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Butane Honey Oil


grobag

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On 11/24/2018 at 11:11 PM, Donkeybong said:

@potato1356 i usually use the PTFE sheet, but ive run out and forgot to order more. typically i haven't remembered until i was ready to pour........ ill take this as a reminder and order some now 


Been there - nightmare! once I pulled a freshly purged slab off a sheet, cut the sheet in half, and just had to have 2 double thick slabs that took ages to purge lol
 

On 11/24/2018 at 11:29 PM, FarmerPalmersNT said:

Sorry, yes, take your point with the lab analysis. Didn't read/engage brain.

 

I still disagree fundamentally. My level of experience with BHO is far from exactly master level but I do understand through reading and experience how to purge and produce a high quality product. I still enjoy the rosin in terms of flavours and quality as much as the BHO. They are different. I still make both. 

 

Vacuuming the rosin was to try and get a better more easy to handle product. 


Oh yeah I'm not doubting your product isn't clean - I'm just implying through refinement of tech that percentages of meds can be improved :) 

ahhh i didn't consider moisture in rosin - where would it come from though? 
 

On 11/25/2018 at 0:15 AM, FarmerPalmersNT said:

 

Yep, and I have. Also should clarify, reason for vaccing rosin is also to increase stability and recover any residual moisture.


maybe I read wrong, but isn't what they class as live rosin using bubble hash made from live plants? This unfortunately is very far from live resin....
 

On 11/25/2018 at 7:33 AM, Breezus said:

Interesting thread, I'm fairly new to extracting as I've only ever made FECO . 

 

I appreciate this may come across as naive , but, why in this day and age are people still extracting with butane and iso? That's a genuine question. I simply can't get my head around the idea of making meds that have risk.

 

:yinyang:


The tech has improved - the purge tech is lightyears ahead of what it was a decade ago - everything is ripped right out if done correctly. no risk if you seek the best - you just need to know what to look for, im thinking of starting a thread for this.....
 

On 11/25/2018 at 10:07 AM, Arthur Mix said:

All this from someone who works with solvents indoors lol .. 


If this is aimed at me, you're correct - starting last week I work exclusively indoors, in a purpose built lab with explosion proof extraction, combustible gas detectors and auto co2 fire extinguishers lined in the rafters. :yep:

 

 

On 11/25/2018 at 11:26 AM, dylanbk said:

 

You'd need much longer than 1 / 2 minute press at 90c to fully decarb right?

 

My original question, what's bad about it being high in THC instead of THCA? Does it impact potency/flavour etc, whats the downside? (genuinely curious!)

 

If your product is 60% THC and you smoke it vs 60% THCA, whats the difference exactly?

 


if it's fully decarbed - eat it. if its yet to be activated - vape or dab it. 

the high would be non-existent and flat on the decarbed extract. 

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On 25/11/2018 at 0:46 PM, FarmerPalmersNT said:

Super critical CO2 is probably the safest and cleanest option, but a bit beyond most folks means.

 

 

That's the system I found last night. I didn't get specs though so no idea how big the smallest unit is lol

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26 minutes ago, potato1356 said:

in a purpose built lab with explosion proof extraction, combustible gas detectors and auto co2 fire extinguishers lined in the rafters

 

That appears to be more than the average home extractor kit lol

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1 hour ago, potato1356 said:

ahhh i didn't consider moisture in rosin - where would it come from though? 
 


maybe I read wrong, but isn't what they class as live rosin using bubble hash made from live plants? This unfortunately is very far from live resin....
 

 

Moisture (at least I think - no facts to back this up) is a crucial part of rosin extraction, and is also a good factor in preventing getting stable or shatter like consistency out of rosin. You need around 60%RH to get a decent yield, too little and yield is low, too much and it is really sappy and can take chlorophyll with it in the extreme. My feeling is that the steam created drives out and strips the rosin to some extent, rather than the rosin solely flowing by itself. That is where the moisture comes from in my opinion. I'm experimenting to try and ascertain how much water is carried across in rosin, but I'm convinced its some.

 

The proper "live rosin" is made from freeze dried buds. I did have a rudimentary attempt at that which worked well as per my previous topic, but it is ridiculously labour intensive. Worked well until I blew the compressor, as my botched effort was not a long term solution any sane person would use. I'd like a proper freeze dryer in due course as the results were great, but relied on guesswork in terms of reaching the right RH and was VERY pressure sensitive. The bubble hash is not strictly live rosin, but in my experience produces a very high quality product. Probably my favourite extract actually. This is generally what is familiar to most as 'live rosin' , and is what the dispensaries generally sell as such. Live resin is exclusively BHO/solvent extract practically speaking - although these are all stoner semantics anyway so....

 

I would love a CO2 system but the ones worth having start around the £40k mark. ETA - did find this: https://ocolabs.com/extractors/ $4000!! No recovery and not a lot of control over pressure/temp but cool nonetheless. Anyone want to buy one and post a review? :)

 

ETA - I agree with you in that I have no problem with a proper quality, serviced and pressure tested setup being used indoors. I use mine indoors albeit ventilated well across ground level too. I also pressure test it every so often with a dive bottle tank. In my view its WAY safer than the big box of cans most people keep indoors or the tank of butane sat in my garage!!!  I'd NEVER open blast indoors. That's asking for it.

 

Edited by FarmerPalmersNT
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3 hours ago, FarmerPalmersNT said:

 

Moisture (at least I think - no facts to back this up) is a crucial part of rosin extraction, and is also a good factor in preventing getting stable or shatter like consistency out of rosin. You need around 60%RH to get a decent yield, too little and yield is low, too much and it is really sappy and can take chlorophyll with it in the extreme. My feeling is that the steam created drives out and strips the rosin to some extent, rather than the rosin solely flowing by itself. That is where the moisture comes from in my opinion. I'm experimenting to try and ascertain how much water is carried across in rosin, but I'm convinced its some.

 

The proper "live rosin" is made from freeze dried buds. I did have a rudimentary attempt at that which worked well as per my previous topic, but it is ridiculously labour intensive. Worked well until I blew the compressor, as my botched effort was not a long term solution any sane person would use. I'd like a proper freeze dryer in due course as the results were great, but relied on guesswork in terms of reaching the right RH and was VERY pressure sensitive. The bubble hash is not strictly live rosin, but in my experience produces a very high quality product. Probably my favourite extract actually. This is generally what is familiar to most as 'live rosin' , and is what the dispensaries generally sell as such. Live resin is exclusively BHO/solvent extract practically speaking - although these are all stoner semantics anyway so....

 

I would love a CO2 system but the ones worth having start around the £40k mark. ETA - did find this: https://ocolabs.com/extractors/ $4000!! No recovery and not a lot of control over pressure/temp but cool nonetheless. Anyone want to buy one and post a review? :)

 

ETA - I agree with you in that I have no problem with a proper quality, serviced and pressure tested setup being used indoors. I use mine indoors albeit ventilated well across ground level too. I also pressure test it every so often with a dive bottle tank. In my view its WAY safer than the big box of cans most people keep indoors or the tank of butane sat in my garage!!!  I'd NEVER open blast indoors. That's asking for it.

 


This is really informative cheers for that :) 

I'm not bothered about a co2 extractor - I'm going to get a rotor-vac for making distillate at some point though.....

Yes I also pressure test my system with nitrogen before every run to triple the max psi that I run at - that with a squirty bottle of fairy liquid and the combustible gas detectors are always on. 



 

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Thought this was quite interesting -

 

Quote

 

When it comes to terpenes, rosin entries had an average of 0.66 percent terpenoids by mass. Other non-solvent hashes average at 0.75 percent terpenoids, and solvent-extracted oil took the cake with 0.77 percent.

 

We know what you’re thinking about the 0.77 percent average of the BHO terps: one (or a few) of those solvent-extracted entries are reconstituted with outside terpenes (cannabis or not), inflating the average. You’d be wrong thinking that, all the entries were laid out on a table to observe any outliers and assure they didn’t skew the average. As it turns out, no outliers existed and all of them were perfectly compliant with Cannabis Cup rules and regulations.

 

To measure the amount of decarboxylated THC, I devised the “decarboxylation percentage,” defined as the percentage THC / percentage THCA multiplied by 100. BHO entries had an average of 2.7 percent (for example, a median entry has 2.1 percent THC and 85.5 percent THC). Non-solvent hashes had an average of 6.6 percent, and rosin had an average of 19.3 percent, significantly higher than that of the other two methods.

 

Obviously, the heat involved in pressing the rosin decarboxylates some of the THC, although it’s interesting to note that these decarboxylation percentages improved as time went on, people got better at making rosin!

 

 

Link

 

Edit - Ty to everyone here, helped me learn so much new stuff!

Edited by dylanbk
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1 hour ago, potato1356 said:

@FarmerPalmersNT just saw that the $4000 system only processes 1oz at a time and takes 90 minutes to run lol what a joke hahahahaaa!!!

 

Yup. You can get extensions, but still....

 

My mates got a tasty rotary evap thing. His house is like a sci-fi film set.

 

Good link @dylanbk 

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  • 3 weeks later...

New shit - 

super lemon amnesia - processed -110 filtered to 5 micron.
large.48361176_30989423652_d2StU.jpglarge.48389490_21839075151_gAhJ3.jpg

Next up - Lemon haze x manny dawg 

large.48360280_50871319953_ka9Cx.jpglarge.47689440_60560339653_JYMn7.jpg

Ken's kush - 

large.48360859_10922375909_wWyJS.jpglarge.48210597_14934409707_xTXVW.jpg

 

 

Lemon cherry diesel live resin - 

 

large.48177991_27038106029_q4fsC.jpg

 


And finally, my favourite - chemtrails - 

large.48355907_53497154698_bd7DS.jpglarge.48272897_1152669964911862_6265933302872408064_n.jpglarge.48187073_2184424125219415_4018678552428806144_n.jpg


I recently got a puffco peak e-rig - and it's revolutionised my extract experience - infinitely more discreet and travel friendly, easy to use and clean, 5 temperatures, clean pull every time. perfecto. I'd heavily recommend them to people who find hot dabs a traumatic experience - this thing is lovely to use. 

large.48270656_29029993829_Ufowf.jpg

All for now folks! 

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  • 3 months later...

Hi guys every time I do a bho run I’m getting a dirty brown product.

im open blasting using London gas into a dish that’s sat over a water bath. The waters luke warm. I’m then purging in my vac again using water baths (bit hotter) not boiling tho usually for a cpl of days.

Im obvs doing something wrong because I came across the brightest yellowest waxy not sticky at all product the other day. I’m thinking heat mat for the purge so I can be more accurate with temps?

Any ideas where I’m going wrong colour wise?

I want the AA yellow not the dark brown sticky I’m getting

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 25/11/2018 at 7:33 AM, Breezus said:

Interesting thread, I'm fairly new to extracting as I've only ever made FECO . 

 

I appreciate this may come across as naive , but, why in this day and age are people still extracting with butane and iso? That's a genuine question. I simply can't get my head around the idea of making meds that have risk.

 

:yinyang:

Maybe its the cost. i'd guess that is the only reason.

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  • 4 months later...

Simple but effective guide to Butane Honey, thank you very much @grobag. Other methods I've read require significantly more specialised equipment (vacuum pump/chamber) which put me off. I'll be trying this on trim/residue. Better still all be performed outside without any form of ignition negating the chance of disaster. Thanks once again :) 

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On 18/03/2019 at 5:34 PM, coreysouse said:

Hi guys every time I do a bho run I’m getting a dirty brown product.

im open blasting using London gas into a dish that’s sat over a water bath. The waters luke warm. I’m then purging in my vac again using water baths (bit hotter) not boiling tho usually for a cpl of days.

Im obvs doing something wrong because I came across the brightest yellowest waxy not sticky at all product the other day. I’m thinking heat mat for the purge so I can be more accurate with temps?

Any ideas where I’m going wrong colour wise?

I want the AA yellow not the dark brown sticky I’m getting

Keep your temps as low as pos mate and take your time :yep:

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  • 6 months later...

Hi guys I’m a bit late to this party read the last few pages..

 

ive got a passive cls system with a 18” and 24” jacket blast columns with 1.9cf vac oven using distilled whip it butane.

 

ive rung boc and for prices for pure instrument grade Iso tane which I would like to try and run instead but haven’t got a spare £450 a bottle off them.

Has anyone on here run pure iso-tane or n-tane? As I know whip it contains iso,n and propane which all have different boiling points when trying to recover.

 

tomorrow I am running some pm contaminated live resin run which I know will need extra work to clean it up.

 

here is pictures of my last run some cookie cross on the flip after about 12 hours in the oven.

large.02710A03-F743-4F08-B557-2DC6F01FEF32.jpeg

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  • 2 months later...

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