elduderino Posted January 17, 2007 Share Posted January 17, 2007 this is all news to me, glad i read this thread, no one ever told me to get one at the grow shop and I didnt know to ask to be honest so I have a digital timer and it says 16A 3500W maxi.. sorry to annoy those that already know and have answered a million times, but i dont know - il shell out the dosh or make one - in not trying to be stingey,, but ,,,, do i still need one if mine is rated as stated? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Freddy Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 (edited) so I have a digital timer and it says 16A 3500W maxi..sorry to annoy those that already know and have answered a million times, but i dont know - il shell out the dosh or make one - in not trying to be stingey,, but ,,,, do i still need one if mine is rated as stated? I'm pretty sure you don't need one. Is it of decent quality? Edited January 18, 2007 by Fat Freddy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elduderino Posted January 18, 2007 Share Posted January 18, 2007 (edited) hey fatfreddy, i got it from carrefour, its like a french owned hypermarket, there a huge company, it seems middle of the road to me,,, its not high end anyways,,,and it was dirt cheap!!! 8 euros B) it can do 20 different programmes, its not for outdoor use and thats all i know tbh, sorry to be a bit thick oh forgot to mention that its 230v - 50hhz if that makes a different (im on euro electrics these days) cheers edit: added a pic so you can get an idea if its ok quality from the look of it Edited January 18, 2007 by elduderino Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Sesmesesles Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Just to add my €0.02... I got one of these from FleaBay for a good price 18 months ago. It claims to be able to handle up to 30A without the need for a contactor and my 400W draws less than 2A when running. It's currently on its 6th grow now and has spectacularly failed to blow up, catch fire, emit smoke or scary smells, or do anything other than work 100% reliably. Doom and gloom mongers take note... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cf Posted February 15, 2007 Share Posted February 15, 2007 you might be right mate and they may be the better option but all the grow shop stock timers and contactors, and they are easy items to buy otc in electrical factors ,perhaps these clocks are available in your country but over here i've never seen them. i used do the trenches for cabling and erect street lamps and over here there all on one big circuit with a contactor on the end of it.maybe there was a time when we had clocks in each lamp post but not any more. perhaps you can enlighten us and do a search for a uk stockist of the type of clock you have 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my_name_is_brian_potter Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 Friend of mine had timer trouble. A couple siezed up but the rest were fine. After reading this though I shall advise him about the safety issues that have been pointed out here. I would hate to think of him burning his house down, that would be terrible as I would have no-one to get my green off Safety is the issue here and I know that if I ever make the bold step of growing then I will heed these warnings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamienG Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 you say you need 2 sockets for the ralay ??? im only gonna run a 250w so would i need 2 wall sockets ?? Yes, the reason is one socket is used as the "activate" socket - i.e. where you plus the timer into that turns your lights on/off and the second socket is used as the "power" socket that the lights draw the current from. socket 1) mains->timer->socket 1 of contactor socket 2) main->relay->power strip->ballast make sense? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamienG Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 I know you guys are all gung ho over contactors, but in reality your all doing it wrong period. Your starting of using inferrior timers instead of getitng a comercial timer. I must have posted this about 5 times already. If you have the right time clock then you do not need a contactor, if you need a contactor, your using the the wrong clock. Dikki, yoru right to a point but infact you do not need a contactor Here is the one I am using for both of my 250w lights. And seeing is is designed spefically for these type of HID lighting, in fact THIS IS them absolute right way of doing it regardless of what anyone says. It is rated @ 40 amps 120v for the US and I am sure you have somthing equivilent and available to you guys over there. I am not trying to start an argument, but I am sick of people saying that a contactor is the right way when in fact it is not at all. All you have to do is use the right parts, on top of this, I believe this timer cost less then your contactor and cheap timer combined. Not only that, but whats the price of timer with contactor vs high voltage contactor? I'd image that a contactor with timer costing about £30-£40 is cheaper than a commercial timer you're using? Correct me if i'm wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelfish Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 hello... instead of using a relay.. does anyone think these timers would be sufficient to handle the surge of hid lights... please let me know, as these seem a cheap alternative if viable.. ebay item no.. 250085088304 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scribb|e Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 the power rating on the timer is 13A 3120w MAX LOAD You do know that this will be the *resistive* load capacity, and not the *inductive* one, don't you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heavy Horse Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 A lot of the cheaper timers say in the instructions "not suitable for fluorescents or motors" so I just don't use them without a relay, for any CFL's whatever size or anything that has an inductive load...safer, and cheaper in the long run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scribb|e Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 english???? :wink: what u meen scribble? I mean that the rating you posted for your timers (13A 3120w MAX LOAD) is only for resistive loads (like radios, normal lights etc.) and *not* for inudctive loads (like electric motors and HID ballasts). The max. inductive loads that those timers can *safely* handle will be a lot less than 13A 3120W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Freddy Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 (edited) Maplins do a nice digital timer rated for 3A (720w) inductive load, 13A (3120w) resistive load. Less than a tenner Edited February 19, 2007 by Fat Freddy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike Hawkes Bigg Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 Just Do It Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durbboy Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 i agree...safety first.. i am lucky[wifes my timer] cause i dont even use a timer on my lights have 4 kids ..cant chance it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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