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Light Keeps Killing Timers


Paul Batchelor

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Wonder why my post got deleted? :)

What do you think about this timer? [Link]

Most timers can only switch up to 2A or 480watts of power, this timer can switch high impedance loads up to 4A (960watts).
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Wonder why my post got deleted? :rofl:

What do you think about this timer? [Link]

They are crap mate, I had one running 2x 125w CFL's which apparently (although i've probably been misinformed) has an inductive load of 450w and it buggered up after 1 day. Using a relay/contactor seems to be the best and safest way!

:rofl:

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If it blew up after 1 day i'd say there was a fault with the timer and would have got a refund :rofl:

this timer can switch high impedance loads up to 4A (960watts).

You were switching half that! faulty timer me thinks :rofl:

Edited by steevo
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this timer can switch high impedance loads up to 4A (960watts).

Is this the same as saying that it can safely switch an *inductive* load up to 4A, though? I suspect not, as I think that they would have used that terminology with this one, as they have done when they've mentioned it with their other timers.

it is ideal for switching on lamps/radios, etc. to give the impression a property is occupied.

Don't mention what kind of lamps, and I know that radios are very undemanding appliances in this respect.

I wouldn't trust this timer without a contactor either, TBH. :yahoo:

Edit: Also, even if what they said was synonymous with safe inductive load capacity, I reckon that those tolerances would be too close for comfort, anyway - you should have an excess capacity of at least 30%, IMHO.

Edited by Scribb|e
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  • 4 weeks later...

I hate to say it but it seems people are arguing to the teeth so they don't have to spend £20-40 on a contactor. Get one, if you think you need it or not Would you rather have your HOUSE BURN TO THE GROUND!

If you do a quick web serch you will find cheap contactors easily. I would love to recomend the uk420 shop, as all of us should be doing our most to support the 420 but the contactors in the store are prohibitaly expensive personaly. I know that they will take some stick but I really can't afford spending nearly £40 for a £20 contactor.

It's this simple. Would you give up an 1/4 to stop you from destroying at the very least a timer ever few weeks or possably killing you?

Ben

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I hate to say it but it seems people are arguing to the teeth so they don't have to spend £20-40 on a contactor. Get one, if you think you need it or not Would you rather have your HOUSE BURN TO THE GROUND!

If you do a quick web serch you will find cheap contactors easily. I would love to recomend the uk420 shop, as all of us should be doing our most to support the 420 but the contactors in the store are prohibitaly expensive personaly. I know that they will take some stick but I really can't afford spending nearly £40 for a £20 contactor.

It's this simple. Would you give up an 1/4 to stop you from destroying at the very least a timer ever few weeks or possably killing you?

Ben

I Agree just buy contactors hhhhhhhhhhhhhh :santa: ....if not for peace of mind then it will ..... yes ! Stop your timers Blowing every week .. :yinyang:

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Knowing how Joolz is with prices usually, that's probably as low is he can make it.

I just picked one up on ebay (I know, I know but I'm gunna get it tested by a sparky mate), it's really power house. It's a Maxibright 26amp with 8 sockets on 2 power strips and a timer in on the main box. A lot more than I need but perfect for my new grow space. It's a small area with a door in the middle; to shallow to grow where the door is so we're making it 2 mini rooms either side. It mean I can mount the contactor over the door and run a powerstrip to each 'room'.

I'm only looking to use either 2x400w or 2x600w (budget depending) but that contactor should run 11x250w or 5x600 or 7x400w or 3x1000w. Now before any smart arse checks my maths and finds this wrong I've worked it out from start-up amps as there's no point saying it'll run 5x1000w HPS but I can't take starting them up.

To be honast, considering it's a £115 contactor that I got for £45 I'm rather happy with myself.

BTW, the guys still got some on ebay. Not the same as mine but it's the same price. And he's got Eco Switch T6 as part of it.

Ben

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  • 1 month later...

There water heater timers availible in all electrical factor/plumbers merchants that are rated at 10 amp inductive loads.

They retail at £17 i think

Edited by ghettogrower
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If you think the UK420 shop is expensive try buying in you local hydro mate, :yahoo:

BUY A CONTACTOR!!!!!!!!!!

Edited by nav182
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YOU DON'T NEED A CONTACTOR!!

A suitably rated relay for around A FIVER will do the job just fine :doh:

The argos timer may well be suitable too, but I'd look into the specs of the switched contacts before I used one...

Edited by Fat Freddy
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YOU DON'T NEED A CONTACTOR!!

A suitably rated relay for around A FIVER will do the job just fine :)

The argos timer may well be suitable too, but I'd look into the specs of the switched contacts before I used one...

A relay and contactor are basically the same thing!

The point is they both use a coil to activate a switch, so that the heavier current to start and run the lights does not need to run through a timing switch, NOT DESIGNED FOR LARGE CURRENTS.

You need to understand this point! Open up a timer and you will quickly identify the SMALL relay inside. Now take a look at the gauge of the cable that runs from the live pin to the relay and ask yourself if you would wire up your lights with cable this size. You do need to understand the physics of this, it is fookin common dog!

I got my contactor on ebay for less than £10 inc post

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Hi Paul

If you need help with wiring a contactor just shout out and I'm sure I and/or many others will help.

It is probably the most common "cut corner" and the most common reason for electrical failures and fires.

Good Luck

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So would a suitably rated £5 relay do the job?

Are you saying that the argos timer uses under-rated wiring within its timers?

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