YourDrooganLeader Posted August 15, 2005 Share Posted August 15, 2005 i usually start my seeds in muck 405497[/snapback] wft? can you do that? start in muck then put em into to bubs? how much root growth, or how far do you let them go, before you move them into bubs. are they still small enuf to go into 1"rwool or do you just (carefully) plonk them into claypebs. or you could put them into the holes in rockwool cubes filled with perlite (i like perlite , dunno why, i think its cos you have to wear one of those 3m masks when you are fucking about with it dry and that adds the psychological element of danger, thus makinjg it more exiting to use. for fuckin morons like me anyways ) i think i need to try this soil starting and then transplantinting. obviously you must have mentioned it in your posts but i have missed it. then again, i think i might have got the hang of th hydro starting but i still think soil wins over hydro in those initial sprouting stages as hydro offers no room at all for error, if yer nutes are slightly out within a couple of hours you have a dead plant and i know all about that pic is of 2 ak (on right ,2 wk)+ 2 bgum, 9 days. the other four are hiding,stage fright or summat :!: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YourDrooganLeader Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 all is well, just waiting for my mate to finish wiv my 600w hps i borrowed him. then the fun will begin. have got 3 x ak47 and 5 x bg all veggin away, ak's 1 week in front of bgum. have some strange goings on with ph though. either my mains supply has altered in some way or something i am doin is causing ph to rise a little too quickly for my liking, i have to add citric everyday to keep ph below 6. i can lower it to 5.2-5.3 and within 1 day it has rose to 6.1 leave it for 3-4 days and the ph will be 7.4ish!!!!! why??? the hesi nutes i use are set at 5.8 and my mains supply is usually 7.2ish (well it has been for last 4-5 days) i read a table once which demonstrated how the different elements present in nutrients are taken up by the plant at differering ph levels. for example, magnesium is taken up at a much lower ph than phosphorus. this leads me into thinking that nutrient variation can only be a good thing. is it? was the table based on sound evidence? i'll dig it out and post it. the plants by the way are all healthy as f*** is this due to my constant ph lowering or am i just being lucky and am in for a bad shock one day when i look at my babes? cant really do shit till i get my light back be4cause, although flos are nice and efficient, they do not compare with hps for growth. am off for my tea. have got a nice dose of flu by the way and feel like shite. happy days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MU Posted August 23, 2005 Author Share Posted August 23, 2005 (edited) hi dr.p if the ph is rising too quickly every day, it usually means the ec is too low. also, are you keeping an eye on the res temps? it should be kept at between 68-75 degrees ideally... i find with my water and nutes, i get mg lockout if i maintain a ph of below 5.7. altho i do know there are other hydro growers who use lower ph ranges, down around 5.3-5.6, this doesnt work at all for my nutes. thats with soft water at ec 0.2 though, which may have something to do with it. Edited August 23, 2005 by MU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MU Posted August 23, 2005 Author Share Posted August 23, 2005 (edited) ive heard of people putting ice (iced up water bottles not lumps of ice) in the res, but never tried it myself... perhaps improve your ventilation, if possible, to bring the temps in the growroom down? air-con? 402743[/snapback] for completeness, as i forgot to mention it, wrapping the bubbler in tin-foil/mylar will also help to lower the temps in the res... Edited August 23, 2005 by MU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YourDrooganLeader Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 for completeness, as i forgot to mention it, wrapping the bubbler in tin-foil/mylar will also help to lower the temps in the res... 409123[/snapback] i just got 40m of mylar for nowt i bought some stuff off the previous owner and it never arrived. i got my £ back and then got an email off the new owner explaining he had taken over the business. i said to him, "does that mean you are actually going to send goods people have paid for?" hey presto, i get an email saying he'll send me some and the other day i got about 40m x 1.4 m of the stuff through the post. all is well here, moved the babes off premisis into their new aboad. still waiting for my hps back so they are under 8 x 18w flos. getting lovely vegative growth i am, nice short internodes, nice healthy looking leaves. am lowering ph to 5.2 every 2 days. by then the ph is up to 7.6 so it is rising pretty quick. the one saving grace with this is that it doesnt stay at a certain ph long enuf for any mineral lockouts (i hope) pic shows ak47 and bits of other bgums and aks before i have had chance to lift up light and move to new room. cheers for all your help so far mu, you are a lifesaver. excellent work my friend, you are the king of bubblers. by the way, have you read this months weedworld magazine? theres and article about a new type of dwc system called 02XS, it used dissolved oxygen as a pose to direct oxygen supplied by air pumps. the articles author was blown away by it, but he is not entirely objective. wot do you reackon MU? load of pants or the real deal? if you need copy of article i'll try to scan it and send it to you repect ps, i also have a bit of rust on a couple of my lowest sun leaves, they are laso sohwing signs if light depravation but that cannot be helped till i get my 600whps back. whats the crack with the rusting? it doesn't look serious but then again, i don't want it to turn into owt serious if you get my meaning? cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YourDrooganLeader Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 (edited) for completeness, as i forgot to mention it, wrapping the bubbler in tin-foil/mylar will also help to lower the temps in the res... 409123[/snapback] i bought some stuff off the previous owner and it never arrived. i got my £ back and then got an email off the new owner explaining he had taken over the business. i said to him, "does that mean you are actually going to send goods people have paid for?" hey presto, i get an email saying he'll send me some and the other day i got about 40m x 1.4 m of the stuff through the post. all is well here, moved the babes off premisis into their new aboad. still waiting for my hps back so they are under 8 x 18w flos. getting lovely vegative growth i am, nice short internodes, nice healthy looking leaves. am lowering ph to 5.2 every 2 days. by then the ph is up to 7.6 so it is rising pretty quick. the one saving grace with this is that it doesnt stay at a certain ph long enuf for any mineral lockouts (i hope) pic shows ak47 and bits of other bgums and aks before i have had chance to lift up light and move to new room. cheers for all your help so far mu, you are a lifesaver. excellent work my friend, you are the king of bubblers. by the way, have you read this months weedworld magazine? theres and article about a new type of dwc system called 02XS, it used dissolved oxygen as a pose to direct oxygen supplied by air pumps. the articles author was blown away by it, but he is not entirely objective. wot do you reackon MU? load of pants or the real deal? if you need copy of article i'll try to scan it and send it to you repect ps, i also have a bit of rust on a couple of my lowest sun leaves, they are also showing signs of light depravation but that cannot be helped till i get my 600whps back. whats the crack with the rusting? it doesn't look serious but then again, i don't want it to turn into owt serious if you get my meaning? cheers Edited October 28, 2005 by Joolz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YourDrooganLeader Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 eyup MU, this is the pic of the ak wiv preflowers i told you about in the PM. i'll get some closer shots of the preflowers later when my batteries have charged in my macro digicam. Peace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MU Posted September 7, 2005 Author Share Posted September 7, 2005 hi mate a few questions... 1) what strength are you running your nutes at? i find my bubblers work fine at a 1/3 strength nutes for the whole grow (i start at 1/5 strength for newly rooted clones, then a 1/4 strength, then 1/3 strength),... some people go up to 1/2 strength nutes in bubblers, but i find that burns my plants. 2) are you monitoring your res temps and making sure it stays within an acceptable range at all times? 68-75 degrees F is where is should be. 3) what is happening to your ec, does it fluctuate at all? i find with my system, when the pH is rising too quickly over 24hrs, it usually means i need to increase the nutrient strength. cheers mu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Maria Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 (edited) Im currently using a Waterfarm with add airstone in the res with Canna Nutes. I usually dont see any major increases with Ph. It does rise slowly from 5.8 to 6.2-6.4 over 4-5 days.. I run nutes at 1/4, 1/2 then full dose over 3 weeks.. (veg and flower cycles) Currently Ec is at 1.6 at 16 days into flower and have no probs at the moment.. Pickle Edited September 7, 2005 by pickle121 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadcapMagician Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 (edited) Excellent thread, MU. I didn't read the whole thread so if I'm repeating someone else's post here, forgive me.... You talked about aquarium pumps but didn't mention the difference between diaphragm and piston pumps. A piston air pump is as quiet (or quieter) as a diaphragm pump but kicks out around 60 times more air - 40 to 50 litres a minute rather than 40 to 50 litres per hour - for around £5 more (on E-bay). I have one of these... clickety-click ... running two 50 litre DWC tanks. Edited October 28, 2005 by Joolz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacific Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 first i would like to say this is the best thread on bubblers i have yet seen. i've been trying to do as much research on the subject before i jump in and start building. the plan is to build 20 gallon bubblers growing the chemo x dalat hyrid with no veg time. we are trying to go with one plant per light, ending up with 5k flowering room and five plants. 12 weeks is the recommended flowering time for this variety. i'll be posting some pics as things begin to actually take place as the new grow is just under construction. i'll try to read as much as i can before i post any questions. thanks again for a pleasurable read peace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegrower Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 Fantastic guide ! Infact the most comprehensive i've seen. Feeling inspired buy this thread i decided to set up a bubbler garden in my spare grow room (spare grow room - get that !) and for a first attempt at it its looking pretty goot buy all accounts - i built 4 bubblers all connected with a control bucket under my 600watt light and all was looking well - they did veryy little at first then grew at the same rate as my soil plants for a week and the second week of verg they just took off totaly and are about twice the size of my soil plants ! I'm ready for flower but somthing is causing the leaves to claw - no other signs of anything just leaf clawing under. REALY heathy roots lovley bushy plants all looking healthy apart from the clawing - no nute burn or anything ? im a little puzzled and was wondering if anyone has any ideas ? im running using canna nutes at an ec of 0.6 and a ph of 5.8 i want to put these babbies in to flower but not sure its a good idea whist there like this ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MU Posted November 5, 2005 Author Share Posted November 5, 2005 (edited) hi thegrower, im glad you like the thread and found it helpful. about the clawing leaves... what strength nutes are you running at? 1/2, 1/4, 1/3?? my guess is the clawing leaves will be down to too high a nute strength... how do the ph and ec change day-to-day, are they stable, or do they fluctuate at all? what canna nutes is it, is it Aqua nutes or Substra, and what is the back ground ec of your tap water? as for going in to flower yet, or not, that depends on the size of the plants and whether you have enough height available to keep them in veg, bearing in mind theyll stretch when put into flowering... if theyve been vegging for a few weeks though, then maybe you should put them into flowering. got any pics? Edited November 5, 2005 by MU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MU Posted November 5, 2005 Author Share Posted November 5, 2005 Im currently using a Waterfarm with add airstone in the res with Canna Nutes. I usually dont see any major increases with Ph. It does rise slowly from 5.8 to 6.2-6.4 over 4-5 days.. I run nutes at 1/4, 1/2 then full dose over 3 weeks.. (veg and flower cycles) Currently Ec is at 1.6 at 16 days into flower and have no probs at the moment.. Pickle hi pickle, nice looking plant mate. ive got a waterfarm i havent tried out yet, hopefully i'll give it a whirl next year to see how it compares to running a bubbler. cheers mu Excellent thread, MU. I didn't read the whole thread so if I'm repeating someone else's post here, forgive me.... You talked about aquarium pumps but didn't mention the difference between diaphragm and piston pumps. A piston air pump is as quiet (or quieter) as a diaphragm pump but kicks out around 60 times more air - 40 to 50 litres a minute rather than 40 to 50 litres per hour - for around £5 more (on E-bay). I have one of these... clickety-click ... running two 50 litre DWC tanks. thanks for the info, madcap. first i would like to say this is the best thread on bubblers i have yet seen. i've been trying to do as much research on the subject before i jump in and start building. the plan is to build 20 gallon bubblers growing the chemo x dalat hyrid with no veg time. we are trying to go with one plant per light, ending up with 5k flowering room and five plants. 12 weeks is the recommended flowering time for this variety. i'll be posting some pics as things begin to actually take place as the new grow is just under construction. i'll try to read as much as i can before i post any questions. thanks again for a pleasurable read peace sounds like an exciting project you have planned... B) look forward to seeing some pics... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegrower Posted November 5, 2005 Share Posted November 5, 2005 (edited) Mu - thanks for the reply the nutes are canna aqua and i have a small pump recurculating the nutes around in the buckets... what nutes do you use ? i remember reading what you use but cant find it ? the ph did fluctuate a little last time i changed the nutes as i dont have a big enough vessle to pre mix the nutes in so i mixed up the solution in the buckets using tap water - kept an eye over the next few days as needed. the background ec is 0.4 i guess the nutes are a little about 1/3 strength - being a hydro novice i just kept an eye on the ec - figured i would keep an eye on the plants - they burnt a tiny bit at 0.7 so i backed it off to 0.6 and they seemed fine. is the leaf curl likley to be the ph ? cant get any pics atm as my digital camera is on the blink :-( i'm going to flower them as i want to get a harvest in by my birthday at the start of jan and i think its going to need 9 weeks :-| Im very impressed with the groth rate and am definatley going to keep my bubbler garden running - just need to get the tecnique sorted out ! Cheers TG Edited November 5, 2005 by thegrower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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