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Found 9 results

  1. Right as promised over in my grow diary here's a post about my Inkbird environment controllers. I have the IHC-200 WiFi humidity controller and the ITC-308 WiFi thermostat, I managed to get these for a steal at 50% off but full retail price these go for ~£100 which makes them significantly more affordable than many other environment controllers on the market. I'm using these devices to control my VPD and I have to say I'm extremely impressed. Both my temps and humidity have been extremely stable. Thanks to these devices not only are my temp and humidity perfectly stable, but both are being kept in the perfect range in relation to eachother, for optimal VPD. So a little bit about how these work. Each controller has a probe sensor and 2 power outlets, one for a device to increase humidity or temp and one for a device to decrease humidity or temp respectively, depending on what you have each controller set to they'll automatically switch between the increase/decrease devices to keep the temperature and humidity within the desired range. For example, for the humidity controller you could have a humidifier and additional extraction or a dehumidifier pugged in (or both with an extension.) When the humidity is too low it will run the humidifier until humidity hits the desired range then it will stop running the humidifier. If humidity starts to creep up it will run the additional extraction / dehumidifier until humidity is back where you want it. The same applies to the thermostat. Each device is only run when it is needed. There are basic versions of these controllers that don't have WiFi and for the budget conscious or non technical people they're potentially a good option, although don't think they'd offer the same level of precision when it comes to controlling your environment. But the WiFi version has an app that can be installed on a smartphone that's absolutely fantastic. The app itself allows you to remotely monitor and control both controllers independently from anywhere you have an internet connection. Which is a great feature in and of itself. However more importantly it has an automation feature that allows you to create rules for each device that can be triggered from the status of the other device or some other external factor. What follows is a short guide as to how I have these devices setup and how I created rules that will trigger and adjust each device as my environment shifts the devices will adapt to compensate, keeping my VPD in the ideal range constantly. Sensor placement. I placed my sensors at canopy level and far enough away from my heater and humidifier so that I'm getting an average reading rather than over indexing on any one reading. Obviously you know your grow space so make sure you're placing your probes in an appropriate location and that you're getting a good reading. The trickiest part of the setup was getting the devices to register on my WiFi but after a couple of attempts we were in business. To be fair the app does a brilliant job of guiding you through the process and it's pretty straightforward. Once they are connected and registered on your network you'll see each device listed in the app. From here you can manually set the desired value for each device. I personally use temperature to drive my humidity and set the temperature value to 24.5c and my temperature range pretty much fluctuates between 24-25c consistently. On the odd occasion I have seen it as high as 27 and as low as 22. But I haven't seen those extremes for weeks now, not since I was initially dialing in the setup. Now everything is dialed in though it's extremely stable indeed. Creating Automation Rules Ok so to create a rule firstly we select the smart option at the bottom of the screen. Next select the automation tab. On my screen you can see all my veg rules in green. Obviously the first time you see this screen it will be empty and rules will be added in the order you create them. To create a rule select the blue "+" icon in the top left. You'll then be presented with a screen that allows you to select what type of trigger condition you want to set. Because I want the devices to balance each other I chose the "when device changes status" option. My temperature like many of you, I'm guessing, tends to be far more stable than my humidity. So I opted to have my temperature value drive my humidity value. So on the next screen we select our thermostat. (ITC-308-WIFI) Here we're are presented with a list of options. I have used the "current temperature" parameter. Each rule I have created is set at 1c increments. I also use the "<" (less than) condition I originally set this to "=" but as soon as the temp shifted by 0.1c the rule would cease to apply so using "less than" at 1c increments covers the entire range of decimals. Select the upper limit of the temp range you want to cover. On the next screen we need to select what we want to happen when those conditions are met. In this instance we want to run our humidity controller so select "run device" Now select the humidity controller (IHC-200-WIFI) Next we want to select what we want the humidity setting to be, so select the "Setting Humidity" option. Use the slider to get in the right range if you want to be really precise you can use the + and - icons to make fine adjustments. Here you'll want to refer to a VPD chart to select a humidity value that's appropriate for the temperature threshold you have selected for this particular rule. The rule we are creating is for flower so I have used the appropriate settings assuming a -1c leaf temp offset, these values will give us a RH of 51% between 24-25c On the last screen you get a summary to review before saving and activating the rule. So for this example we are using <25c as our threshold temp. So to recap what we have said to the app is "if the current temp on our thermostat is <25c then set our humidity to 51%" now where this gets really interesting is that you can stack the rules up so if I set a <26c rule for 53% humidity we have now told the app 2 things: "if the current temp on our thermostat is <26c then set our humidity to 53%, unless the current temperature on our thermostat is <25c then set our humidity to 51%" You can then add additional rules for <24c etc etc and you continue to stack these rules one on top of the other until you cover your entire temp range and a couple of c either side just in case. There's a whole heap of other options I'm yet to explore with this but just this functionality alone for the price is pretty fantastic. Yes there's quite a bit of setup involved but once it's done and your rules are saved you never have to look at it again other than activating or deactivating the rules for the various growth stages. At the moment I only have a complete set of rules for veg setup. By the time I flip I will have created a full set of new rules for optimal flower VPD. You can colour code the rules so you can easily see at a glance which rules are for which stage my and you can activate and deactivate any given rule using a toggle. So when I need to, I can just switch between different rule sets easily and there's no need to recreate rules from scratch all the time. If people find this post useful I might explore some of the other features in the app and make additional posts over time. Keep it green -NezA
  2. Have just finished building a raspberry pi based grow room controller if anyone is interested Was fairly cheap and is set up to monitor Temp/Humidity and Water level...it then switches intake fan or heater to maintain chosen temp. Decided not to switch grow light via pi just now as i wanna test the system for reliability..but yup can do LEDs or HPS(via contactor). Its been in service two days so far and is working sweet. Im happy to help anyone doing a similar thing..can modify for any setup PH and EC monitor to follow..... Temp/Hum sensor - DHT22 Water level sensor - Ultrasonic range finder Fan/heater switching - 4 gang 230v 10a relay board Node-Red automation software. Pi 3+
  3. Hi all, I've been looking from the distance for a while now and thought it's finally my time to join this community and contribute. I'm a qualified mechanical & electronic engineer. I'm finding being able to use engineering disciplines to reduce process variation has really been a great challenge! I'll be asking lots of questions as I have a few concepts and theories I'd like peoples help on. I'm spending a lot of time using Arduino's to automate data capture and also my own feed/DTW setup. Want to thank everyone who comments here because I really have been able to learn a huge amount, based off peoples experience. Thanks MrE
  4. demo dashboard

    From the album Gsp1ce

  5. node red flow

    From the album Gsp1ce

  6. From the album Gsp1ce

    It also graphs temp/humidity and intake fan/heater runtime.
  7. Build.jpg

    From the album Gsp1ce

    creating the mk1 grow room monitor/controller.
  8. Mk1 control.jpg

    From the album Gsp1ce

    pi 3, couple of sensors, relay board and some tupperware. Used Node-Red to make it work.
  9. Hi folks, I'm back again after a long hiatus and wouldn't you know, when I switched on my main lights using my DIY contactor half the blasted lights wouldn't work! If you recall I used a couple of contactors in my box, one simply on a time switch and the other with an additional on-delay relay and a RF thermostat that would switch off half the lamps when the grow room got too hot and switch them back on once it had cooled down, with the delay relay to guarantee there was a suitable delay so they weren't cycling every few minutes. It seems that at some point the RF thermostat decided it didn't want to talk to its controller on the box anymore so the on/off signal either wasn't getting sent or wasn't being received. After much fiddling, swearing and gnashing of teeth I decided that the Danfoss RF thermostat and relay was buggered and a replacement would have to be found. I was loathe to buy the same kit again once it had been proven to be unreliable (and they aren't that cheap either) I was about to run a cable through the wall of the grow room and put a bog standard mechanical thermostat inside when I remembered seeing there was a new generation of smart thermostats out there, so before getting out the drill and making holes I decided to do a little research to see if an alternative idea presented itself. Smart thermostats were a dead end, £200+ for a thermostat, you're F***ing kidding, apparently not. So I went digging around for other alternatives and discovered Sonoff and a big 1000w lightbulb appeared above my head! The basic Sonoff is around £6 and it's a pretty amazing bit of kit for the money, it's a WiFi enabled switch you can control with your phone or tablet. You can also set it to turn on and off at a specific time and it'll switch up to 10 amps which is adequate for fans etc but you'll still need contactors if you're switching HID lamps on and off. The next model up is a TH10/TH16 which has two relays that can switch 2 devices of up to 10 or 16 amps each respectively. But that's not all because the "TH" stands for temperature and humidity, at which point I was getting tumescent! For the princely sum of around £20 (including the sensor!) you can get a WiFi enabled switch that'll automatically switch devices on or off at specific temperatures or humidity levels, with manual override via your phone or tablet from anywhere and you can also monitor the temperature/humidity. If that wasn't good enough you can use the temp/humidity readings from one switch to activate another or several elsewhere as they can talk to each other. They'll even work with those newfangled things you can talk to Google Home and Amazon Echo. They even do a 4 channel WiFi enabled switch that'll fit on a DIN rail! The only downside is that the switches communicate via the cloud so you need to be connected to the internet. The local timings and temperature triggers will still work if you loose connection to the internet but the ability for you to manually control them from your phone or tablet or for one switch to trigger another is also disabled. So if I wanted one switch to monitor the temperature and another to switch off one or more of the lights when the temperature limit was exceeded using a second switch it wouldn't work if the internet wasn't connected. However it's a problem that you can fix, although a bit of mucking about is required to upgrade the standard firmware, fortunately it's well documented and although I've never attempted anything like it before I reckon it's doable even for a numpty like me and even if I bugger it up completely I've only lost £6. There are several custom firmwares available but after reading up on it I've decided to use the Sonoff-Tasmota firmware by arendst available from GitHub. As I'm on Macs I'm going to try and use PlatformIO for the actual firmware hack of the switches. Then the freaking wheels fell of the bus! The software backend to control the switches is a freaking nightmare on acid! I guess it didn't help that everyone else seem to be running it on a RaspberryPI and I chose to try and get it working on a Mac Mini. To begin with that wasn't too bad, I downloaded and installed Python and then the most comprehensive looking home automation server package I could find Home Assistant, I even got it running and installed an API to give me a running hyperlocal weather forecast. Suffice it to say I was well beyond the six or so UNIX shell commands I could remember how to use at that point. For one moment I thought I was done... Okay Yaml (the language the configuration files are written in) was a royal pain in the ass but I'd got it to run an API so I'd figure out how to do stuff eventually, then I peered into the abyss, all this shit was just the front end, the backend MQTT, remote access, security and way down there far away in the distance... automation. At which point I cried like a little girl and as it was just after 4am decided to go to bed and get a couple of hours sleep. In the morning (roughly 2 hours later) everything was clear, I'm going to use the switches on the eWelink software on the cloud and as I've ordered a few extra switches spend most likely the rest of my life fucking about with the spares trying to get them working on my home network. So is there anyone else out there who's into this shit? I'd greatly appreciate some help