Trichoderma Harzianum & Vesicular Arbuscular Mycorrhizas

[Felix Dzerzhinsky]

Thanks bart & Arbuscule.

I'm open to suggestions if you have any ?

Was thinking of maybe using one of those Mini-cab cards that keep coming through the front door and scraping the spores off, just thinking it might be a bit brutal on the little Trichoderma's still growing ?

[Davey Jones]

Brilliant read folks

Isn't it just felix has added a touch of magic to this thread and everyones got the bug (Tri003)

EM2

[Davey Jones]

scraping the spores off,

Man spores already, can you smoke them felix cos they have taken a lot less time than my shivas I can tell you.

Aren't you going for amber trichodermas

[withnail]

scraping the spores off,

Man spores already, can you smoke them felix cos they have taken a lot less time than my shivas I can tell you.

Aren't you going for amber trichodermas

:wink:

Couple of new thoughts

Firstly the LSF is clearly backin my grow room even though I had a real blast at sterilisation.I put in 5 plants that a friend had been growing for me and within 3 days 2 of they are covered in rust spots Luckily they are male but it proves how much of a bastard LSF is to get rid of.

I guess the good thing about it is that if the trichodermas and mycorrihizas win the day in my grow room we will know just how effective it is

So i've given my plants a blast of bayer fungus fighter as this helped immensely before ( i know its not organic ).I was going to give my new WW seedlings a blast when they are a little bigger but I'm guessing that this will kill any trichoderma I introduce correct?

Also after mixing up trichoderma powders I know I can't force them through a fine spray nozzle.Could I use a watering can to apply them or is this too random in its application?

This is a continually informative and knowledgeable thread, good work all involved

[Felix Dzerzhinsky]

Sorry to hear the LSF is back withnail, lets hope you can beat it with these inoculants. After all if you have the correct conditions for LSF then another fungi (albeit friendly) should fit right in.

Amber trichoderma's indeed EM2

Here's a group shot of the three plates I grew, what is interesting is the different amount of green (fruiting bodies/spores) in the dishes and can be explained. I grew these dishes in the dark at about 20C in my grow room in the belief that Trichoderma would require dark. That may not be true.

The top dish was the one that I took the most photo's of and was exposed to the most light, maybe 15 minutes every day. Next dish (in a clockwise direction) had a couple of pictures taken but didn't get taken out every day, so received much less sunlight. The final dish wasn't ever taken exposed to sunlight and maybe got just a couple of minutes of very dim light from a compact fluorescent lamp outside the grow room every day. It would seem Trichoderma H benefits from a little light

Here is the dish from above after I scrapped the spores off with a bit of card. I've washed it with sterile water and will see if it grows again.

Here's what I scrapped off drying on foil.

Next one I harvest I'm going to try using a very small artists paint brush to just dislodge the spores and tip them onto a piece of paper as I'm not totally happy with the card harvesting method

e2a:

Hi Niceone, glad you liked it

Edited November 3, 2007 by felix_dzerjinski

[bart]

found this not much info but some

A method of producing Trichoderma conidia in submerged culture comprises first preparing an inoculant of a desired strain of Trichoderma. Then, the inoculum is placed in a sufficient volume of a suitable liquid medium. The medium is maintained under substantially constant illumination, agitation and aeration at a temperature from about 25.degree. C. to about 30.degree. C., and a pH from about 5.8 to about 7.0. The culture is grown from a sufficient period of time until the density of conidia is about 5.0.times.10.sup.8 per ml, and then the conidia so produced are harvested. A similar method is provided for the production of Trichoderma chlamydospores.

[Felix Dzerzhinsky]

Thanks Niceone and nice find Bart.

I'll try three grows now, one in complete darkness, one with a little light each day and one grown in a normal light/dark cycle. Will be interesting to see what the results from that are.

If anyone wants to try this it's really easy, just search on Google for Potato Dextrose Agar and there are several companies selling it either as a dry powder or in preprepared petri dishes. The actual growing isn't difficult but I still haven't worked out a good harvesting method. I'll be trying a couple of suggestions tonight when we get back from the fireworks and if anyone has any other ideas I'd be glad to hear them.

Felix.

[Guest Mr P]

Also after mixing up trichoderma powders I know I can't force them through a fine spray nozzle.Could I use a watering can to apply them or is this too random in its application?

I'm also interested to know this, especially seeing I've obtained some canna trichoderma powder and want to spray them onto my leaf surfaces. Am I right in thinking that the best way to apply is a tiny bit of the powder (3mm back of a tea spoon) to 1 liter of water, added into pump up sprayer (not pumped up to full power?) adjust spray nozzle so the spray is not too fine, and spray all over?

Cheers

[Felix Dzerzhinsky]

I'm also interested to know this, especially seeing I've obtained some canna trichoderma powder and want to spray them onto my leaf surfaces. Am I right in thinking that the best way to apply is a tiny bit of the powder (3mm back of a tea spoon) to 1 liter of water, added into pump up sprayer (not pumped up to full power?) adjust spray nozzle so the spray is not too fine, and spray all over?

Cheers

Spot on Mr P and like Withnail says you can use a small watering can with a very fine rose on it. I've used both and had good coverage from them, the only advantage a sprayer has is it can wet both surfaces of the leaves.

[Guest Mr P]

I'm also interested to know this, especially seeing I've obtained some canna trichoderma powder and want to spray them onto my leaf surfaces. Am I right in thinking that the best way to apply is a tiny bit of the powder (3mm back of a tea spoon) to 1 liter of water, added into pump up sprayer (not pumped up to full power?) adjust spray nozzle so the spray is not too fine, and spray all over?

Cheers

Spot on Mr P and like Withnail says you can use a small watering can with a very fine rose on it. I've used both and had good coverage from them, the only advantage a sprayer has is it can wet both surfaces of the leaves.

Thanks mate

[Davey Jones]

Thanks Niceone and nice find Bart.

I'll try three grows now, one in complete darkness, one with a little light each day and one grown in a normal light/dark cycle. Will be interesting to see what the results from that are.

How bout 24/7 lighting could this be better or do they need darkness

[withnail]

Morning folks and fungi cultivators ordred the rockdust and bought some rootgrow, could anyone tell me where to get the Trichoderma, cant find it in the UK420 shop.

Regarding the mollasses and seaweed extract am I correct in assuming you only need apply one or the other to activate the Mycorrhizas?

Happy growing folks.

nice one

Hi mate. PM shopkeeper or joolz,I asked the same question last week and jools said te shop has some

As for the mollasses/seaweed extract I dunno so I'm going to play it safe and use both

[withnail]

Hi mate. PM shopkeeper or joolz,I asked the same question last week and jools said te shop has some

As for the mollasses/seaweed extract I dunno so I'm going to play it safe and use both

Morning withnail nice one m8. I would have thought just one or the other but I dunno for sure?

never thought I'd be getting into germ warfare.

bastard lsf take that

Me neither mate, when I started growing my biggest fear was spidermites but I think I'd take them any day over the LSF now Still it keeps it interesting huh

Just going to order my aktrivator now, then off to get my mollases and an airstone and I'm all set, like you say let battle commence

[Felix Dzerzhinsky]

Hello everybody,

Couple of pointers, Trichoderma H doesn't need activating and can be applied in plain water. Bacterial inoculants will need molasses and fungal inoculants will need seaweed extract, if you are using a mixed bacterial/fungal inoculant then use both. When applying all three activated the bacteria normally and then 15 or 20 minutes before applying throw in the Trichoderma H spores, the reason for this is they are quite delicate when they first geminate and could be damaged by vigorous bubbling.

Hope that helps,

Felix.

[Guest Mr P]

Afternoon folks.

I mixed up some Trichoderma powder this morning and sprayed my crop. But one thing I noticed straight away was, having no wetting agent mixed in meant that the spray wasn't saturating the foliage properly.

Is that going to be a problem?

Also, do you think adding a wetting agent to the Trichoderma power would be harmful to the spores?

Cheers,

Mr P