Jump to content

Combatting Leaf Spot Fungal Infection.


eri

Recommended Posts

Ok so it looked like the Pirhana (Advanced nutrients) worked for a few days then I checked out my plants this morning and LSF had come back for revenge :wassnnme: Damn!!! I thought that I had it with the Pirhana... I am 5 days into bloom, so if I have read correctly I can use this fungas fighter stuff for another 14 days or so before I gotta stop right?

I am off to buy some right now! Might alternate spraying 1 week Fungas fighter... 1 week Garlic because this stuff is really REALLY aggresive! DOesn't help that I burnt my plants by letting water get to low on me NFT system :unsure: Doh! I'll post back with my findings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well, i found the Biosept to have no lasting effect on lsf. i got 2 applications from the 500ml spray bottle 4 days apart. it appeared to slow the spread down briefly but became obvious that it would be a waste of money to proceed further with it.

next up is the citrofresh concentrate, mixed at 50ml to 500ml water, to be honest its difficult to tell if this has any effect in slowing the spread during flowering. i am finding the indicas are the worst affected, some individuals are showing no signs of the lsf spread slowing where as others of the same strain seem to be coping.

the strains that are holding up the best, and i think this is all i will be growing next run, is the super silver haze, mango haze, and cristal haze.

the mother plants have been treated twice now with fungus fighter, soon i will begin trichoderma applications on them and make a difficult choice as to dumping the indica strains.

First time i have come across this LSF. Seriously, its like something out of '28 Days Later' it spreads that fast! as i said in my last post a number of trees in my area are showing signs of this problem and i am now making plans to move to a new address to try and limit the problem as it is obviously airbourne.

the pic is of a SensiStar which i had to bin as it became badly affected over a few days, it was the first to show symptoms and here is how it looked when they first showed.

Cor! its non stop excitement this this hobby of ours!

post-8633-1193999446_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the same problem with trees on my street, unfortunately moving now is not an option... hope the Fungus Fighter works for us both mate! I tried Pirhana (trichoderma & mycorizal beneficial fungus) it slowed it down but didn't stop it. I think if the Fungus Fighter does work as described then spraying down every 5 days until 3/4 week bloom with trichoderma may well act as a preventative rather than cure.

Good luck, 28 days later :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi peter,

yes it seems treating plants in flower that are already infected is just a stop gap measure.

the key seems to be, from what i understand, is treating the mothers with a systemic fungicide and then colonising them with a tricoderma so that we are then fighting the lsf before it can turn the plant into its host. 'rootgrow' is a good cheap source of mycorrhizal fungi which i reccomend, and i will also be trying the 'canna tricoderma' i think, for regular leaf applications. and then all cuttings taken from the mothers for flowering are given the same treatments.

cheers and good luck to you also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Indeed I concur doctor :doh: I am looking for a mother among the plants I am growing now, so I hope to be able to keep her in tip top condition using the method you describe above. Thanks for the heads up on rootgrow just read up a little on it and it looks like good stuff. I can attest for Canna's Trichoderma ability to add significant root mass. So I'd definately say Tricho was the way to go in colonizing leaves and oblitirating LSF before it takes over.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thought I'd update yas on my progress with fungus fighter... seems to have held the infection up significantly. Affected leaf has reduced significantly, and leaves that had been cut back seemed to stayed fungus free. I did notice that other leaves that had been cut back lower down the plant now look like they are Nitrogen deficient (yellow) these were removed with any other LSF affected leaf found yesterday and I will spray again with Fungus Figheter or this new stuff I found called Fungus clear gun. It has something called penconazole in it and seems to deal with the same things Fungus Fighter does...

Here's a pic of the Fungus clear gun stuff:

http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?act=...t&id=184412

I also plan 2 more spray downs with Trichoderma & myco as described by Savage above... these will be 5 days apart first one in 3 days time and second one 5-6 days after that in the hope that the trichoderma & myco will keep LSF, rust & black spot at bay via colonizing the laves.

I am banking on this to work... after the 2nd application of Pirhana (trich & myco) the plants will be 21 days into bloom & flowers should be well on there way. I really don't wanna spray after this time but may do depending on advice.

SO my question is how long into bloom can the Pirhana/ water mix be used as a leaf drench? I would have thought week4 would be the latest you would want to be spraying anything onto budded plants at.

What say you.............

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey people, im questioning the methodology presented in this thread for fighting LSF.

I dont have a great deal of eperience with LSF, until recently none but i have been experimenting and have manaegd to infect some plants of mine with what could loosely be called LSF, as this appears to be the label that is being used to describe any fungal infection atm, which is fine tbh :yinyang: fungal is fungal ey?

The thing is to infect my plants, all i had to do was turn the ventillation off, all of this spraying down with fungicides and contant effort if growroom cleanliness are, in my opinion, rather useless.

Although it might be (jsut about) possible to eventually kill all of the spores that are currently affecting your leaves, unless you are growing in an air tight and fan filterd box, there are ALLWAYS going to be spores there.

I do have quite a bit of experience growing fungus, and if i wanted to stop its development i would a) stop air exchange, which the fungus needs to grow, not an option here. B) decrease the humidity, which is what i am suggesting as a real solution to stopping fungus growth, unless this is some kind of super fungus the lieks of whch iver never seen, which doesn't care in the slightest about humidity?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The problem with that approach is that plants need air + humidity too. Taking away what the plant needs in the hope that it will kill the fungus isn't a great idea.

If you keep air movement up + in quantity, it helps keep the spores from settling. Most people get LSF because of inadequate extraction or lack of oscillating fans... some get it anyway, but it's usually down to air movement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers eri, i kinda think that no oscilation is likely to cause localised spots of higher humidity as well, i know plants need humidity, but surely they need far far less than fungal growth neh?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i am finding the indicas are the worst affected, some individuals are showing no signs of the lsf spread slowing where as others of the same strain seem to be coping.

the strains that are holding up the best, and i think this is all i will be growing next run, is the super silver haze, mango haze, and cristal haze.

im also finding that SSH doesnt get affected, ive got skunk and ak47 which keep getting affected but every time the SSH is untouched.

im finding the only cure is systhane fungus fighter, if you soak the plant well enough it tends to hold it off for 4-5 weeks.

I dont like using the fungus fighter during flowering as it contains some nasties and is only reccomended for non edible crops, so i spray after the first week of flowering and the LSF doesnt usually come back till the last week ot 2 of flowering.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

but surely they need far far less than fungal growth neh?

I dunno, when I had LSF i only had 40% humidity and that's the minimum recommended for plants in flower :rofl:

High humidity will defo just help the fungi though, you're quite right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

The Rh in my drobe was 20% and I still got ravaged by LSF. I panicked and cut the plants down fearing I would lose it all. I then proceeded to throw out my drobe and will start over shortly (took 8 cuts last night). I will also be heading to the hydro store to see what they have as far as preventative measures. I am also building a new grow space which will give me more room for an oscillating fan etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Guest grandad

i suffered fungus for many years, i obtained a sulphume last year, i've tried this and that, came up with a weekly burn. it burns sulpher to a non toxic level. kills all fungul growth and bugs, including spider mites. it stinks in the house, but i burn very little and only for 2 hours weekly..

post-10832-1201038123_thumb.jpg

Edited by grandad
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im having a twat of a time with fungus...

Tryed every fungacide going with no success so am trying Trichoderma now. Have bought 2 Sulfume Hotboxs for my rooms if that fails....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. Privacy Policy Terms of Use