Guest Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 Cheers Blab, thank god you told me about your experience with Murphys - i was gonna use it first cheers pal, Redgrotto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest The Sheriff Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 (edited) Heya , well im on a test run With Murphys copper on the repeat 10 day spray , i put 14 White widow in of witch five were affected with lsf , all from the same mother that gave me grief on my last run . I left all the affected leaves on the said plants right up until the first trim , my result with less than 2 weeks to go not a spot of spread or a reinfection , in fact im that confident with it ive done all my mothers & up coming clones many weeks ago & will be using it from here on in . edit for typos Edited April 1, 2008 by The Sheriff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trychs Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 I've had a few problems with LSF this year which I was forced to take seriously after losing pretty much a whole crop and have been leaning towards sulphur as a longterm answer and wonder has anyone tried SULPHUR ROSE or wetsulf for roses. I've just treated my seedlings and clones with fungus fighter but am not happy with doing this as a longterm answer and would prefer it if an environment richer in sulphur would help instead. I can't put a link up as its a gardening site but this is the blurb for the sulphur Rose and it does sound promising at least. SULPHUR ROSE Sulphur has long been known to be the natural enemy of blackspot and powdery mildew, and in times when sulphur dioxide was present in the atmosphere – as a result of coal burning fires etc. – blackspot was unknown. So give your roses a treat with Greenacres’ SULPHUR-ROSE (previously sold as Wettable Sulphur). Roses love it – and so do rose growers. As the disease spores overwinter in the soil, the first application of SULPHUR ROSE should be applied to create a sulphuric condition that is alien to the spores. Regular applications at two to three monthly intervals during the dormant period, followed by monthly applications (at one-third of the application rate) during the leafing and flowering period will give good control. SULPHUR-ROSE is applied as a liquid tonic, so it immediately gets to work in the soil. Among its advantages, SULPHUR-ROSE: - Can be applied throughout the year. - Also promotes healthy vigorous growth and a profusion of perfect blooms. - An insecticide may be added to the solution if required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davey Jones Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Biolife ? never used it. Bio life = essence=soil secrets They are bacterial/fungal inoculants and are arguably the best defence against LSF, it can work against infections but it only stops the spread, bubble it up with mollasses and grow a friendly bacteria/fungal colony, conveniently on your leaves and foliage, then the dreaded LSF can't set up camp. The down side is its a bit of a chore to brew, but it leaves out the chemicals EM2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest duffy Posted August 4, 2008 Share Posted August 4, 2008 i bought some of this due to my slight fungus problem, ill let u know how i get on with it.ijm currently waiting on sum citrofresh been delivered.ta for the help everyone!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzy Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 Hi Long time reader, first time poster. I've been growing for around 2 years, always in compost. My first 2 or 3 grows were reasonably successful, getting just short of 4oz per plant, despite my many newbe mistakes. Each grow however, has been progressively worse, with my last one actually ending up in the compost bin. I am 99% confident I have been a victim of LSF, although this did take several months to diagnose. I assume that the spores in my flower room (a converted bedroom) have gradually been building up ever since I started my first grow. Anyway, my last grow was so bad that if I had removed all the infected leaves (which seems to be the general rule), I would have been left with stems and a few bits of air bud. It was only 4 weeks into flower (an 8 weeker) so couldn't have gone another 4 weeks. I took a pic of one of the worst affected leaves just in case I decided to post on here After I chucked the last grow, I bought a Hotbox Sulfume to try and rid the room of spores, and anything else that might be in there that shouldn't be I used it for 8 hours the first time and again a couple of days ago for 3 hours to hopefully kill any spores it missed the first time. I started 8 AK47s from seed about 6 weeks ago and have been giving them Canna Aktrivator both as a foliar spray and watering it in every 2 weeks. One plant was affected with LSF again quite badly so it was binned, but the rest seem fine. I have binned a male so I'm left with 6 females and have just put them in the flower room. I'll give them a week or so in flower then give them one last dose of Aktrivator, just to cover any fresh leaves. Pic of the AKs below. I have read Felix's thread about Trichoderma a couple of times. Some great knowledge and advice in there and it's because of that thread that I bought some Canna Aktrivator, (which does seem to be doing the trick). I wouldn't have minded trying some of Webby's Essence, but I am unable to send pms just yet, as I am a new user. Hopefully I won't need any if the Aktrivator does its job. One question I have though, after I have given them their last spray of Aktrivator, should I give the room another go with the Sulfume? I don't want to be giving the plants some friendly fungus if it's going to be killed by the sulphur. The guide with the Sulfume says it can be used up to the last week of flower, so I don't think it will harm the plants, but I don't want it leaving them exposed to LSF either. Thanks in advance for any help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scraglor Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 (edited) thought this would be a worthwhile contribution, especially for people who are skint! edit: whoops, forgot the link! hah http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/bakingsoda.html Edited August 7, 2008 by scraglor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solarchild Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 Nice one Scraglor, I'm always up for a bit of DIY shizzle. I think i''l look into that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jazzy Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 Here's another suggestion for the DIYers/organics: Fusarium and chilli peppers! Summary for those without the patience: They think chilli plants are spicy because it prohibits fusarium growth. Looks like a chilli/garlic foliar spray combo might be in order, although I'm not sure how long capsicum (the chilli spice) takes to degrade: don't know if I'd want to be smoking chilli..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhatta81 Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 Well I ended up with some weird "burn" type marks showing up on my plants. At first I assumed it was burns from too much foodstuffs. After reading about using baking soda to kill the fungus i desided to try it. mixed up a batch and sprayed my leafs. it already looks better after everything dried off. I'm quite impressed with this solution for fungus problems. One thing i did wanna ask. how late into flowering can this be used with out harming the buds. I'm on my 3rd week of flowering so hope this wont give my ladies some future birth defects =P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bish Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 I wouldn't spray when they're fully into bud, as the chance of bud rot is increased. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhatta81 Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 Ok thanks. i kinda figured later was bad. had heard you should stop spraying drectly on the leafs when you are flowering for that very reason. Either way anyone with fungus problems should give this a shot imo. I wanted to stay clear of bug and fungus chimical based killers as to not poison the buds. I hate the taste of bug poison in my smoke. Still keep in mind if you use this, dont over use it. the artical was http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/bakingsoda.html if anyone wants to read up on it as well. I got the link from here but was kinda so cant remember what topic i found it in or i'd quote from them =/ Either way. Good luck all on fighting the fungus among us Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAI Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 (edited) I too have some LSF on a couple of my strains Just received some of Webbys Esscence so I'll be making brew tonight....if someone could answer a couple of questions I'd be grateful. Pro Lib kindly put up a step by step for making the brew, so that's what I'll be following. In it he makes up a total of 3 litres of spray.....now this would be far too much for me; so, Can I make a smaller amount, say 1 litre in total and dividing the liquid measurments accordingly? If I cannot make a smaller amount and have to make 3 litres, does this stuff keep for any length of time and if so under what conditions? I've read that some sprayers shred the bacteria and render it useless, please someone confirm that I will be okay to apply this with a 'normal' hand held trigger sprayer? Many thanks in advance for forthcomming help and I apologise if this info has been posted B) Edited September 9, 2008 by fresh air inspector Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Dzerzhinsky Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 I too have some LSF on a couple of my strains Just received some of Webbys Esscence so I'll be making brew tonight....if someone could answer a couple of questions I'd be grateful. Pro Lib kindly put up a step by step for making the brew, so that's what I'll be following. In it he makes up a total of 3 litres of spray.....now this would be far too much for me; so, Can I make a smaller amount, say 1 litre in total and dividing the liquid measurments accordingly? If I cannot make a smaller amount and have to make 3 litres, does this stuff keep for any length of time and if so under what conditions? I've read that some sprayers shred the bacteria and render it useless, please someone confirm that I will be okay to apply this with a 'normal' hand held trigger sprayer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAI Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 Thanks felix.....muchos grassis Can you suggest a type of sprayer please.....one that won't kill the little blighters that I am about to so lovingly manifest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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