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superfruit

Under house grow (micro-ish) - first grow

48 posts in this topic

Thanks to the help of many here, I'm finally up and running.

 

Tent: Hydrolabs 120x60x120 lowered to 110cm

Lights: Dimmable 600w Omega digital ballast with dual spectrum bulb, set to 250w 

Extractor: RVK 4" Sileo e2

Filter: Carboair 50

Misc: RootIt heat matt & thermostat

 

Strain: Sigmartha AK48 autos

Soil: PlantMagic Supreme in 2 US Gallon fabric pots

Temps: Outside tent: 12-13c consistent. Inside tent: 23.5c-24c with lights on

Lighting: 24/0 to maintain environment - cheaper than a rad!

 

Germination day 1 - straight into the soil

 

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Edited by superfruit
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Good luck on the grow chap :yep:    Love the Sagamatha gear, quite a few old & loved strains , i will be trying my hand at some old school Sagamatha outdoors coupled with some light dep.

 

Keep the progress & pic reports coming ;) 

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I may have made my first mistake already. I could have sworn the videos I've watched of directly germinating into soil, the seeds were just dropped in.

 

Should I have positioned them in a particular way?

 

They've been under soil now, about 1cm deep, for 3 hours. Shall I just leave them and fingers crossed?

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37 minutes ago, superfruit said:

I may have made my first mistake already. I could have sworn the videos I've watched of directly germinating into soil, the seeds were just dropped in.

 

Should I have positioned them in a particular way?

 

They've been under soil now, about 1cm deep, for 3 hours. Shall I just leave them and fingers crossed?

Leave them.....

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If you germinating in the pot you just drop it in.  Takes approx 2-3 day to pop up normally.

 

In future filling the pots more will help when it comes to LSTing them as you will be pulling branches down and the sides are high relative to the medium height.

Edited by InMyPocket
Fat fingers, small buttons
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2 minutes ago, M Pamplemousse said:

Leave them.....

Thanks. That was my gut feeling too!

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2 minutes ago, InMyPocket said:

If you germinating in te pot you just drol it in.  Takes approx 2-3 day to pop up normally.

 

In future filling the pots more will help when it comes to LSTing them as you will be pulling branches down and the sides are high relative to the medium height.

 

Thanks. Noted for next time.

 

I'll get the scissors and trim the pots down a little once they're ready for some lst 

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Just now, superfruit said:

 

Thanks. Noted for next time.

 

I'll get the scissors and trim the pots down a little once they're ready for some lst 

Or once they pop up if there is room you can fill slightly.  That is if you plan to LST them. It helps a lot btw!

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10 minutes ago, InMyPocket said:

Or once they pop up if there is room you can fill slightly.  That is if you plan to LST them. It helps a lot btw!

Definitely plan on plenty of lst. I'm quite height restricted and I've seen photos of these AKs growing quite tall without!

 

Planning on using some gardening wire (soft stuff) for LST on 2 of them, and being a bit more brave on the third and supercropping it - experiment a little! If 2 survive my first venture I'll be very happy!

 

 

Edited by superfruit

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I would actually top up the pot as the plant grows. This helps keep the plant stocky. 

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4 minutes ago, M Pamplemousse said:

I would actually top up the pot as the plant grows. This helps keep the plant stocky. 

Will do!

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A lot of grow shops don't seem to know or care but I'm pretty sure the 250w setting on dimmable ballasts is for using 250w lamps and will significantly reduce lamp life and efficiency if you are actually dimming a 600w or 400w lamp.. The older lumatek manuals for instance were very clear about that, but newer ones use more ambiguous wording ('make sure ballast wattage matches lamp wattage' where the old manuals said specifically which lamps to use with which settings, ie 600w only for 600w and 660w).

 

Not sure you can get 250w hps lamps that are digi ballast optimized (ie strengthened) however, and using regular/unstrengthened lamps can also cause premature failures, I've had bulbs with elements that have warped from the higher frequencies digiballasts produce, once with a lumatek ballast and philips son t pia the bulb literally cracked, and more worryingly, didn't stop running (just ran super hot and dim until I realised and swapped it out)..

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34 minutes ago, uBercaMeL said:

A lot of grow shops don't seem to know or care but I'm pretty sure the 250w setting on dimmable ballasts is for using 250w lamps and will significantly reduce lamp life and efficiency if you are actually dimming a 600w or 400w lamp.. The older lumatek manuals for instance were very clear about that, but newer ones use more ambiguous wording ('make sure ballast wattage matches lamp wattage' where the old manuals said specifically which lamps to use with which settings, ie 600w only for 600w and 660w).

 

Not sure you can get 250w hps lamps that are digi ballast optimized (ie strengthened) however, and using regular/unstrengthened lamps can also cause premature failures, I've had bulbs with elements that have warped from the higher frequencies digiballasts produce, once with a lumatek ballast and philips son t pia the bulb literally cracked, and more worryingly, didn't stop running (just ran super hot and dim until I realised and swapped it out)..

 

This is definitely news to me, the exact hardware I have is listed below. Would you mind casting an eye over for me please?

 

600w Omega Dual Spectrum, Pro-Par Series HPS Lamp

 

OMEGA Pro+ 600w Dimmable Digital Ballast

 

Would be happy to link but I'm not sure that's allowed here? ebay listing.

 

Full description:

 

 

600w Grow Light Kit OMEGA PRO+ Dimmable Digital Ballast, HPS Dual Spectrum Bulb

"5 YEAR BALLAST GUARANTTEE"

OMEGA PRO+ "SUPER LUMEN" DIMMABLE DIGITAL PRO BALLAST KIT

660w-600w-400w-250w DIMMABLE OPTIONS

NO NEED TO CHANGE THE 600w LAMP ON ANY SETTING!

OMEGA PRO+ Digital Ballast is not the same as any ordinary dimmable ballasts. This software controlled, variable output ballast has been specially designed to give the most selective growers the ultimate versatility and performance from a single lighting system. This super cool, super-efficient, fully adjustable digital ballast will run 660W (super lumen) 600w, 400w and 250w settings and features "Super Lumen Technology" that increases the ballasts output for maximum lamp performance, giving you Monster Yields!

- Reduce the output of your lamp when not so much power is needed. For example, running the 600w lamp you can reduce the output to 250w, 400w or boost it to Super Lumen 660w.

- Boost the output of your lamp using "Super Lumen" feature. This allows the output of the ballast highest rated lamp (600w) to be increased by approximately 10% delivering maximum lamp performance.

KIT INCLUDES:

OMEGA 600w Dimmable Digital Ballast

  • 10% Extra Super Lumen Technology
  • Completely silent operation - Soft Start - No Lamp Flicker
  • 30% more efficient than standard magnetic ballasts.
  • For use with High Pressure Sodium (HPS) & Metal Halide (MH) Lamps
  • 5 YEAR WARRENTY 


600w Omega Dual Spectrum, Pro-Par Series HPS Lamp

  • Dual Spectrum Grow & Flower Lamp
  • 95,000 Lumens, Lifetime: 24,000hrs, E40 Fitting


HPS / MH Reflector Hood, E40 Fitting Ceramic Holder

  • Hammered Dimpled Anodised Aluminium to prevent heat spots.
  • 7 Fold Hood to perfectly reflect light to your plants.
  • 4m heavy duty cable with fitted IEC plug.
  • Size: L.47 x W.47cm (flat dimensions) curved width approx 40cm

 

 

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Hmm, the fact they specify in caps 'NO NEED TO CHANGE THE 600w LAMP ON ANY SETTING' throws me. But then they also can't spell guarantee..

I've just re-read a Lumatek manual that I thought specified matching lamps to wattages very clearly, and I may have misread it. It suggests you can run a 600w dimmed, or a 250w lamp at the 250w setting (but not a 400w lamp). I know running lamps at wattages they weren't designed for definitely reduces efficiency, and causes a change in the spectrum (further reducing PAR), but I can't say it will increase the risk of damage. What I said about non-reinforced lamps is true, however (the higher frequency of digital ballasts warps the metal bracket inside lamps over time) so I'd say it was fairly likely..

Lumatek do a 250w digi-optimised lamp apparently, probably worth the £20 if you intend to run at 250w all the time, if not just for the extra efficiency..

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15 minutes ago, uBercaMeL said:

Hmm, the fact they specify in caps 'NO NEED TO CHANGE THE 600w LAMP ON ANY SETTING' throws me. But then they also can't spell guarantee..

I've just re-read a Lumatek manual that I thought specified matching lamps to wattages very clearly, and I may have misread it. It suggests you can run a 600w dimmed, or a 250w lamp at the 250w setting (but not a 400w lamp). I know running lamps at wattages they weren't designed for definitely reduces efficiency, and causes a change in the spectrum (further reducing PAR), but I can't say it will increase the risk of damage. What I said about non-reinforced lamps is true, however (the higher frequency of digital ballasts warps the metal bracket inside lamps over time) so I'd say it was fairly likely..

Lumatek do a 250w digi-optimised lamp apparently, probably worth the £20 if you intend to run at 250w all the time, if not just for the extra efficiency..

 

I've just read through the manuals too, no mention of matching wattage.

 

Do you know if the 250w lumatek lamp is suitable for veg and flower?

 

Thanks though for bringing to my attention

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