as this will determine the height and central location of the lamp. Just ensure you measure it first; I'm certain most will fit. But check!

 

large.20190101_182820.jpg

 

Once in position, ensure all wiring is tucked out the way of air flow and confirm all wires are still secure.

 

large.20190101_182753.jpg

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

Plan your holes ahead of drilling. The side unit shows the wire for the tent roof sensor, the external shade sensor and the 7 core wire which has the sensor voltage and signals. Always mark up the wires if they use the same colours, I've notes wire colours for connections. I label the sensors, these will be the sensor numbers which will reference the programming code when I install them and begin to data log.

 

 

 

Above are showing the grey 3 core wire for top of the tent sensor, 7 core wire and the largest power cable for the lamp.

 

large.20190101_163222.jpg  large.20190101_184331.jpg

 

I placed my external shade temperature sensor near the safety catch for when the glass panel is open so I can secure it neatly.

 

I'm sure there are options for shades with DE system's already installed, I've only found cheap units which I wouldn't personally buy. If someone already has an air cooled shade, but purchased a non-air cooled setup I hope this will be useful.

 

The instructions are basic but clear;

  • Be safe protecting any re-soldered wires
  • Ensure wires are supported, not tight and use grommits when going through metal to ensure wires are not cut
  • Do not use crimps with any high voltage wires - my personal opinion
  • Don't coil high voltage cables
  • Use cable ties on the wire inside the unit to ensure they don't get pulled out if knocked externally

 

I'll post some of the data when I have begun to capture it. I'm still finishing off the main data collection system. Photos of the finished unit;

 

large.20190103_125812.jpg

 

Above showing location of the external shade temperature. Directing away from the light, to stop light impacting air values (potentially).

 

large.20190101_184428.jpg

 

There are a million places I would have put the sensor. However, of ease of installation and repeatability, I thought this location was best. Directly facing the lamp at such close contact may give me inaccruate results (unless I use top industry sensors). I'm not light expert, so I'm hoping for some feedback at light degredation at least - even if I'm unable to use as a comparitve value in other situations.

 

large.20190101_184436.jpglarge.20190101_184342.jpg

 

large.20190103_125825.jpg

large.20190103_125820.jpg

 

The orange wire shown is the additional CFL lighting I have in the corners. White cable is for the corner fans. Showing below is the top air temperature sensor.

 

large.20190101_184455.jpg

 

Feedback is welcome, of course, please be nice, I'm new! :) 

 

Edited by mrevolve

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Posted (edited)

Hi, I don't think you should cool your DE lamp as the spectrum is affected I believe. Available cooled hoods insulate the light from the airflow.

Sorry for sounding negative mate, just what I read when I was looking at controlling temps a bit better, your actual ideas/work look great! 

Edited by Nuttyprof
edited to stop me looking such a negative twat

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Posted (edited)

Hi @Nuttyprof , not negative dude don't worry, cooling does reduce output. But if you also research the variation between the most popular lamps and ballast, people use non-air cooled reflectors and get less output purely through the choice of components.

 

Don't forget you can get the light closer to the plants - heavily offsetting any loss of light.

 

I could only have 600w with no cooling hood. Hopefully, my next choice of ballast and lamp will counter any typical reduction cooling the lamp gives.

 

With heat being the main give away to our setups to external investigations, I prefer to keep mine a little cooler.

Edited by mrevolve
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