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Budsy

General EC Info/Advice Please

Hi all.  Ive just bought a Bluelab EC Truncheon and would like any aditional info in using it and

general info on EC. Im in Hydro with AN GMB nutes and a small Voodoo Juice not going to use boosters

i want to keep it simple. Ive alreay read about using the nutea at a lower strength and build up as they can

be abit strong but with an EC meter ill be able to monitor it properlt for once, so here is the info ive gathered

from browsing the forums. If anyone can add/correct anything or give knowledge the thanks in advance.

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Small plant needs 400-600ppm, bigger plant 700-800 and heavy flower needs 900-1200 max.

if, as your tank levels drop, the e.c level rises, = too much fert
if, as the tank level drops, the e.c drops, = not enough ferts
    

13/6 - w1 - pop bean - mix 1f 1r
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Small plant needs 400-600ppm, bigger plant 700-800 and heavy flower needs 900-1200 max.

if, as your tank levels drop, the e.c level rises, = too much fert
if, as the tank level drops, the e.c drops, = not enough ferts
---------
Advanced Nutrients use EC scale 700

eg
2.4EC x 500 = 1200ppm (500 scale) or 1200ppm / 500 = 2.4EC
2.4EC x 700 = 1680ppm (700 scale) or 1680ppm / 700 = 2.4EC
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General Grow Regime Example

Vegetive feeding 0.6-1.2 EC

Flower 1.2-1.6 EC

Flowering formula for 8 weeks using Sensi bloom A+B, Big bud and Overdrive. Medium Feeding:-

Week 1:-Add equal parts of sensi bloom A+B to reach 1.2EC

Week 2:-Add equal parts of sensi bloom A+B to reach 1.3EC

Week3:-Add equal parts of sensi bloom A+B to reach 1.2EC,

then top off with Big Bud until a reading of 1.4EC is reached.

Week4:-Add equal parts of sensi bloom A+B to reach 1.1EC then top off with Big Bud until a reading of 1.5 is reached.

Week5:-Add equal parts of sensi bloom A+B to reach 1.1e.c then top off with Big Bud until a reading of 1.6EC is reached.

Week6:-Add 2.5mls per litre of Overdrive, then top off with equal parts of Sensi Bloom A+B until a reading of 1.6EC is reached.

Week7:-Add 2.5mls per litre of Overdrive, then add equal parts of Sensi bloom A+B until a reading of 1.4EC is reached.
-----------

 

Does this all make sense???

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1 hour ago, Budsy said:

Small plant needs 400-600ppm, bigger plant 700-800 and heavy flower needs 900-1200 max.

 

If you have your system dialled in and your environment sorted you do not need to run so high at all. My last run I topped out at 580ppm and they looked like they needed less as they were too green...

 

At the end of the day, your plants will have individual needs. If you watch them, they will tell you if the food is too high, or too low.

 

If your room is full of clones of one plant then over time you can really get things close to ideal. Otherwise you will get much experience looking at your plants, the leaves, and detecting either over-fertilisation, or under-fertilisation. Very green leaves are a sign of too much food, yellowing at the growing tips or on older leaves means not enough. Necrosis or chlorosis is a more severe deficiency.

 

I would suggest to measure the EC of the solution that runs off your plants as well as the nutes you feed them. If it is higher than the solution going in then your nutes are too strong or you may have a pathogen.

 

Here is a handy chart for finding out what is going wrong.

 

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Generally your food would have to be well out to see signs of deficiencies if your PH is right. If you use the two charts I have posted, top one first, then if you have older leaves going yellow with necrosis (dying) that would suggest a potassium deficiency. If we then look at the lower section of the lower chart (hydro) we see it is fine with a PH under about 6.0.

 

If we then checked our PH and found it to be 6.1 or over then that would show a solution to the issue (PH down). If the PH was well within the range then personally I would do a tank refresh to make sure all the needed feed was there in the right ratio.

 

Another example would be young leaves, chlorosis (losing green colour), and if the loss of green was all over the leaf then that suggests iron or sulphur deficiency. When I had this it needed a bit of google-fu because I had used copper in my system and copper blocks iron uptake! Not every problem has a solution which is PH or EC.

 

Unfortunately, I cannot say whether you regime will be good or not for your plants because I would need to be familiar with your plants to know.

 

It is a very good place to start though, follow your regime and only deviate if your plants show they do not like it.

 

Don't forget PH is just as, if not more, important.

 

EDIT :

1 hour ago, Budsy said:

Advanced Nutrients use EC scale 700

 

Just noticed this, those numbers do not seem so extreme now. Myself though, I would pick just one scale and stick with it, it will help you avoid issues later. Most people use 1EC=500PPM.

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Nice one thanks for all the Info Micro. Ill take it all on board. Im using the PH perfect nutes

because my last few grows the PH was all over the place and crops were ruined.

 

The deficiency chart is really usefull you gotta be quick to diagnose in Hydro.

 

Im doing some female THC Bombs with AN grow micro bloom nutes and gonna use some Voodoo for root stim

rather than rhizotonic. Cheers.

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Just another question guys. About background EC. Im reading different advice about whether to

add the background EC (tap water measurement) to nute measurement or ignore it or add it at

half. What is the consensus on this matter?? Cheers.

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2 hours ago, Budsy said:

Just another question guys. About background EC. Im reading different advice about whether to

add the background EC (tap water measurement) to nute measurement or ignore it or add it at

half. What is the consensus on this matter?? Cheers.

 

Just do it the same each time, and the same between cycles, then your numbers make sense crop to crop. If you are watching your plants for deficiencies or overfeeding you will adjust to the same strength no matter which way you choose to measure.

 

If at any point you plan on moving to Reverse Osmosis then subtract your base EC, it will mean your numbers are closer to the ones you will need then.

 

Some people when using RO add half tap water and half RO water, myself I add 10% or so. The different ways of measuring might be a result of people hearing about that.

 

Any other views on this?

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1 hour ago, MicroDoser said:

Any other views on this?

 

Doh, meant to say 'does anyone else have any other views on this?'

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19 hours ago, Budsy said:

Week 1:-Add equal parts of sensi bloom A+B to reach 1.2EC

that is all you need to do in flower, just use your grow and bloom, ec of 2.2 is high, thats what we call turbo weed, no amount of flushing can make herb grew with chemical feed at 2.2ec smoke ok, itl burn with a nasty black ash. using just the grow and bloom, and a litytles seaweed extract will give great tasting buds, i used to have a bluelab to mesure ec when i was doing a big bedroom full of plants, as we were using the bath tub, to mix our nutes in, i thought the b/lab truncheon was a great move. 

when growing in coco fibre using canna a and b nutes i mix it to a strenth of 1.2ec for cuttings/ small plants, and then up it to around 1.6 in mid to late veg, use seaweed extract in veg too on top of your grow feeds at 2ml per liter or 4ml per liter as a spray. its organic and in hydro it solves allot of nute problems, or stress, and it gives the plant more growth hormones, producing more growth vigor. when your into flower use your b/lab to get the bloom upto about 1.8ec maximum, unless the plant is asking for more, then maybe go upto 2.0 ec for like a week or 2 max, mid flower, then back down to 1.6 to 1.8ec. just give plain tap water at room temp for the last 10 days if using chemical nutes, or if your on the ball and slowly reduce your ec in late bloom, then you can get away with maybe 5 to 7 days water only, and itl smoke smooth with no black ash. as at the end of the day we grow our own for the best tastes/ buzz/ high that suits us , its not just yield, we want good sweet tasting herb that aint burning harsh after going through all the effort growing it. :yep:

all the best with your grow, remember keep it simple,weed grows with the rite grow or bloom nutes. we dont need all these additives and stuff. :smokin:

oh dont use overdrive its just horrid carbs to make em fat, full of carbs meens black burning ash from the buds when smoked giving a harsh horrid smoke. use molasses if you want as a late carb nute in flower. its organic plant sugars. make sure its either cystalized molasses or unsulferd molasses if its in a jar like honey/treacle :skin_up:

edit to add spelling. lol 

Edited by smokie1 b c f c

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forgot to say in hydro if your water has a background ec out the tap, then you basically deduct that ec of what your mixing. so if its say 0.2ec out the tap and you want to make up a feed mix of say 1.2 you would put in your feed of 1.0 ec making it 1.2. hard water it is if your ec is showing out the tap, always best to buy a hard water hydro grow and bloom too, and some nitric acid for ph down as the ph will more than likely be way off 5.5 - 6.0 ph if your in a earea with a ec reading out the tap. 

i found that in my area the cold tap comes out at about ph7.0 and no ec, but the hot tap will flash up on the bluelab as a low background ec of like the lowest reading at .1 ec i think it is, its been a while. lol 

Edited by smokie1 b c f c

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