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Auto gorilla

Is this calcium deficiency?

45 posts in this topic

I took my heater out about a year ago....waste of 150w imo.

 

deadly for young uns but once established in the prop and they are a couple of weeks old they can take it in the main system.

 

although I totally agree with stu.... it’s not ideal. 

 

the chiller is the kiddie...but of course this depends on set up


my air pumps are always pushing air in  at 19 - 20c .....for two reasons.

1. It stops the water heating up or cooling down hence no heater and chiller barely kicks in. 

2. it makes sure the air bubbles bursting on the roots are not super hot or super cold. 
 

I do use a stupidly powered air pumps for this tho so this is probably another reason as the shear volume of air I pump through is obscene. 
 

if you were not using the ph perfect nutes I would also have suggested running the PH a little higher for a few days....calcium is best absorbed in hydro above 6.0 so in the past I have let my ph drift to 6.1 to get the extra cal mag absorbed correctly and quickly. 

 

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The reason they don’t want to sell it to you is because they want you to feed incorrectly....I’ll explain. (This is my own thoughts based upon my research and experience.....I strongly suggest you cross reference it and don’t take my ramblings as gospel). (I can send you links to the research papers I use as I’m sure this is within site guidelines and rules as its independent information).

 

When feeding in the water garden there is over feeding, under feeding and what has been coined the luxury zone.

 

the luxury zone is where the plant shows no improvement or detriment.....it’s not causing problems and it ain’t helping either.

 

my thoughts on this are the companies use the stupidly high EC rates as they know the NPK has gone into luxury states and it brings the secondary components into normal levels.....the reason for this is you use more nutes....more money for them. 
also they have to cover a lot of different techniques (my system for example is in hyper aerated state.....so they need to produce a one size fits all product....(they wouldn’t make a lot off me making a specific nute package for my situation). 
 

 

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Watch them rings in the system.

i used to use leaky pipe instead of air stones as the water bubbles like a wee jacuzzi. (Same thing as you have just a lot cheaper - I used  meters of the stuff in the old alien....I may even go back to this once my jap airstones give up the ghost....but those bad boys are good for multiple runs as long as you bleach them) 

its great at first.....after 6 weeks having ANY root product in there they can clog up real quick....just give them a gentle wipe every now and then and they will do the whole cycle ime. 
 

:hippy:

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1 hour ago, stu914 said:

 

18.5c is borderline, I would kick the res temp up a degree or two just to rule this out as being the problem, 20/21 should be sweet.

Have you a rockwool block or just pebbles in the pots?

How much of an air-gap have you between bottom of pots and nutes?

 

 

I worry with the temp being warmer than 20c due to root rot getting a hold you think it can be run safely at upto 21c then? If I set my chiller to 20c it will fluctuate upto 21 and then be brought back down to 20c. 
no I don’t use rockwall I think it was you that’s served me away from it so I’m using clay pebbles. 
air gap wise I would say about 2inch give or take Plus the alien net pots have a raised section in the bottom so they should be fine with that gap defiantly not flooded. 
I’m gonna wait for the calmag to turn up and give them a fresh res with calmag and then see if they improve I don’t want to start changing to many things and they recover because then I won’t know what was wrong so gonna go with one thing at a time I think. 

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Posted (edited)

i set mine at 19 if it helps, and have never had root rot.

They can go to 21/22 but anything like 24 or above is the rot zone.

I stick at 19 because the lower temp means a higher dissolved oxygen content. they have been fine at 19 tho, for the past god knows how many years.

 

Edited by badbillybob
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I wouldn't add anything just yet as you have multiple deficiences showing on the leaves and I'm not convinced the nutes are at fault...

are you able to get some pics of the roots  and pots?

 

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You don’t think it the nutrients missing out on calmag then? Once lights come on I’ll try and get some root shots the inside of the pots I guess you asking for pictures of? 

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Here a couple pictures of the roots they look ok to me slight off white colour but I think the b-52 additive I’m using stains the roots slightly. 
They all look the same could be better I suppose but nothing different to my last couple runs. Maybe I’ll drop out the b-52 large.9A0141E8-BA73-4203-B40A-C26D53153326.jpeglarge.4C4530B0-C4AB-4490-B819-F1AA394BEFDD.jpeg

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19 minutes ago, Auto gorilla said:

Maybe I’ll drop out the b-52

 

See how the roots are coming out of the pot in only 3 or 4 places?

Pretty sure this is part if not all of your problem...usually caused by plants going into the system too early.

 

Where the roots clump together just below the pots is perfect breeding ground for root rot, notice how the clump closest to the camera appears to have

a slight blackish tinge in the centre?  I would investigate that and if necessary dose with neat oxyplus...we can come back to that depending on what you find...

 

If you only have a 2 inch gap then the bulk of the roots are submerged all the time and probably need more DO than you're providing, they're struggling to take up nutes.

Lower the nutes level until only about half that root ball is submerged and this should help.

 

I would mix up a fresh res of just A+B grow 1/2 strength and see how they get on.

 

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@stu914 yeah I see what your talking about and it’s probably abit late to change that now I’m guessing. 
I’ve taken them all out and had a good look at them closely seems to be fine to me I camera is just crappy one from my phone which could be making it look worse than it is. 
ok so I’ll make a fresh load of RO but say use 80 litres rather than 100 so the air gap is larger. Just a+b grow aiming for EC 0.8 I’ve been using silver bullet roots am I still good to be using that with just the a+b? Just drop out the b-52 

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Just now, Auto gorilla said:

Just drop out the b-52 

 

I would only use the A+B for now, leave your chiller set at 19/20c and make a larger air gap, submerge only about 1/2 the root ball, they should be ok

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Well after everyone’s help and speaking with @stu914the girls are looking better today new growth is praying to the light. I emptied the res and refilled with 50 litre RO and 10litre tap water giving me 0.2 base to start with while I wait for the calmag to turn up.  I then added nutrients giving me 0.5 total EC and they seem to be happy again. Also they have a much bigger air gap under the net pots and I’ve added a humidifier bringing the rh up to around 65% fingers crossed they are over there issues now. Thanks all that commented 

large.EE3BF8FC-59FC-4227-95BB-9D42A624FEF0.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Auto gorilla said:

while I wait for the calmag to turn up

 

I would hold off adding anything until you see if they need it or not...really chuffed to see the new growth exploding, hopefully we've nailed the problem...:yep:

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I think adding the small amount of tap water has added something that must of been missing also the bigger air gap is playing a big part I believe. New growth does look lighter in colour but that’s down to the EC being half of what it was last week either way they seem to be happy now. :yep:

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I doubt the addition of tap water has done much, more likely the 'gap' has balanced up feed, water and oxygen round the roots.

Keep an eye on the ec and this will tell you if they need stronger feed or not...early days but it's looking good...:yep:

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