oldtimer1 Posted February 28, 2006 Author Share Posted February 28, 2006 Remove the wire [power out] from the habistat going to L1. Is the fan dimmer now working as it should? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCC Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 (edited) Yeah I tried that earlier to see it works if the Power out of the Habistat is not connected. The fan dimmer works without the power out connected. With the power out connected it somehow creates a loop within the habistat and lets power through even though the thermostat isn't at the correct temp?? I guess it doesn't sound good Any ideas? A relay wouldn't combat this would it if you put it between the habistat power out and L1? Thus eliminating this "loop" for when theres no power coming out the power out (relay off) and then creating the curcuit when the thermostat comes on. It would give it full power if its correct or not, if it's safe thats another question. Edited February 28, 2006 by OCC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bren Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 Wow this is a wicked thread Ot, i've been thinking along these lines of fans slowing with lights off, i still need to get a new fan and filter in the near future(new light and contactor this weekend fan next week end), i want a RVK 150mm L1 with matching filter for extraction i already have a RVK 100mm which i want to use as intake would it be possible to have both fans running at about 50% if it goes above 27 deg thermostat cuts in night or day and fans switch to full until temp drops, and when lights switch off the fans slow to 25%, enough to keep humidity down though and the temp constant, i've seen a circuit similar to this but how about using more than 1 fan, could both in/out take be wire together or would it cause lots of problems having diffrent size fans would a intake hole compensate the air pressure so when the big fan is on full and the little one is not supplying as much air to the room as is been removed so would a intake vent compensate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtimer1 Posted February 28, 2006 Author Share Posted February 28, 2006 Ok next. What happens if the fan wire and the power out wire are removed from L1 and connected together? ie does the habistat switch the fan on and off? Bren useing a honeywell T6360B stat you can switch up to 720 watts of inductive load, that is at least 4 mid sized rvk fans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCC Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 (edited) Doesn't like that either, power comes through but the Habistat is going funny. Do you think the neutral out of the PowerOut might have to be connect for the Habistat to work properly? I know in theory it shouldn't make a difference. Can it actually be anything else? edit: Just tried it against it working properly, and with the neutral coming directly from the mains. With neutral from mains it give the fan power without the DEVICE ON light on, when it gets to a certain temp the DEVICE ON light comes on, meaning the actual thermostat is working, just the fan is getting power somehow. edit again: Just tried a couple of other things, Could it be that the Habistat actually switches off the neutral and not the live? I know it probably wouldn't but just an idea. Edited March 1, 2006 by OCC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtimer1 Posted March 1, 2006 Author Share Posted March 1, 2006 In that case if it needs the switched neutral to work, you will need a relay as well do you want a revised drawing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bren Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 Thanks OT i was wondering more about the actuall wiring, For what i want which i would need to use? The diagram with 3 fsc or would the one with 2 Fsc do? As i need both fans in and out on the same settings, 1) both fans at about 75% fan speed lights on under 27deg, 2) lights off 25% fan speed both fans 3)if temp rises above set temp at any time both fan 100% also on you diagram you only show the brown wire (live) does the netural wire need conecting to all components use. Also what light relay and change over relay be suitable, where can they be bought do you know cat. no. ? is it a light relay the same as a contactor and do you need to make a home contactor for this or will a normal purchased one work like the ones uk420 shop spells or are these diffrent things ? thanks for you pateints Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCC Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 Yes please ot1. I will order a relay have you got any advice on what to get? Many thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtimer1 Posted March 1, 2006 Author Share Posted March 1, 2006 I already gave info on octal based relays above you can prob get a plugin 240v coil octal, a base and cover for about a fiver at maplins. Ok £6.58p Powr Rly 240VAC DPDT JG60Q £4.29 Rly Socket 10A 8-Pin JG54J £2.29 Revised diagram Bren its too complex to draw in all the lives, earths and neutrals in, but yes they need connecting to everything that needs a neutral and earth. Just extend the concept if the first drawing to cover all the modules. If you use an hid light you need a contactor or relay to switch the light, you can take a switched feed from either the relay/contactor or time switch to control the night setting. I don’t understand what is not clear, with each speed controller you preset to the speed you want for the period. Edited to add, a Honeywell room stat only costs about a tenner at a good electrical wholesalers or plumbers merchants. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCC Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 (edited) Thank you again ot1, greatly appreciate the time you've taken the draw them all for me. I can't see it not working after I get the relay so heres to it Are the relays easy to wire? The live & neutral from power out will never get through the relay right? Will just be purely a "remote" switch if that is the right word? Edited March 1, 2006 by OCC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtimer1 Posted March 1, 2006 Author Share Posted March 1, 2006 Yes the live and neutral from the habistat only supply power to the relay coil. The relay is double pole, each pole is a change over switch, you just use one of the poles, wiring the dimmer across the dimmer with the normally open open contacts, [at no power to the coil] when the coil is powered the contacts close overiding the dimmer. Its easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtimer1 Posted March 2, 2006 Author Share Posted March 2, 2006 I have had a lot of members asking me for a how to diy on this, in some ways I wish I had not started to answer this question as it has evolved into something I did not mean it to. So a few comments Fan dimmers and the thermostat should be mounted on surface boxes, the octal relay is best if fitted in a small enclosure with an 35mm DIN rail which the plugin base just clips onto. All the boxes can be mounted on a board. Wires from the boxes to plugs and fans should be retained with proper cable clamps or stuffing glands. I don’t intend to take this futher or make a parts list. If anyone wants to make a diy project with pics showing how its done, fine! I will help if needed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RAZ Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 Or point them here OT .... RAZ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtimer1 Posted March 2, 2006 Author Share Posted March 2, 2006 This is in no way disrespect RAZ, but all flexible cables that go external to boxes should be retained by a stuffing gland or clamp, see pic below. This stops all movement of wires connecting to terminal or the possibility of the wires being pulled out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bren Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 right if someone could answeer this apart from ot as i think he's done enough i do not have a contactor for my light at the moment only using a 250hps however i wanna get a 600 hps and another fan an run one of the systems with 2 to 3 FSC so would i need to get 2 of these Powr Rly 240VAC DPDT JG60Q Rly Socket 10A 8-Pin JG54J 1 for the light relay contactor built like shown in the diy contactor thread and then another for the fans like shown in pic which is fed from the light one is this right 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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