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Limited Edition Tangy Tree


RUFUS HOUND

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Righty ho, Ive put the following into my inkbird 310T - seems to be working but time will tell.

As my 310T doesnt have an inbuilt clock (none that I can see)  assume it starts from when you save the settings, so I saved it at 1900 when my lights come on.

there are lots more options which arent required, so I have left them set at whatever they are on and only changed the ones below.

 

 I want to control my temperature 28C for 12 hours at 12 hours at 25C.
Setting as followings:
HD=1, CD=1, (heating and cooling differential)
TR=1,
Set UT=H, (time measurement hours/mins/days)
STA=2, (No. of stages)
ST1=28, HT1=12 (stage 1, 28'C for 12hrs)
ST2=25 HT2 =12 (stage 2, 25'C for 12hrs)

 

hopefully it will change over to 25'c at 7am lights off:blub:

 

 

 

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All went well last night and the temperature settings have worked a treat, swapping over at 0700 to 25'C.

 

I lowered the low set point from 25 to 24'C but as suspected, due to having no clock time, it starts the 12 hour countdown from the time of saving the change, so I will have to set it again at 1900 to get the temps & times in sync.

Ive been reading that earlier models of the 310T had a clock, where the time could be set, later ones like mine just countdown.

Edited by RUFUS HOUND
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Ive got my lights set up to come on at 7pm and about 15 mins later the temp changes on the inkbird to 28'C.

This should allow to temp to warm up a bit with the heat from the lights before the inkbird turns the oil rad on to maintain at 28'C.

 

I might have another play with the timings and change the 28'C time set point to 11 hours and  24'C for 13 hours - this should have the heating (oil rad) turn on & off, during  the lights on time period.

 

:bangin:Ive had a thought (always dangerous) if this inkbird 310 can have uptoo 12 separate stages, I could in theory have the temps gradually increase / decrease with the lights on time, to sort of mimic what happens in nature with temps during sun rise and fall

so if I have if I had 4 stages I could have

24'C for  7hrs

26'C for 3hrs

28 for 11 hours 

26'C for 3hrs

then repeat

 

anyway, as usual, just me putting my random thoughts out there - what do you peeps think ?

 

input always appreciated as I cant see the wood for the trees sometimes lol

Edited by RUFUS HOUND
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I checked and none of my Inkbirds are T models,

which are the ones you can program like this :( 

 

Good luck experimenting with the settings.

 

One thing I'd consider is to gradually drop off the heat at the end of the day,

this should reduce the chances of RH spikes when the lights go off :) 

 

Atb

 

 

 

:yinyang:

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Cheers @Shumroom

 

shame about your inkbird - I think these are ment for home brewing but  I thought the separate times/temps function would be spot on for growing needs :yep:

 

this is the one i have

61fi-Ky-nuL.jpg

 

 

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The girls are under 240wish LED light at 700 PPFD in centre, falling off to about 500 at the very edges, thiis gives me a dli of 35.

I measured the distance from lights to canopy and its currently at 20 inches

 

Im using this chart from photone as a guide as I use the app for measuring PPFD/dli etc

If you havent got it yet - get it, its really easy to use and you can adjust your lights (height/dimmer) to get the correct amount of light your plant needs at different stages of growth.

 

I am also keeping an eye on the VPD (vapour  pressure deficit) helps me to see if Im in the correct zone for humidity / temp at different stages of growth.

using VPD buddy -  just input temp and humidity - simples

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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These are the settings I used to program the inkbird 310T - its ment for home brewing but I thought it would be good for closer control of the environment. ie programming in day and night temps:idea:

 

initially I set it with just 2 stages (2 different temperatures for 2 periods of time), basically 28'C for 12 hrs during lights on and 22'C for 12 hrs during lights off - nice and simple, 

it worked well but....with the lights off and the temperature reduction happening at the same time, this caused a big spike in humidity as the temps fell 

 

So, I extended the higher temp time by an hour, so when the lights go off, the temp is maintained at 28'C for an hour, this helps counter act the loss of the LED light before the temp then changes to 24'C...... better but requires fine tuning:geek:

 

settings I used inkbird 310T with multiple temperatures and times.

To keep the temperature 28°C for 13 hours and 24°C for 11 hours  

 

Press "SET" button for 3 to 5 seconds to enter the settings menu -.it will flash 
Each press of set button goes to next setting

HD = 1, (heating differential - how far under /over temperature set point, before heating turns eg oil rad on/off) 
CD = 1 (cooling differential - how far under /over temperature setting before, cooling takes effect eg fan on/off ) 
AH = 32 (High temp alarm)
AL = 18 ( Low temp alarm)
Pt = 0 ()compressor delay)
CA = 0 (temperature calibration)
CF = C (temperature units C or F )
tr = 1 (timer function, off =0 / on=1) 
UT = H (units of time  d=days, h=hours, m=mins) 
nd = 0 (number of cycles, 0 = continuous)
At = 1 (Auto restart after power outage, 1=on)
STA = 2, (Number of stages required 1 to 12) 
SSt = 1 (start stage setting) 
SO1 = 28 (stage 1 temperature setting)
HO1= 13 (stage 1 time setting) - set to hours earlier
UO1 = n (alarm)
SO2 = 24 (stage 2 temperature setting)
HO2 = 11 (stage 2 time setting)
UO2 = n (alarm)
 
then back to start HD = 1

 

Edited by RUFUS HOUND
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all, hope your all well and having success with your gardening exploits :smokin:

 

The inkbird programming needed a little tweaking but I think Ive cracked it.

 

I found the best way was to have lights on during the last 2 hours at 23.5'C, this makes the temps rise to about 26'C, so the inkbird turns the oil rad off until the temp set-point changes to 28'C. When the lights turn off (during 28'C time period) the oil rad kicks and catches the temp falling and brings it back to 28'C before the temp setting changes to 23.5'C.

 

Im sure this could be explained better but it sorta makes sense to me lol anywho the girls appear to be liking it and its saving me lecky to boot!

Ive been feeding with 4ml of tom food plus 4ml seaweed during the "stretch".

Now starting on 800ppm of chempak 2 for rest of flowering.

Light is approx 750 ppfd-centre of canopy which iis a DLI of about 35

Humidity is a bit high skirting 70% as I overwatered and soaked the sand bed but that is improving as the days pass and it dries out

 

large.654ec25d31ee5_TFday28flower.jpg

 

large.654ec24e2b19f_TFday28flowerfront.jpg

 

large.654ec2435d06e_TFday28flowercanopy.jpg.

 

 

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Forgot to mention - feeding  x 2 , followed by plain water to help reduce fertilisier build up in the compost.

 

when I water them tonight, I'll take a sample of the run off to see whats coming out 

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after testing with a finger, they didnt need watering tonight, so will water and test run off tonight.

Edited by RUFUS HOUND
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I couldnt be arsed measuring the run off and faffing about with saucers of water - so just watered them with plain water.

 

Ive just got a new EC/TDS/pH meter (thanks Santa) and its reading well above what my old TDS was showing - so maybe ive been over feeding the girls. I thought they were getting chubby.

 

OLD TDS = 700 ppm

New TDS = 845 ppm

          EC = 1692 uS/cm

          pH = 6.3

Test solution @ 21'C

 

if thats correct, I must have been giving them 950ppm instead of 800ppm - holy shit:censored: 

 

I did notice tonight the very tips of a few leaves on one girl (closest to oil rad) are starting to get "burnt" .

I should be feeding next but Im going to miss that and go for water only, curious what the runoff reading will show. 

 

 

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while Im at it,  heres the temps/humidity trends for lights on/off which show how well the the inkbird 310T day/night temperature settings are working out 

 

large.6556d7b1a785b_tempstart.jpglarge.6556d7cf28238_tempend.jpg

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