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  1. I posting this here to try and stop people getting charged £750 + for a set of plates and controls, if you have a few days or know about stuff it can be a fully 20t including the hydraulic press for £850 or so,I use SGS ENGINEERING for the presses in the uk as they have 10yr warranty .. IMHO this should be here like this for people to copy from .. Here is how to build a control unit for a rosin press. This set up provides 500w of heat to each plate , with a thermocouple separate from the heaters. The reason for this is it will give a better reading as it not attached to the heaters.. When a heater and thermocouple are together in the heater this will ALWAYS give a reading @ least 10 degrees out of what it is at the best instance.. Each rosin plate is 5 inch x 3inch and 2 inch thick, each heater is 250w so total power is 1kw.. The reason for so much power is it heats the plates quickly and means when the temp set there is less drift or overshoots or drop off .. The controllers are programable with a limiter for low set point, i use 50c, and a high set point, i use 130c as i never go above that.. There is also a hysteresis setting which is like how many readings it does at a given time, so i use .5 so twice a second.. This also aids temperature stability as it reads twice a second.. When the temp s set to 90c it will only overshoot to 94c max, and will drop to 87c then re heat..I think these controllers give better stability than sasquatch presses and dabinator press imho from using them.. You will need the following parts : all Maplins 1x Plastic surface mount project box from maplins, pic shows part no.. 1 x junction box also maplins.. 5M 3 core 2mm mains cable from maplins. 2 x IEC Switched sockets , from maplins pic shows part no.. 4 x Cable glands for 5mm cable.. Heat shrink 3mm and 7mm Nylon ties Nylon tie , tie downs, sticky backed 2 x Novos n322jk240/r/r pids pic shows part no and where from.. (from under control instruments) 4 x 6.5 mm heater cart 100mm long part no 65100250230-7242012 (from under control instruments) 2 x thermocouple Type K-T/C3x100mm 1.5m GF/SSOB-50TO=400C . (from under control instruments Set of plates from China made to your spec, i asked for 2 x 6.5mm diameter heater holes at one end and 3mm diameter 100mm long thermocouple at opposite end, These cost £90 to your door, best price i get in UK is £116, my engineer friend says what i get from china is same grade he uses. I do get him to do a final polish etc .. Tool wise you need a soldering iron and solder, side cutters, wire strippers, stanley knife, phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, drill and pilot bits and 16mm drill cutter , set square and ruler , butane torch , helping hands clamps .. This is the part no of project box from maplins Iec switch Pid control novus 1st job is to mark out where the switches and controls go, also drill 2x 16mm holes for the glands for cables to come out (shown at the end) You then drill a few holes on the INSIDE of the marking out, better to take less off than too much.... Then it best to do this outdoors, heat the stanley blade with the Butane torch , i do this as it cuts though/melts the plastic easier than a cold blade.. I am aware of the risks, i do it outside.. Then drill a 16mm hole either side , the side you not mount switches or controls, so the narrow sides... Then dry fit the switches and controllers , make them fit snug, with cutting slithers of plastic with a cold stanley, the blades do this better as less material to cut.. The next pic shows the iec switch with the rear cover off ... This pic shows the cables tinned with solder ready to solder to switch to their proper places.. This pic shows the 2 switches soldered but not heat shrunk .. The next pic shows a finished switch with the heat shrink added.. So now we have 2 prepped switches, we now need to connect the Live and Neutral to the controller, we need to make a small jumper cable to get power across the pid, bellow is a pic of an untinned jumper cable .. How to join 2 fiddly wires with solder .. The next pic shows how to connect up to the pid, the earth is not used here it goes to the plates.. Both Pid controls wired for power ... Then get the thermocouple and attach it as shown, if it the wrong way round it reads - , wont go bang .. The next bit is to connect the heater carts, we use 2 x 1.5 mtr length of mains cable to do this part as the heaters have short cables, this is why we use a Breakout box or junction box, to connect heaters.. Strip back enough outer insulation on mains so inside insulated cables reach the power sides of pids as shown in pic ... This pic is the heater extender cables , separate from the thermocouple side... The next pic shows breakout junction box with the heaters wired in ..The earth runs from here to the plates, will do this when it set up where it going to live, although now i think of it spain might not earth This pic shows the thermocouple side outlet ... here is a pic of the un finished plates, these my rough mocking up set .. I hope this will help people not get ripped off by the stuff you can buy ready made... I will add some more info here on how to tidy up the wires inside box etc... That it for now till next time take it easy .....