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established1976

How To Make A Stealth Veg Cabinet On A Sunday Afternoon

109 posts in this topic

thats a real nice box you have there mate :yep: , very tidy looking lol

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Tidy box, I need to get something going myself...

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proper tidy, thread and box. really like the way you lay your posts out. like more the way your setin up your cab. :yep:

Nice one established1976. keepin eyes peeled lol

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cheers people, thanks for the kind words ... just doing some light proofing now on the doors will post some more asap

been thinking about the extraction too and am considering either stacking up 2 fans back to back to beef it up .... or having one either side of the filter (once I made it) so one will push the air through the filter and the other will pull it through on the other side and out of the cab .... I shall post everything here anyhow when I get round to doing it.

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I could run the extract fan faster than the intake, I guess if I switched it up to 12v and added a resistor on the feed to the intake fan the correct resisitor would drop the voltage to say 6v so one was running faster than the other but off the same mains adaptor .... I would rather have them all running at 6v though its much quiter so 2 on extract at 6v and one intake at 6v

Edited by established1976

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This is sweeet, dude. :rofl:

Ill be here till the end of this one.

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Nice work. Interesting too since I'm at the (finally) finishing my veg closet stage. Couple of questions if I may. You mention using silicone on the edges, that's for light proofing I assume ? What was the stuff you used, cos that's the one bit that's got me slightly flummoxed, my veg closet is my cupboard under the sink, and there's a gap between the sink unit and the top of the cupboard that I'll need to seal. I was thinking maybe using summat like a grouting gun, is that similar to what you used (and is what you used cheaper and/or easier to use). Cheers (and my finished effort won't be half as good as yours, tis a very nice job).

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Boojum just a normal silicon gun should be fine to use with some normal white silicon seal just smooth off the edges after youve done it with a bit of card

I guess it all depends on the size of the gap but grout would probabaly work too

Nice progress there established im kinda doin a similar type of unit with same parts would like to see how you do the light proffing with the p seal as thats what i used but still have little light leaks on joins

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very nicely done mate will be watching with interest

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top job on the Veg Cabinet keep it up :wink:

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looking good there m8,

the only thing i would change would be to put the extension lead outside of the cabinet and drill some holes and feed the leads through the holes in to the cabinet to give you a bit more room and in case of any spills.

apart from that, :wink:

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I did consider mounting the electrics outside somewhere but I decided it was more important to have it all self contained

For the light proofing we shall be using 15mm x 25mm length of planed timber and some door & window draught excluded (P profile)

The timber was £2.92 and the Draught excluding strip was £5.93 total spend - £8.85

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firstly we are going to fit the timber across the horizontal lengths at both the top and the bottom of the door, when fitting we need to ensure that the gap between the timber and the doors is about 2-3mm, you could use a piece of card or something to space it ... I did it by eye, when the batten has been fitted and I have checked that the gap is ok (2 -3mm) along both the bottom and top lengths I then add the draught excluder P section to the timber. I found it easier to remove the timber add the P section and then fit it again.

As you can see from the 3rd picture when the door is closed there is a nice tight fit , the P section fills the 2-3mm gap nicely

PS I held the timber in place with screws, there's 3 in each length just now, I intend to add some more once Im sure everything is in the right place!

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Edited by established1976

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Next I need to seal the vertical lengths, I could have used timber again and copied exactly what I did on the horizontals but it doesnt actually need it this time as I can apply the P pection direct onto the side of the cabinet. First I close the doors and mark with a black marker where the door runs down the inside (see pic1) then I removed the doors to make it easier and added the P section to both sides.

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Next the center, we simply add another batten to the inside of one of the doors so it hangs half over, we dont need any P section on this as it would stop the doors from closing flush with each other.

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