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fatcalyx

ongoing problems with sick plants and enviroment...

26 posts in this topic

perfect night temp for coco would be no lower than 20deg c in my book ,youll soon find out if you wrap the pots in bubblewrap ..a cheap way of solving many a problem ..

the intake thing is to do with allowing cooler fresh air in ..as cooler fresh air is always heavier than warm air as obviously warm air rises ....

you could also cover the soil surface with a bit of bubble wrap for a week as well help cut the cycle of fungus gnats trying to get back to the soil to lay eggs ..

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Now the thing i need your help on is the fact i have noticed that my plants are still drooping in the last 3-4 hours of their day and i cant work out why as the next morning after their 6hrs darkness they are all perked back up and look healthy. But they look like shit for the last few hours. I have just potted up 10 Sour Power OG from karma genetics and put in the environment a day or 2 ago now and these plants don’t droop in the last few hours of the day as you will be able to see in the pictures. Any suggestions on why this is or what is causing it. All plants are in hand watered coco, and under 2 x 400w MH lights with lights on tmeps around 25c-27c.

Plants can only absorb so much light, and that amount varies as the plant grows and there is more foliage to catch it. Think of plants like a counter, once they've reached capacity they reset but it takes them a few hours and as they grow the capacity increases, which is why people tend to increase the wattage of their lamps over the period of the veg cycle until it's on full power for around the first or second week of flower.

I suspect that the plants that are wilting have received their fill of light, they are only small with not much foilage and you've got them under kind of a lot of light - which I suspect coupled with the humidity was your issue with the ceramics too. The other plants that are not wilting will not be as light intolerant as the other plants. I wouldn't even worry about it too much TBH because as the plants grow they'll stop doing it.

This is pretty basic stuff.

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i did think that also syrup but fatcalyx has yellowing starting from low down on the plant as well ,suggesting a cold lock out

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@@vince noir rock n roll star

Yeah man at this time of year chilly roots can catch anyone out - the lower down yellowing also could be down to simply underfeeding, it is a possibility as it may relate to why some plants can tolerate a full light cycle and others cannot?

In fact I am likely to believe this as having read through fatcalyxs posts he's using magne cal in a 0.8 ec hard water area, which is a big no no and he says that the E.C isn't very high anyway as he hasn't got much room for nutrients. I would say the issue is that the calcium to magnesium ratio of his water is way off for plants to be able to use with any efficiency magne cal ontop of this just throws it out even more. Ontop of that the E.C isn't very high (guess), so there probably isn't enough of the other elements to compensate for such high levels of Ca and Mg resulting, never mind enough to feed the plants. Also explains why some plants are effected more than others, due to differing wants in feeds.

E2A

@@fatcalyx

You've told us a lot about your environment, what are you feeding them and at what E.C?

Edited by Golden Syrup
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good call sir

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@@vince noir rock n roll star

Cheers dude it can be a minefield with water quality and nutrients I have learned, because the ratio to calcium to magnesium in the water plays a huge role. The softer the water, the lower you can get away with running the E.C, where as with hard water I would recommend running a bit higher than in soft. Which is why it can be such a headache when reading recommendations online, because your 1.2 ec might be different in elemental make up than my 1.2 ec, to get the same effect and have the same nutrients in ratio for proper growth I might have to run at 1.4 for example.

Head ache :fear:lol

E2A

It's double the headache in coco due to it's love of calcium and magnesium

Edited by Golden Syrup
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award winning idea no 3001 from the vince says high mind ....heated pots ..temp controlled pots ..why has noone thought of this ..???

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yup you seem to be making a lot of sense both @@vince noir rock n roll star and @@Golden Syrup, let’s talk water...

Ever since I started growing at home I have had problems keeping my plants green but it usually only makes a real difference when past the 3rd week of flower. In veg I am usually fine with plants staying green with my usual veg feeding.

My background ec is bounces between 0.8 - 0.9.

In veg I usually use super thrive at 0.125ml per/L, hydro silicon 0.5ml/L, magne cal 0.5ml pre/L, regenaroot 0.5ml Per/L and Dutch pro A + B hydro/coco grow at 1ml per/L each at a pH of between 5.8 -6.1 and an EC of 1.2 -1.3. I might have to dilute the solution with a L of plain tap water if it is at 1.4 which it sometimes comes out as.

When in flower I don’t like going over 1.8 anymore as I find I just end out burning them and not gaining back any of the lost colour. I’ve experimented with slightly different pH to see if it made much difference but 5.8 - 6.1 worked best. I’ve used 0,25ml of veg A+B along with the A+B bloom and Buddha’s tree PK 9-18. I’ve even used nitrogen supplements but it just won’t regain colour once it’s been lost when in flower. The yellowing also is harder to control when I don’t use the magne cal I’ve noticed before.

I have grown at other addresses with pretty much the same nutes but I have more room for base nutes and so forth and I can go a whole cycle without ever getting a yellow leaf. When a pal of mine works abroad for sometime half of the year I will look after his plants when he is away with the same nutes but with a background EC of 0.4 and I can go from clone to finished bud at his with no problem.

And another thing find is that I never get a clean white ash with my end product no matter how long I flush for. Whereas my pals get it with the same nutes and cuts...

I don’t have room for an RO unit either

Cheers for your help once again guys

FC

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That's a very low base nutrient amount, is Dutch pro highly concentrated?

My ec fluctuates from as low as 0.2ec upto 0.7ec, even when the background ec is low I don't need cal mag.

Yellowing in flower if progressive Could be switching to bloom nutrient to early, I've fed grow upto week 3 with some varieties.

Black ash is usually caused by over fert, you can not flush excesses of nutrient that built the flowers, even if you flush for weeks if it's been over fed through flower it'll never loose that even if grown organically.

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The reason for your black ash is all that silicon your adding it is only used to combat high temps like in OZ they use it there also super thrive is for stress releaf and for when they ill or transplanting to combat stress.

from the top of my head Cal mag is a once only at start of flowering but only if deciency signs call 4 it.

I'm thinking roots like vince says ut I'm thinking over watered inducing root rot (cud b caused by low temps) but defo cut all that excess out not needed.

All The Best

....Drops :yinyang:

P.S. growers far better than me repeatedly told me K.I.S.S Keep It Simple Stoner so forget all the additives and go back to simple basics. check the roots see if they are rotten slimey eetc. if so ask for advise n good luck fella

Edited by drops boms
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If you stand a bucket of water in your 22c room check the temp of if it and watch it fall to well below 20c. The same will be happening to your pots of coco and therefore causing cold as vinny said. It is so simple for folk to not realise that medium gets a lot colder than air temp, the top of the plant will stand lower temps but the rootball will not. Cheers.

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