Joint hogger Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 mate, Ravi's website & instructions are piss poor & until I asked them for clarification about wiring the variac up safetly, they were giving out the wrong info & when a few other folk emailed them about wiring the variacs up, they were sending out my pics 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davey Jones Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 Use A & C @SamBell That will stop the transformer stepping up the voltage and ya max out will be mains voltage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamBell Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 (edited) lol, that's nuts. I had noticed already the dimensions they give for the 2F1 aren't accurate. My 2F1s need just over 100mm depth inside the case, but Ravi's diagram and table indicate it is 125mm. Maybe they were larger in the past? But even so, quality control would be nice :) E2A Cheers Davey, nice to have concrete confirmation. I wasn't ever really comfortable with the many connections on the variacs, and no surprise to see that is where I got it wrong. Edited October 7, 2017 by SamBell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamBell Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 OK, with the inputs moved to C it is now outputting mains-level at maximum. Now it does seem to be working correctly. Thank you all again. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamBell Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 This is the corrected wiring diagram for my build, if anyone wants to make the same as I have. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joint hogger Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 (edited) Mate, I have to say your build is very good & a lot of thought has went into it but when I look at your pic of where your going to place the controller, I was wondering that unless your using a seperate temp probe ?, then the temp might be different to what it is at the canopy level & you might need to tinker with the power setting on the dial. you also need to be careful with the cable routing if you are using a temp probe as electricity from other cable's close to the probe's cabling can affect the temp reading, you can get cable shielding's quite cheap & it's good at blocking out any interference. , Also, when I saw your pic of the wiring on the actual wiring, I was wondering how you connected the earth to the metal holding plate ? this is how I did mine, you need to unscrew the top plate & scrape a bit of paint of the metal housing around one of the screw hole's so that the earth make's a good contact, I used a bigger yellow crimp ring for illistration. forgot to say, you can get replacement 100% dial rings on ebay or you could get a red permanant red inky & mark out every 23rd power increment from 0 to 270v to show you 100% Edited October 8, 2017 by Joint hogger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamBell Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 Yo JH. One thing of note is that I am mid-flower, in a way I wanted to get something, anything, functional in there ASAP. There isn't really room to set up something optimal right now. Lots of criticisms of this build are valid, but I think I will be able to get by with workarounds and bodges until November when the crop lands. So I'm OK with the thermostat being a bit wrong, its setting can just accommodate its likely poor position. I just need to have this CH thermostat set a bit lower. I know there will be some calibration (let's call it that :) ) to do, and with light being 8pm to 8am any extra motivation to get me into the room at lights-on is good: to give them a feeding at lights-on, which means another is due when I go to bed. It's too easy to just leave it and give them one big feed, and with coco I don't think that's best. Another stop-gap I have thought of, to make sure the thermostat does change temperature responsively, is to colour it black. It is in direct light (that might change depending on growth/flopping). So whilst not canopy temperature the CH thermostat is still in a position to make a judgement :) The numbers on the Klimavator this box is replacing I never really believed, nor were accurate. I am used to some manual tweaking. This box has more scope for tweaking too, the Klimator only had buzzy variable slow, or flat-out. This CH thermostat is a basic mechanical one, and switches mains. Inside I think it is a bimetallic coil, which tightens or slacks off due to the two metals expanding at different rates. I doubt I will have signalling problems, but I will keep an eye on things if I move the CH thermostat. I think that manual grow-room fiddling is inevitable if you want good results. If you don't want to fiddle then you have to spend a bomb on some system that probably doesn't really do what the vendor claims, or accept lesser results. A grow room grows like the plants, but slower. Things evolve, things come and go, things get moved about. The position of this box might even change. I could make a big hole in the grow room door and mount the box in that. Controls are then outside the room, with the cables facing in. The door is already "destroyed", there's an oblong kitchen-hood filter and two round holes for ducted air from a window (filtered with fine net curtain). Another hole won't hurt, but no way am I risking sawdust whilst in flower! I have earthed the 'stats in the same place as you, but my ring-crimp is turned over compared to your picture, and turned 90 degrees away. It's then behind the black plate and metal mounting. I took off some paint, but the screw thread and screw are bare so I have relied on that somewhat. Probably should check the conductivity. No one ever seems to earth the big bolts holding the 'stats to the case. If anything, those nuts and bolts are stupid, a loose wire could make one live and the screw heads are right by the user controls. The paint insulates, so a mounting bolt becoming live might not even trip anything. Is earthing all the bolts a modification that should be done? I've been eyeing the tippex pen as a way to mark the scales. Or I could make-up some graphics and print them, stick them on and cover them with sticky-backed clear plastic. Cheers, SB 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joint hogger Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 you could always get nylon nuts & bolts instead of metal one's 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
francesca Posted October 7, 2018 Share Posted October 7, 2018 Any idea about this variac? Still need a box ? thank youhttps://www.ebay.co.uk/i/272778720447?chn=ps&ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-134428-41853-0%2F2%3Fmpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fi%252F272778720447%253Fchn%253Dps%26itemid%3D272778720447%26targetid%3D486151089286%26device%3Dm%26adtype%3Dpla%26googleloc%3D1006914%26poi%3D%26campaignid%3D1506016264%26adgroupid%3D56472527725%26rlsatarget%3Daud-494594439572%3Apla-486151089286%26abcId%3D1139596%26merchantid%3D115097992%26gclid%3DEAIaIQobChMInf_YuKP03QIV7ZPtCh321w8_EAQYBiABEgK5GPD_BwE%26srcrot%3D710-134428-41853-0%26rvr_id%3D1695145013662%26rvr_ts%3D4e66b26d1660ad4ee6e7fa41ffde69cb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joint hogger Posted October 7, 2018 Share Posted October 7, 2018 its a 3A variac & will do nicely, also, you dont need anything else as its ready to use out of the box. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
francesca Posted October 7, 2018 Share Posted October 7, 2018 15 minutes ago, Joint hogger said: its a 3A variac & will do nicely, also, you dont need anything else as its ready to use out of the box. 3.5 kg it think is to much . What weight have yours? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrock Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 Hi i bought this fan that has a temp and speed control.Blauberg 125mm centro G1,about 85 quid. a) I set the speed and the temp.b)When the temp raises over the set point,fan works at full speed. c)When temp drops under the set point,speed goes back to the set point . The diagram in picture above ,is from the next model that has an extra delay at the end. When the temp goes down from the set point,a delay timer is activated for 5min. Now , below there are 2 "spare" wires coming back from the temp control(red+brown).Could they be for the extra delay that the other model have?If this is the last delay in the row,have you got any other suggestion?What kind of relay will be usefull to add? Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somelad Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 just ordered myself a new in the box 2a ravistat 2f-1 for £30, what size crimp connectors will i need to order to wire it up, thanks somelad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somelad Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 (edited) @Laphroaig @Joint hogger what size crimp ring terminal do i need to wire a 2A ravistat thanks, also if anyone want to buy a variac ETE sell the 2amp ones for £53.50 with next day delivery Edited January 13, 2019 by somelad more info 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joint hogger Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 (edited) get the red crimp rings as they're for 1mm - 1.5mm cable thickness's, the blue rings are for 1.5mm - 2.5mm cables & lastly, the yellow rings are for 4mm - 6mm cables, on my 2A variac pics above, I used a yellow ring just to illustrate where the Earth connects onto the metal holding bracket, I used a red crimp ring. also somelad, just incase you dont have a crimp ratchet, you can do the crimps with needle nose pliers if you have them. forgot to add, depending if your using a thermostat or timer, you might also need insulated lucas female crimp connectors. Edited January 13, 2019 by Joint hogger 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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