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Found 12 results

  1. Hi all, I wanted to purchase a nice branded, widespread shade with air cooling ability. At the time, I was unable to find anything so I made my own. I've had this for some time, but thought I'd finally share as I've installed some sensors and it's given me the chance to photo the previous work I've done to convert it. Unable to find anything, I decided I would modify my current shade to suit the 1000w double end (DE) light setup. To my surprise, it was surprisingly easy because MOST euro shades I have measured fit inside this unit. As well as recording what I've done, consider this a how-to. Before you say I bought a DE 1000w shade I had one to hand and didn't see the need to buy another shade just to wire it myself. If anyone know's of a decent branded DE shade please share, but for now, here's my how too including sensor installation for retro fitting. First, you'll need; Air cooled shade of your choice - I was extremely happy with the build quality and overall integrity of the SunSystem's shades so grabbed myself the 6 inch setup. Double ended 1000w system - measure the length of the euro shade - ensure it will fit inside. I'm using an Adjustawatt 1000w DE 400v setup. I'm hoping to replace this soon but it shouldn't matter what ballast or bulb you use. Drill / bits, sizing depending on the wire size of your setup Wire cutters Insulation tape Various sized grommets (depending on your setup) A camera - to share with your local uk420 forum Test fit the euro shade into the unit, if the length is measured correctly it will fit inside, open up and support itself within the shade. Without having to modify the end reflectors. If the euroshade does not fit, modify it best you can to be slightly wider than the overall width of the air cooled shade. There will be a ledge inside, this is what the euro shade sits on. You can then best the lamp position into the air cooled lamp, with the shades wings giving the typical V stance, they will be supported. Cutting the reflector material is easy using tin snips. Just be careful with any cut metal and ensure you use needle files to deburr edges and hoovering is a must - try and do metal drilling / filing outside (shed). Additional; I have installed three temperature/humidity sensors and a light sensor into this unit. I'm using a 7 core wire to transfer the signal, which is why I've also included a roof sensor and an external shade sensor. I am measuring inside the shade temperature/humidity to understand the system, not to use as an environmental measure. Canopy height is the main temperature to go by, this will be done separately. As well as lower tent temperature. I am using DHT11 sensors and TS2561 light sensor. Once you've collected your items, take apart fully the air-cooled shade. You'll need to re-wire the ballast to bulb loom and feed it into the light. There may be a hole already, which would save you some drilling time. Ensure when removing part of the shades reflector, you install the suitable grommet to allow for the cable to run. Heat and pressure on the wire will eventually short out. With 400v setups being common with DE units, you don't want this to happen! Use plenty of electrical tape between the wires, I opted for amalgamating tape around the lot at the end. Holes will be required for any sensors you wish to install. Make sure any temperature/humidity sensors are not directly against a surface, the airflow on surfaces is inaccurate as a measurement. 3mm hex pillars are an easy way to do this. I'm unsure the effects of air flow causing temperature variation in this setup, but until someones tried it and proven it's inaccurate then I'm hoping to gather some useful data. Lay the euro reflector down inside the unit, if all is well, it will fit and the sides will hold in place. I've tried different shades, I was unable to find one that didn't fit. Of course, the width of the euro reflector will be important as this will determine the height and central location of the lamp. Just ensure you measure it first; I'm certain most will fit. But check! Once in position, ensure all wiring is tucked out the way of air flow and confirm all wires are still secure. Plan your holes ahead of drilling. The side unit shows the wire for the tent roof sensor, the external shade sensor and the 7 core wire which has the sensor voltage and signals. Always mark up the wires if they use the same colours, I've notes wire colours for connections. I label the sensors, these will be the sensor numbers which will reference the programming code when I install them and begin to data log. Above are showing the grey 3 core wire for top of the tent sensor, 7 core wire and the largest power cable for the lamp. I placed my external shade temperature sensor near the safety catch for when the glass panel is open so I can secure it neatly. I'm sure there are options for shades with DE system's already installed, I've only found cheap units which I wouldn't personally buy. If someone already has an air cooled shade, but purchased a non-air cooled setup I hope this will be useful. The instructions are basic but clear; Be safe protecting any re-soldered wires Ensure wires are supported, not tight and use grommits when going through metal to ensure wires are not cut Do not use crimps with any high voltage wires - my personal opinion Don't coil high voltage cables Use cable ties on the wire inside the unit to ensure they don't get pulled out if knocked externally I'll post some of the data when I have begun to capture it. I'm still finishing off the main data collection system. Photos of the finished unit; Above showing location of the external shade temperature. Directing away from the light, to stop light impacting air values (potentially). There are a million places I would have put the sensor. However, of ease of installation and repeatability, I thought this location was best. Directly facing the lamp at such close contact may give me inaccruate results (unless I use top industry sensors). I'm not light expert, so I'm hoping for some feedback at light degredation at least - even if I'm unable to use as a comparitve value in other situations. The orange wire shown is the additional CFL lighting I have in the corners. White cable is for the corner fans. Showing below is the top air temperature sensor. Feedback is welcome, of course, please be nice, I'm new!
  2. Gents, I have used the standard maxibright magnetic ballast for years, never missed a beat, with a Powerplant Ultra Hexagon reflector. I can't really afford to pay £500 plus on 630W of CMD / CMH, however I am noticing a few Gavitas and Dimlux coming up on Gumtree, Craiglist etc (no doubt as a result of the CMD releases) and I am wondering whether it's a decent swap over my current kit. I'm not particularly disappointed or blown away with the current set-up (I've only recently carted back out one 600w set-up after a 18 months + of growing uner 250w, mainly due to a drop in consumption due to famiyl & work, but things have settled down now and I am running out of weed fast, so back in a 120 tent and 1 x 600w). I am reading that the pro 400v set-ups push out a couple of hundered more Umols, but what is the real world translation of that like? Does it genuinely mean better weed, less issues, faster growing and more yeild (if I can do 2 grows rather than 3 a year that makes a huge difference and pays for itself with leccy etc). Does anyone have any views on whether these digital ballasts are pretty solid in terms of buying 2nd hand as well? Cheers!
  3. So I've been toying with changing my setup slightly, I usually run 4 x 600W in a 2.4 x 2.4 x 2m Darkroom tent but the tent is fucked (not even very old), so I'm thinking that after seeing my friends Green Qube in action that they are far better and far more worth the money and look like they'll last for years and they also do 2.2m and 2.3m high tents so would be more suitable for 1000W lights like Gavitas. The one I'm looking at is GQ150S which is 1.5x3x2.3M so pretty spot on for 2 x 1000W lights So anyway on to lighting I was looking on a site there I won't name names obviously and they are advertising the new Adjusta-Watt e-Lite 1000W 400V which comes with the 1000W Sol Digital Super HPS DE 400V bulb and a double ended Adjusta Wing type shade. Spec wise it has 4 settings 400W, 600W, 1000W and 1100W and PAR value of 2050 umol/m2/s. They say coming soon so not actually available quite yet but at a price off £255 a hell of a lot cheaper than Gavitas . I understand Lumatek are on the verge of releasing their double ended equipment as well, not sure on any prices for them yet. Do you think Gavitas will come down in price because of these? And are Adjusta-Watt a good brand? Seen them about but don't seem well used on here.
  4. Psychotropic day 56 12/12

  5. Psychotropic day 54 12/12

  6. 600w400v

  7. 600w 400v ugorg1

  8. Blues Scrog day 13 12/12 up skirt shot

    From the album UGORG Blues Scrog

  9. Ugorg Blues Scrog day 0 of 12/12

    From the album UGORG Blues Scrog

  10. Ugorg Blues Scrog day 0 of 12/12

    From the album UGORG Blues Scrog