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Found 5 results

  1. So I’ve moved house after about 7 years of growing. Feels like a lifetime, had fallen into a good groove with growing and everything ran like clockwork for years now. One issue I had last year with a 1000w Lumatek digital dimmable ballast connected to a 100cm Sunking White Parabolic was the IEC connector melting slightly and being SO bloody hot to the touch, burnt hands hot. The cables were roasting too. Really concerned me as I was running two of them. I never replaced it as I didn’t need the second light really and had years of jars full from one or two grows a year. I just kept check of the other ones temp constantly and it was hot, but not as hot. Now ive not grown in about a year, 6 months into new place. Built a room in brick garage, brought ballasts but not reflectors. Want to get set up again as the temperature is dropping and so are my well cured jars! So what reflectors our there can handle 1000ws safely long term? Google and search here threw up some other threads discussing 10a vs 16a IEC connectors but differing shape etc. Seemed to settle on modern digital ballasts being okay with 10a connectors as they draw slightly under 10a, vs old magnetic drawing over 10a. Only reflector I could find with a quick google was the 80cm Lumatek Shinobi parabolic claiming big uprated cables which is the sort of peace of mind id like I suppose. But meant to fit in a smaller 1m tent vs my space planned more on 1.5x1.2ish per light. Would love to hear anyone’s longer term views on this stuff. Got to be loads of us out there running 1000ws for a while without any fires! Maybe I just got unlucky with a “built on a Friday” IEC connector on that parabolic or something... Thanks for reading!
  2. Hi all, I wanted to purchase a nice branded, widespread shade with air cooling ability. At the time, I was unable to find anything so I made my own. I've had this for some time, but thought I'd finally share as I've installed some sensors and it's given me the chance to photo the previous work I've done to convert it. Unable to find anything, I decided I would modify my current shade to suit the 1000w double end (DE) light setup. To my surprise, it was surprisingly easy because MOST euro shades I have measured fit inside this unit. As well as recording what I've done, consider this a how-to. Before you say I bought a DE 1000w shade I had one to hand and didn't see the need to buy another shade just to wire it myself. If anyone know's of a decent branded DE shade please share, but for now, here's my how too including sensor installation for retro fitting. First, you'll need; Air cooled shade of your choice - I was extremely happy with the build quality and overall integrity of the SunSystem's shades so grabbed myself the 6 inch setup. Double ended 1000w system - measure the length of the euro shade - ensure it will fit inside. I'm using an Adjustawatt 1000w DE 400v setup. I'm hoping to replace this soon but it shouldn't matter what ballast or bulb you use. Drill / bits, sizing depending on the wire size of your setup Wire cutters Insulation tape Various sized grommets (depending on your setup) A camera - to share with your local uk420 forum Test fit the euro shade into the unit, if the length is measured correctly it will fit inside, open up and support itself within the shade. Without having to modify the end reflectors. If the euroshade does not fit, modify it best you can to be slightly wider than the overall width of the air cooled shade. There will be a ledge inside, this is what the euro shade sits on. You can then best the lamp position into the air cooled lamp, with the shades wings giving the typical V stance, they will be supported. Cutting the reflector material is easy using tin snips. Just be careful with any cut metal and ensure you use needle files to deburr edges and hoovering is a must - try and do metal drilling / filing outside (shed). Additional; I have installed three temperature/humidity sensors and a light sensor into this unit. I'm using a 7 core wire to transfer the signal, which is why I've also included a roof sensor and an external shade sensor. I am measuring inside the shade temperature/humidity to understand the system, not to use as an environmental measure. Canopy height is the main temperature to go by, this will be done separately. As well as lower tent temperature. I am using DHT11 sensors and TS2561 light sensor. Once you've collected your items, take apart fully the air-cooled shade. You'll need to re-wire the ballast to bulb loom and feed it into the light. There may be a hole already, which would save you some drilling time. Ensure when removing part of the shades reflector, you install the suitable grommet to allow for the cable to run. Heat and pressure on the wire will eventually short out. With 400v setups being common with DE units, you don't want this to happen! Use plenty of electrical tape between the wires, I opted for amalgamating tape around the lot at the end. Holes will be required for any sensors you wish to install. Make sure any temperature/humidity sensors are not directly against a surface, the airflow on surfaces is inaccurate as a measurement. 3mm hex pillars are an easy way to do this. I'm unsure the effects of air flow causing temperature variation in this setup, but until someones tried it and proven it's inaccurate then I'm hoping to gather some useful data. Lay the euro reflector down inside the unit, if all is well, it will fit and the sides will hold in place. I've tried different shades, I was unable to find one that didn't fit. Of course, the width of the euro reflector will be important as this will determine the height and central location of the lamp. Just ensure you measure it first; I'm certain most will fit. But check! Once in position, ensure all wiring is tucked out the way of air flow and confirm all wires are still secure. Plan your holes ahead of drilling. The side unit shows the wire for the tent roof sensor, the external shade sensor and the 7 core wire which has the sensor voltage and signals. Always mark up the wires if they use the same colours, I've notes wire colours for connections. I label the sensors, these will be the sensor numbers which will reference the programming code when I install them and begin to data log. Above are showing the grey 3 core wire for top of the tent sensor, 7 core wire and the largest power cable for the lamp. I placed my external shade temperature sensor near the safety catch for when the glass panel is open so I can secure it neatly. I'm sure there are options for shades with DE system's already installed, I've only found cheap units which I wouldn't personally buy. If someone already has an air cooled shade, but purchased a non-air cooled setup I hope this will be useful. The instructions are basic but clear; Be safe protecting any re-soldered wires Ensure wires are supported, not tight and use grommits when going through metal to ensure wires are not cut Do not use crimps with any high voltage wires - my personal opinion Don't coil high voltage cables Use cable ties on the wire inside the unit to ensure they don't get pulled out if knocked externally I'll post some of the data when I have begun to capture it. I'm still finishing off the main data collection system. Photos of the finished unit; Above showing location of the external shade temperature. Directing away from the light, to stop light impacting air values (potentially). There are a million places I would have put the sensor. However, of ease of installation and repeatability, I thought this location was best. Directly facing the lamp at such close contact may give me inaccruate results (unless I use top industry sensors). I'm not light expert, so I'm hoping for some feedback at light degredation at least - even if I'm unable to use as a comparitve value in other situations. The orange wire shown is the additional CFL lighting I have in the corners. White cable is for the corner fans. Showing below is the top air temperature sensor. Feedback is welcome, of course, please be nice, I'm new!
  3. Hello Herbalists, So i purchased a Solis-Tek 1000w Dimmable Digital ballast and im looking to run it paired up with a double ended reflector and bulbs. My tent size is 120x120x230, and i plan on running a 600w MH bulb for veg and a 1000w HPS for flower. im just after some advice on what bulb brands are the ones to go for as i hear some bulbs do not like the high frequency of digital ballasts. also, im looking for a little help sourcing a DE reflector and the DE 400v bulbs as im not having much luck. i assume links are not allowed so just the name of a place will do,here or pm. am i correct in thinking that MH bulbs are not dimmable? Thanks.
  4. Hi there i have a 400w mh bulb on at the moment and would like to add another light in the tent either adding a 600w or a 1000w and taking out the 400w 4 Plants Tent - 1.2m x 1.2m x 2m Temp - 18c in tent and 25c at canopy lights on and 15c lights off intake fan - 6" rvk fan bringing in cold air from outside clay pebbles 2x 90litre oxy pot bubblers with 2 plants sitting in each is anyone using a 1000w in this size tent ? or even a 600w and a 400w ?
  5. Amazon Aeroponic 16-Pot System (1.5" Net Pots) I have a few questions about this system and style of growing if anyone has used it before or one like it? 1. Would this 16 plant system be suitable for 16 MJ plants or would two of the 8 plant systems be better? Going straight into flowering from clones approx 9" in height. 2. If the 16 plant system is okay, would running x1 600 Watt HPS be enough or would two be required or perhaps a single 1000 watt HPS? Which would you use?