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grobag

To Dry Or Not To Dry?

41 posts in this topic

Na, bubble the lot, not got a screen and the bud is way way dry, very crispy. Just got some bags and a bubbleator and I'd like to get the best results.

The instructions says upto 350g is that both wet and dry?

Edited by 2hi2try

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You could use your 220u bag placed in a bucket to do a dry sift with some of your buds 2h2t. Just make sure the bag is dry before you start (best yield this way) plus you can throw the waste from this into your wet mix. Another thing, I noticed your smallest bag size is 38u so when your making bubble with water and ice anything smaller will be lost in the water if you throw it away. You might want to get another bag (25u) for another grade of hash or you can save the water - let it settle and follow what quitthatjibbajabba did for free. Basically, after collecting from your bags allow the remaining water to stand (try putting in a container where you can see through) and you will see the sediment in the bottom once it builds up (a plastic drinks bottle or a large jar can work well). Siphon the water of the top with a syringe or tube, and pour the remainder through some coffee filters to collect. Good luck!!!

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Oil:

BHO (Butane Honey Oil):

If you decide that you want to oil wash the trim straight away then butane is the best widely available solvent to use for the purest type of oil - honey oil rather than regular oil. For this process the best results are achieved (plus the highest yields) when using dried trim. I still trim the plants from fresh when making BHO but I dry the trim out separately with the bud. This is also the only method in which grinding the trim could be beneficial but I never bother unless processing high quantities at once. I use a coffee pot in which the trim and solvent can steep, unlike the pipe method. Butane is extremely selective with what it extracts from the plant no matter what timescale is used, unlike using alcohols as the solvent (IPA for example) which Ill explain next. Making oil involves dissolving the resin in a liquid solvent before filtering it from the plant matter then evaporating off the solvent again leaving just the cannabis oil. You are therefore getting the resin from within every type of resin gland and getting effectively a higher yield of cannabinoids from the same starting material than when making hash. All you are trying to do with the trim before adding the solvent is to dry it out as much as possible as the moisture content interferes, plus increase the surface area of the trim/bud which will be exposed to the solvent. As you are filtering a liquid from the plant matter rather than particles, you can use a much finer filter. Paper coffee filters are the best for this (I double them up), and they have a 5 micron weave whereas the lowest grade bubble bag is 25 micron and best results are achieved with a larger weave again for dry sift. As a result the most effect way of oiling is to break up the trim enough to expose the greatest surface area, but not too much that it will get through the filter aswell; as it does when ground in a coffee grinder when dry. If grinding then a hand herb-grinder is more than ample.

In General:

Coming back to the original question of whether to dry out the trim or not before you use it, as I have shown, it depends on what you want to make and at what quality. Personally, I mostly either Butane wash straight away or I bubble first then butane wash. I get my dry sift through a little tax by my crystal catcher grinder every time I smoke or grind trim. If oiling straight away then I will dry the trim out first (as I would if dry sifting obviously and IPA washing), but if bubbling then I will just freeze it from fresh then dry it out again afterwards for oiling. Bubbling is the only method with which it is worth using fresh frozen trim.

Its a simple question eh and Ive gone a very long arsed way of answering, but this covers many of the same questions I get asked on a regular basis and thought this post might go a bit of the way to clearing up a few things for some people. Feel free to ask if there is anything you would like me to explain or expand on. That answer your question Shamoomoo?!? :yep: Good luck mate and happy hashing.

Onwards & Upwards

Grobag

:rofl:

I WAS WONDERING WHAT THE PROSESS OF WHAT YOU DO WITH THE BUTANE TO GET THE OIL OUT? THE ONLY WAY I KNOW OF DOING IT IS AS YOU SAY THE PIPE THING, AND SOMEONE WHO COMMENTED WAS TOLD TO GET A SMALLER (25 I THINK) FILTER FOR THE EXTRA BUBBLE HASH BUT IF YOU DON'T SIEVE THE EXTRA BIT OUT WILL IT BE BETTER WHEN IT COMES TO TO OIL ETHER IN MORE OFF IT OR JUST BETTER OR WILL IT NOT MAKE MUCH DIFFERENCE OR ANY??????

IF YOU COULD GET BACK TO ME THEN THAT WOULD BE GREAT

Edited by stonner2k

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not read any ov these post yet ,just read title and SHIT wasnt we all told years ago that the cannaboloyds change composition i.e (phytocannabinoids)when drying and that's when the chemical compounds in trichoms change there cb`1 2s to active receptors that get us highhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. :bong: :bong:

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Yeah but after we collect them we DRY them before pressing

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nice one grobag thanks for the explanation

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I've tried both fresh trim and bone dry trim in the bubble machine, I've found no difference in purity but you get a lot more return with dry trim.

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bit of an odd question, but does anyone think it'd still be worth doing a BHO run on trim that's already been dry ice hashed? (youtube dry ice hash if you haven't seen the thread on it here, they're awesome! :shuriken: )

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I don't have a freezer, so don't have ready access to ice, but I have still managed to make the best hash I've ever had just using (almost) ice cold water!

I turn my fridge right up to 9 and put some bowls/bottles of water in overnight along with my fresh trim.

I don't use screens either, just bung the trim and cold water in a bowl and beat with a whisk. I whisk for a about 20 minutes or so, then back in the fridge to allow the resin to sink. Then I use a fork to carefully lift out the trim which goes back in the fridge for a second run later.

Because I only grow a maximum of two plants at a time, I don't get a lot of hash, but it is very good, and worth the hassle!

Once the resin has sunk, I use a syringe (the large ones you get with inkjet refill kits, also useful for measuring nutes!) to slowly syphon off the water. When most of the water is gone, I gently tilt the bowl, the resin tends to stay where it is as the rest of the water slowly drains off and I use a piece of rolled up tissue to soak it up.

Now I should be left with some very wet hash, which I scrape out with a piece of plastic (old mobile topup cards are good for this) and spread it out on another piece of plastic to dry. I spread it quite thin and leave it somewhere warm and on a slight angle which allows more water to slowly drain. I use more tissue to mop up the drips of water.

After a while, depends how warm it is, it is ready to scrape off the plastic and start squeezing and rolling in your fingers.

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Thanks for the basic breakdown. Great thread !

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