I've realised that my RH, just in a random room, tends to ride the temp's (F) by 20 up. So, eg: Temp = 55F? RH = 75%. Temp drops to 45F? RH will drop to 65% (And I'll die of fucking cold!) Now, forgive me, I really need treating like a five year old here. This stuff's all brand new to me, and doing my head in. I'm taking tiny steps. But; On this basis, plants liking, say, 70F, in the tent? Looks like the RH will be 90% in there. And that's just based on the model of my kitchen. What, in gods name, will happen to the RH, once I throw warm, evaporating water to that environment, whilst all enclosed inside a close fitting tent? Thanks. This is 'All I need to know', for the moment, by the way. Then, like a thoughtful child, I can give the answer some deep thought. Before, inevitably, coming back with Another question to try the patience of a saint!

Hi was planning to build a 6 bucket rdwc using heavy duty storage boxes. Going with 40mm pipe and connectors. Done a test buckets with the 40mm tank connector and was leaking between the rubber seal and side wall. I used a 51mm hole saw but was wondering if this is slightly to big and should have a used a 48mm for the holes? Holes have been deburred also so nice smooth surface for the washer any help will be appreciated.

Looking for some advice on autos. First time growing autos and I've got them on 20/4 lighting in a dwc system with 2 led lights all same strain, sweet mango auto, 4 plants in a row. So middle right is well under way budding looking nice, far right looks behind in development/flowering stage, middle left looks even further behind and far left even further behind. Is it normal they are at different stages of flower? Basically just making sure the ones I suspect are behind in the flowering stage and not fucked up some how, like they have established bud sites but are producing more bud sites. I'll add pics of each one to show what I mean. FYI don't judge how bushy they are, had mad root rot and had to cut all the roots off just before flower and was scared to stress them even more. Thanks in advance

Evening all I’m after some advice please, anyone who has experience in dwc. I moved my pair of seedlings into there main system as the diy starter box I made was getting abit warm. My main system has chiller plumbed into it, Temp is set to 20c on the chiller so temps fluctuate between 19.7-20.7 I think I left two much of a air gap between water line and bottom of net pots, the roots are looking shrivelled up and dark coloured above water line below water like they are bright white and look thick and healthy. Is this something to be worried about or normal? Couple pictures not the best quality sorry. I have topped up the res so the roots are further covered now. Just panicking as it’s my first time dwc/hydro. Thanks in advance.

Hello everyone, thought I'd introduce myself and get involved by posting a question I can't seem to find a definitive answer for, hence my reason to join the forum. Is there a formula for never having to empty the DWC bucket? As we top off the bucket throughout the week with ph water, when it comes time to feed again could we calculate what ppm was in bucket and find how many ML of solution we need to bring it up to desired ppm again? Also would it be possible to make a concentrate of solution, so we only need to add water to bucket, add correct amount of concentrate solution then pH.? Is there any info on making a concentrate of nutrients, I'd love to read it. It would definitely be beneficial to have a veg and bloom concentrate at hand, I'm looking to make life easier. This could also make life easier for autopots which us another option I'm looking at. Thanks in advance, look forward to learning here. Take it easy

Evening all I’m after some help as I’m lost and don’t really know what to do I didn’t want to high jack @candybuddy post so have started my own. I’ve got two girls in Dwc oxypot xl Using RO water EC0 sensi grow a and b voodoo juice b-52 Chiller is keeping res at 19c res is sitting at 0.6EC and girls look happy and are growing quickly but the roots just look a right mess. What could I do to resolve the issue or should I not worry about them there is no funny smells or anything YET. Should I ditch the additives and make a fresh res with silver bullet roots as I have it sitting here. A couple pictures of the mess

I will probably be shot down for this but i will ask anyway and i apologize before hand. According to this study, it is possible to do a full grow without changing the reservoir and avoid any kind of problem with nutrient imbalances and pathogens by having cultures of beneficial bacteria, fungi and mycorrhizae that are supposed to regulate the rootzone. Plenty of testimonies online of people sharing their experiences doing a full run with only one change, or no changes at all, without having any problems. My res would be a 70L capacity with only 50L of liquid held (after insertion of net cup). Theoretically that should be enough to veg a plant for 15-30 days. Then i would be required to do a change as we go into flower and im adding different nutrients. Anyone with experience in No res change DWC grows? or only 1 change (from veg to flower)? do i drain the mix down to 1/4 left and fill it with a freshly made up one? what happens to the beneficial microbiome? or the root stimulants lost? I fully understand the concept of keeping a stable pH and temperature and what the fluctuation of ppm means and how to proceed based on those readings. I also understand the importance of replicating the natural environment of a rootzone. How do you top up the res whilst progressing through the grow schedule provided by the nutrient company? Should i just measure and mix nutrients based on how much water im adding back? For example, if my res is 50L and i'm missing 10 due to natural causes (evaporation, transpiration etc), do i make a 10L mix and add that to the existing nutrient mix inside the reservoir? What happens in case the grow schedule provided, tells me to use an extra product like a hormone or some other additive, do i measure that additive based on how much water i am adding back to the mix? or do i make a mix based on my total res volume (not 70L capacity but 50L of actual mix)? The study i linked above is referring to "Mass Balance" , if it is not in the water it is inside the plant, indicating that there is no such thing as "the plant takes some and leaves some", dropping of EC (or PPM) hours after feed is normal as the elements you added to the water are actively uptaken by the plant. Its when we keep "stabilising" that value, that we find the plants complaining about something going wrong. Do i make a mix once weekly based on how much water i am missing and then just top up with pHed water until the next weeks feed mix? A visualisation of that would be, feed on Sunday, then top up pHed water during the week, until next Sunday where I make a new nutrient mix (with say 1 extra additive) based on how much water i am adding back to the mix. Does that sound correct? Do you use products like Hydroguard or other similar US sourced products? What could be the best alternatives in the UK? Products like Orca and Great White powder (using either or, not both) are advertised to be providing a wide range of beneficial microorganisms, which (based on the study i linked above), if in abundance, should provide no suitable environment for pathogens. How would you go about maintaining that microbiome on the clay balls but also inside the reservoir? do i have to actively keep adding them to the mix until a couple weeks before flush? I am planning on running my very first ever DWC grow and i am trying to learn as much as i can before i begin buying parts. I'm not keen on shooting myself in the foot as i've done in the past, so "locking" myself out of certain ways because of choice of equipment would not be ideal, but i can see it happening. If there is no way of growing with minimal water res changes i would then go for smaller buckets, as i can have multiple of them and the frequent change of water won't be as expensive as the volume wont be as big. I have a very inquisitive personality (my wife calls it obsessive) i would like to understand why i am doing something, so if you have any knowledge to share, please do so. Thanks for any knowledge in advance, and again, im not being ignorant, just inquisitive. ^_^

Hi All, so i guess i better start with a little back story to my current situation! Ive been growing for awhile and have used the same setup now for quite some time, MH for Veg and HPS for flower. I'd been considering upgrading to LED for awhile and have been following folks on here to see how they have been getting on. I decided to get a Scopex 900 when i sore they were available at just under 600 quid from DIYLED, a proper bargain by anyones terms! Now im in a 1.2m square tent (upgrading to 1.5m planned for my next round) so i new that the light was gunna be more than i needed for this round. So i decided to start things off the way i always do under a CFL to start,, then once potted and onto the wilma under a 250w MH. All was going well, ladies were topped and all 4 were looking grand, lush health new growth and no signs of anything but what was looking to be a outstanding round. So with everything running smoothly and the ladies looking in good shape (just shy of 7 weeks from seed) i decided to break out the LED and see what all the chat was about. This unfortunately this was the start of everything going very wonky and was just over two weeks ago now. First issue was temps, which i think may have cause a bit of shock as at one point they dipped to 19 for a short period. However i managed to get temps to sit between 23 and 29 with lights on and off for the following week or so then refined that range further. Second issue was the fact id been running a 24hr on veg, with MH this was ok but i think the 350w of LED was too much to run for 24hr straight so introduced a 20/4 cycle. Third issue was EC,, now at first i thought i had over fed cos i got what looked like burnt tips, EC was at 0.9 so i dropped it down a couple of points,, but very quickly realised that i had a falling EC ( and the ladies looked hungry) and upped my EC every day/every other as the RES EC just kept on falling after 12hrs or so,, this went on for 9 days, until i hit a RES EC of 1.9. By this time i thought it best to do a fresh RES as all this topping up is never a good idea for obvious reasons. So 4 days ago i did a fresh RES at 1.8 EC. And within 12hrs the opposite started to happen,,, the EC had risen 1.9! So over the last three days ive been going in revers,, every time checking the EC to find that it has climbed back up and then me lowing the EC by adding fresh RO,, until this morning when ive knocked it all the way down to 1.0. Suffice to say the ladies are not happy,, i dont know if one of them is gunna be recoverable and over the last 72hrs another one is looking proper sick. I think they have lock out,, but not sure what else i can do. I also think there is an underlying deficiency which is why i cant nail my EC. Ive suspected it was a MAG issue and have tried some foiler feeding a couple of times but to no effect. I havent wanted to introduce anything else feed wise into the RES as the rising/falling issue has not been solved. Sooooooooo, here are the details and some pics (taken 2 days ago) of my set up to provide a little more clarity to anyone reading. I will add close up pics from today as things are looking worse. This LED malarky has been a steep re-learning curve to say the least but with my environment now steady with temps between 23.5 and 28.5, EC @ 1.0 i dont know how else to combat the lock out/deficiency issue thats now causing havoc. Wilma 4 pot hybrid dripper + DWC. (decent roots in the res for all but the sickest looking lady) Drippers are on for 15mins 4 times during the light cycle. Advanced nuets A & B with RO water, system is chilled with water temps steadily between 20 & 21. A little silver bullet added to prevent pathogens. Scopex 900 running @ 360w hung at aprox 80cm above canopy in a 1.2m sq tent, 3 fans internally circulating the air + temp controlled extraction. Air temps are between 25-28 lights on and 23.5-26 lights off.

Hi guys looking for some net pot help. either going with 96l wham heavy duty storage or the 150l model. 2 plants to a bucket. Planning on 4 inch rocwools as i have loads about. Any advice on net pot choice ? Guessing something with a bigger lip is better ? Any one recommend a size and brand? cheers in advance

ITMA (see YT vid below) There is various advice for cleaning hydroponic systems on various websites. I've found several posts on here that also mention cleaning methods but didn't find a dedicated thread - so here's one Now that I have finished a grow in my IWS Pro kit, I need to clean it. So far I have: Drained the nutes out. Filled with plain tap water and left running for a few days (I couldn't do a clean right then due to a mini-crisis). Used an old washing-up brush to do an initial scrub of res,, brain pot and pots. Drained system. Used watering can to add water as I scrubbed the brain pot and pots again. pumped res., brain pot and pots as dry as I could with hand pump. Filled system with ~150lt of tap water and added ~500ml of thick Domestos. That has been circulating for about 7 hours now. I'll clean the net pots, pot covers and air stones separately. My questions are: Did I use enough bleach? I've seen mention of 10ml/100ml ratio (1/10) - 1.5lt bleach to 150lt water. I have enough foam already How long to run the system for with the bleach solution? What else ought I do before using the system again? Tagging the experts - @badbillybob, @stu914 and @zen-ken All comments, suggestions and recommendations welcome.

The first leaves of my plants are dying off and the set above them are showing some spots. I’ve looked at all the diagnosing pics but can’t make my mind up what it is. I did have a few ph issues early on if that could be the cause? New growth looks ok (i think)

Hi all, another noob question. I have a few leaves on my 3 week old girls that appear mottled. I know that new leaves can look a bit yellow to start but I thought I’d just check incase. Tia

Hi all, I did my first res change yesterday in the dwcs, the water went in at 5.8, checked this morning and it was back upto 7.5 so I lowered it back to 5.8. 1 hour later its back upto 6.7. Clay pebbles were soaked and rinsed twice in 5.5 over 24 hours. Is it possible that I am airating the water too vigorously? currntly running at 0.6ec with: dutch pro silica - 0.1ml p/l Silver bullet - 1ml p/l dutch pro grow a+b 0.2ml p/l of each dutch pro grow PH down I don’t mind keep lowering it but is it normal for it to rapidly rise so fast? How often do you dwc guys have to adjust PH? Tia

Hi all, I moved my seedlings into the DWCs yesterday so I didn’t have to keep moving them around incase I damaged the roots. I have the aquarium heaters on (tents in garage) and the airstones running however the pots are NOT in the water. Condensation is keeping the net pots damp so I haven’t needed to water but as I’m only using water and nothing else I cant keep the PH below 7/7.5. The seedlings still have their cotyledons and look happy but I’m worried about the PH killing them off. When I do start to add nutrients will this help to keep the PH stable and should I take any action now. I dont want to keep messing around with them if I don’t have to. Thanks in advance.

Day 10 from first true leaves. Got a think different seed from 2 years ago, didn't expect it to grow as its old but it has. I've got it in a started plug from root it. It came out nicely and is now on the second week from first true leaves which showed up on the 1rst January. How is it doing? I'm using masterblend, calcium nitrate and magnesium sulphate and some benifcial bacteria Mycorrhizal inoculant. TNC Mycorr hydro is the name of it. It done wanders for my other herbs like basil In dwc. The roots have started growing very fast. Ph is at 5.9 at the moment. And around 1000 ppm but I do have a cheap tds metre so not sure on accuracy. My water is between 200 to 300 out of the tap. I leave it for 24 hours to evapourate most of the chlorine before I use it. I mix masterblend first then magnesium sulphate then calcium nitrate. My tent stays around 24°C Which I read maybe a little high but it is stable. I did have a very weak nutrient water at first, I'm now following the table I have put up which is grams per litre of water. I am using week 1 at the moment, sorry for my hand writing. Anyone see if I'm doing anything wrong or a better guide for masterblend for a grow such as this.

Evening all, My main grow is currently suffering. LED Qube 1.4m x 1.4m Tent Logic 900 ( 3 x Logic 300 ) - All three Logics are set at 50% @ 20 inches Currently Flowering - 2 x San Bacio Gelato & 2 x L.A Gelato Flipped DWC - 14th Nov 2020. Currently on day 40 of flower. Nutes - Current Culture - Bloom A&B, CocoCal, UC Roots & Bud Booster mid - EC 0.9. Temps - 20°c lights off - 27°c lights on - RH 45 - 60% - with Dehumidifier running when RH rises. Everything has been running smoothly in my DWC setup until about a week ago. I noticed my ppm meter was set to ppm 700 instead of 500 so I've been underfeeding. I saw 2 plants developing brown spots and put it down to underfeeding and it being the start of week 5 flower - possible looking mag def due to low phosphorous. I increased the feed and bud booster to EC 1.0. EC was dropping over the next few days so everything seemed fine. PH was in check ranging from 5.5 - 6.2. Looking back now the PH was constantly dropping due to the low feed and since increasing the EC PH has stabilised. Noticed the leaves curling inwards and thought the fresh res change would resolve it or maybe I'd added too much bud booster. Done a fresh res change last night with a lower EC 0.9 with less bud booster. Checked again tonight and all leaves seem to be curling inwards. I can't see any pests and have sticky traps up that are fairly clean. I've got 4 weeks remaining and was wondering if there's anything i can do to fix this? Any help appreciated. Pics to follow shortly!

Hi aye everyone. im back with a totally new adventure. This time im back to growing in a tent , a new one. Its a green qube gq120, and i have to say, after years of so so tents its great to get a hold of a really good one. This one has thich solid poles, weighs a ton in the box, and solid zips, thick material and a viewing window. Its the bollox, truly.....if you're looking for a good tent, buy one. As well as a new tent , ive also got my hands on a couple of LED boards. These are loaners from a mate, and are brighter than the brightest star in the galaxy They are from INvisible sun, one is sporting lm561c chips, and the new one has the Lm301h, with extra far red and deep reds. Im trying them out to see if i want to go full on LED in the big room, and to see if i think its gonna be possible to do the kilo plant with LEDs. These will let me know, i reckon, i will see how they do. They are well made, and are in 3000k, so should be good for bloom. These are getting grown in dwc buckets, the smaller 37 litre boxes, with a small air pump and a single golf ball airstone per tote. nutrients are IOnic, grow and bloom, il try the roots axcellerator in a side to side, to see if it does anything. also got canna cal mag and pk, but i dont think ill use it. strains are white widow xxl auto from Dinafem, and critical + automatic from Dinafem. i will get some pics up when the seeds are cracked etc, cheers. I decided to go with autos, because i havnt done an auto grow for years, and being in a shed, i thought it would be a good idea to keep the temps up in winter. Beans have been cracked, tent has been put up and buckets are waiting in anticipation. Should be good fun,

Quarantine grow of OG Kush and Gorilla Setup : 3.3'x3.3' grow tent 4'' Fan and carbon filter 300W of VERO29 DIY COB LED SCROG Net Nutes Greenleaf Megacrop Greenleaf CalMag Greenleaf Bud Explosion Mykos extreme bennies Had a rough start, my cheap PH pen broke the day I made my reservoir which resulted in my seedling being in 5.0 PH solution. Getting a new pen was pretty slow because of COVID19. The poor babies mutates and looked like shit. After 5 days of being in the corrected reservoir they look much better but are pretty beat up. The sativa phenos of OG Kush are looking pretty bad. Day 20 Of OG Kush Day 19 of GG4 Day 15 of Gorilla The GG4 is much bigger than the others and I'll try my best to train it to be even with the rest of the canopy. In red -OG Kush Sativa pheno In Green -OG Kush Indica pheno In purple -GG4 clone OG Kush Sativa phenos looking beat up 1/2 The other 2/2, looks fried, will it ever recover? OG Kush Indica pheno 3/3 OG Kush Indica pheno 2/3 OG Kush Indica pheno 1/3 @Dinafem-Mark

hi guys just looking to hear from anyone growing in deep water culture, about the additives you put in your water, any setup tips and just any tips in general, basically just looking for as much info as possible, if you could try and keep it simple for my baked brain that would be great, thanks in advance

When growing cannabis in hydro (RDWC), does it matter if the air temperature surround the leaves/stem/buds is high (e.g. 22-35 degrees C), if the roots are bathed in chilled water (at 19-20 degrees) constantly? I am starting a hydro attic grow soon, and my attic gets quite hot. However, I have a hydro water chiller that can keep the water at a constant temperature of my liking, and I have plenty of circulation fans. I can also, regularly mist the leaves of the plant if needed. However, is there any point at all in starting an attic grow if I can only control the temperature of the water reservoir?

hHi, i usually run a sterile system, but lately ive been considering running some form of mycorrizal innoculant, such as TNC MYcorr hydro. My latest grow has got off to a piss poor start, due to too high temps in the room, and me not turning the lights down to keep them lower. i eventually did, but not before the damage was done. this resulted in higher water temps, as my chiller couldnt keep the water cool enough, it was over 24 degrees, which caused really poor root growth in some plants, and some staining, but no slime on the root. i usually have a nice big healthy rootball, but this time, its really poor. some plant roots look ok, others look really poor, little development of the root system etc Anyway, the point im getting to is root innoculants. Has anyone used the TNC one in dwc or rdwc (im thinking ahead here, for the next grow). im really wary but it says it has been developed specifically for dwc, flood n drain and recirc systems.. anyone used it? notice any difference? cheers