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Aphatspliff

Water for 2 weeks, still not burning clean

22 posts in this topic
5 hours ago, MicroDoser said:

Once your dried product has enough phosphorous in it, you will see a smoke that does not need relighting, and burns clean leaving white ash.

 

I think you are getting K (potassium) and P (phospherous) mixed up. Too much K will cause an almost solid white burn, where as too much P causes a black burn. For example there are actually residual limits to the amount of phosphorous that can be found in tobacco used for cigarettes because IIRC burning and inhaling too much P can be toxic. The last thing anyone on here wants to be doing is increasing the amount of P they give to their plants - P in the A&B, P in the unnecessary PK boosters, and P in the Ph down! No amount of flushing in the world is going to save that. 

 

Solid white ash is not entirely normal IMO, uniform, very light, fluffy grey ash that does not stick to the end of the joint and burns very consistently all the way down is what I look for.. 

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12 hours ago, Golden Syrup said:

 

I think you are getting K (potassium) and P (phosphorous) mixed up. Too much K will cause an almost solid white burn, where as too much P causes a black burn. For example there are actually residual limits to the amount of phosphorous that can be found in tobacco used for cigarettes because IIRC burning and inhaling too much P can be toxic. The last thing anyone on here wants to be doing is increasing the amount of P they give to their plants - P in the A&B, P in the unnecessary PK boosters, and P in the Ph down! No amount of flushing in the world is going to save that. 

 

Solid white ash is not entirely normal IMO, uniform, very light, fluffy grey ash that does not stick to the end of the joint and burns very consistently all the way down is what I look for.. 

 

You are right, I was getting my chemical symbols mixed. It has been decades since I micro-managed my macro-nutrients. I cannot find a reference to what I was posting. I am also remembering something from decades ago so I am probably not remembering details accurately but I am sure that flushing is not the answer, it was years after I got clean burning weed that I started flushing. I fixed the clean burning by making sure that I fed my plants well, at the time I just put them in compost and hand watered them, which was essentially a 5-6 week flush leading to massive deficiencies and a black hard ash. When I say `white ash`, I am meaning `not hard black ash` but proper ash, the sort you want, like you describe.

 

I am certain that the burning of the phosphorous in the weed meant a higher cherry temperature which lead to a different chemical make up of the ash. This was not described as a desirable thing from a health point of course but then smoking is not desirable from that viewpoint. Too much P is very very very toxic (phossy jaw anyone?) but not enough means your weed just does not burn by itself. My opinion is that using the right feed for the right substrate will allow the plant to absorb nutrients better and so it will burn better with or without a flush.

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Posted (edited)


I Would knock the bat guano on the head some of it has a very high phosphorus count and is slow release, even if you think you have stopped feeding its still doing its job imho

Edited by Jimboo
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Posted (edited)

@MicroDoser@Golden Syrup@Jimboo

 

Cheers for the replies lads, much appreciated. The knowledge some heads have on these boards is incredible! I love this forum ha!

 

It’s funny you brought this thread back up actually. I had a bit of a eureka moment when reading through the OT1 feed schedule thread last week.

 

Quote

But personally I would change things a little, I suggest by raising the grow to bloom ratio at the end of flowering you raise the potash level and lower the phosphorus level, this gives a much sweeter cleaner burn.

 

I didn’t raise the grow and was probably giving them too much bloom towards the end. And the bat guano as mentioned before could have been a problem too. This time I’ve got 6 Disco Biscuits in light mix, flipped them last week and there on 1ml fish mix and 1ml bloom at the min. They’re doing well apart from some temp issues which I’ve sorted now. Dropped all the additives and guano this time round. Fingers crossed for some lovely clean herbs!

 

Aphat :spliff:

Edited by Aphatspliff
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I would be interested to know the results you get this time as far as clean burning goes (and of course any bud porn ;) )

 

Good luck!

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I shall report back in 10 weeks or so! :woot:

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On 30/03/2018 at 4:24 PM, Aphatspliff said:

@MicroDoser@Golden Syrup@Jimboo

 

Cheers for the replies lads, much appreciated. The knowledge some heads have on these boards is incredible! I love this forum ha!

 

It’s funny you brought this thread back up actually. I had a bit of a eureka moment when reading through the OT1 feed schedule thread last week.

 

 

I didn’t raise the grow and was probably giving them too much bloom towards the end. And the bat guano as mentioned before could have been a problem too. This time I’ve got 6 Disco Biscuits in light mix, flipped them last week and there on 1ml fish mix and 1ml bloom at the min. They’re doing well apart from some temp issues which I’ve sorted now. Dropped all the additives and guano this time round. Fingers crossed for some lovely clean herbs!

 

Aphat :spliff:

 

That sounds like what I was trying and failing to remember. I know that flushing is not the key to avoiding `wet coal` weed, but feeding instead.

 

IMHO a lot of the benefits that flushing brings are obtained by a good cure. These benefits are obtained at the cost of yield. By not flushing but curing properly, you get the full yield and also the smooth smoke.

 

This is a topic of much debate ;)

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