ripthedrift Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 sorry im in black background so will sort it out now ........... thanks for telling me .............. :rofl: How did you get that sorted mate? PA bottom of the page next to the rss feeds its says skin selector green or black I use black it looks well and having firefox with the Hempera cannabis theme its looking well cool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puff Adder Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 Thanks dude, makes a welcome change! Busy installing the hemperor theme too to check it out. I'm liking the black, less bright and in your face and somewhat more discreet too PA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripthedrift Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 (edited) Thanks dude, makes a welcome change! Busy installing the hemperor theme too to check it out. I'm liking the black, less bright and in your face and somewhat more discreet too PA no probs dude yeah the hemperra theme is very kool, I sent an email to him to see if they will do an update for it and the black is very cool on my eyes E2A and much better for viewing good pictures to ............. Edited July 10, 2010 by ripthedrift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artificial Emotion Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 i would not add the liquid back through just water it down to 10 to 1 ratio and feed plants or add a little sugar and bubble with an air pump do get rid of bad bacteria.anything that adds air is great for worm ive used rock dust and shells but my no.1 recomendation is plenty of airy bedding as ive hit moisture problems in the past Seconded As far as I'm aware it's normally only not worth using when it smells bad and it only smells bad because of all the anaerobic bacteria (those which thrive in low oxygen environments) that have colonised the leachate. As soon as you get oxygenating that stuff the aerobic bacteria (good guys) neutralize all the bad stuff. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong but that's my understanding thus far. PA It would be better if you could somehow figure a way of it staying aerobic in the first place, because when it gets significantly below 6ppm O2 for long periods of time the beneficial foodweb is taken over by anaerobes which multiply and become the predominant bacteria present. So, when you then aerate it, creating aerobic conditions above 6ppm, the diversity of the beneficial foodweb has already been lost permanently and hence the main benefits are lost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotofago Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 i would not add the liquid back through just water it down to 10 to 1 ratio and feed plants or add a little sugar and bubble with an air pump do get rid of bad bacteria.anything that adds air is great for worm ive used rock dust and shells but my no.1 recomendation is plenty of airy bedding as ive hit moisture problems in the past Seconded As far as I'm aware it's normally only not worth using when it smells bad and it only smells bad because of all the anaerobic bacteria (those which thrive in low oxygen environments) that have colonised the leachate. As soon as you get oxygenating that stuff the aerobic bacteria (good guys) neutralize all the bad stuff. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong but that's my understanding thus far. PA It would be better if you could somehow figure a way of it staying aerobic in the first place, because when it gets significantly below 6ppm O2 for long periods of time the beneficial foodweb is taken over by anaerobes which multiply and become the predominant bacteria present. So, when you then aerate it, creating aerobic conditions above 6ppm, the diversity of the beneficial foodweb has already been lost permanently and hence the main benefits are lost. so ... when the leachate comes out is it already anaerobic or does it only get that way if you leave it lying there? also - any reason you couldnt have a wee digi temp/humidity gauge in there to monitor their environment for omptimal conditions? and I still dont get the carbon/charcoal Rip ... loadsa room for a micro herd, right, but they live under the pee waterfall ... what do they do with it? eat it and multiply thus adding to the micro life count in the final pee? but they're air breathers right? so back to my first question - dont they airate the pee? Sorry for all the Qs - I really want to build one of these, but (to borrow a sartorial phrase) I always measure twice and cut once. (fuck it I'm a proud stoner - might take me forever to get things done, but I'll be bent over and buggered if it they aint done right!) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripthedrift Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 (edited) i would not add the liquid back through just water it down to 10 to 1 ratio and feed plants or add a little sugar and bubble with an air pump do get rid of bad bacteria.anything that adds air is great for worm ive used rock dust and shells but my no.1 recomendation is plenty of airy bedding as ive hit moisture problems in the past spot on Seconded :wink: As far as I'm aware it's normally only not worth using when it smells bad and it only smells bad because of all the anaerobic bacteria (those which thrive in low oxygen environments) that have colonised the leachate. As soon as you get oxygenating that stuff the aerobic bacteria (good guys) neutralize all the bad stuff. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong but that's my understanding thus far. PA spot on It would be better if you could somehow figure a way of it staying aerobic in the first place, because when it gets significantly below 6ppm O2 for long periods of time the beneficial foodweb is taken over by anaerobes which multiply and become the predominant bacteria present. So, when you then aerate it, creating aerobic conditions above 6ppm, the diversity of the beneficial foodweb has already been lost permanently and hence the main benefits are lost. spot on so ... when the leachate comes out is it already anaerobic or does it only get that way if you leave it lying there? also - any reason you couldnt have a wee digi temp/humidity gauge in there to monitor their environment for omptimal conditions? and I still dont get the carbon/charcoal Rip ... loadsa room for a micro herd, right, but they live under the pee waterfall ... what do they do with it? eat it and multiply thus adding to the micro life count in the final pee? but they're air breathers right? so back to my first question - dont they airate the pee? Sorry for all the Qs - I really want to build one of these, but (to borrow a sartorial phrase) I always measure twice and cut once. (fuck it I'm a proud stoner - might take me forever to get things done, but I'll be bent over and buggered if it they aint done right!) As the worms move back and forth through the food layer back in to the bedding mix (I would use part composted bark for bedding) they help to keep it aerated by trapping oxygen in the mucus lining thats left in the burrows behind them. As the moisture/leachate/liquid is passing through the mix it will pick up the oxygen from the burrows, when the liquid passes through the layers of worm-casts/bedding/sand/charcoal there is enough oxygen left to be trapped within the multi layered/open pores of the charcoal to keep it from going anaerobic leaving it sweet ........... as was said above bubble it further to encourage a good strong bloom of beneficials any reason you couldnt have a wee digi temp/humidity gauge in there to monitor their environment for omptimal conditions? yeah should be cheap enough to get a small wirless remote monitoring data logger for temps/moisture and oxygen. I will find one for you but give me a few days on that one hope that clears it up for my green friends E2A interesting fact on worms A metric tonne of worm bio-mass will consume a metric tonne of sludge in a 24 hours (approx) leaving a reduction in volume of up to 90% with no obvious bio-accumulation of heavy metals but also reducing there presence, leaving them in a chelateable none soluble form ........... Edited January 13, 2011 by ripthedrift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotofago Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Cool, thanks Rip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete0000 Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 who needs hydro with all this mucky fun on hand :wink: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J90 Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 My worms don't look to be eating anything! How much should you feed and how often I have put quarter a kg of worms in my setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nunsacred Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 I've had a little wormery going strong for almost 2 years now I decided that my massive bag of old vape dust would be a good source of carbon and tipped that in there. Since then, the population of worms seems to have taken a distinct downturn. It may be co-incidence (this was at the start of the heatwave) but it seems like I poisoned the worms with vape dust Anyway I'm starting to see them in the top section again now so recovery is underway but I don't really dare put my old vape dust in there again unless someone else says they do this & it's fine.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coverking Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 im getting into my wormery and all types of shite really part of the deal with organics ha! if you would have asked me this last year i would have laughed and jabbed you with my PH pen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowery Haze Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 Worms are good for eating those root balls fan, leaves stalks and stems and general leaf matter leftovers from hash making. They adore bananas, which are rich in potassium, as well as coffee grinds as a treat. Have had my farm going for a good 5 years now and its definitely something I would highly recommend as part of any grow. Never done hydro, dont think I would due to all the fun things you would miss out on and the stuff you can learn from plants and nature. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
litweed11 Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 great topic . am growing worms too , at big scale tho . would like to add that they love rotting carrots and pumpkin . water melon leftovers too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby plankton Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 what a superb thread,its going to take quite a bit of reading for it to make sense but im going to get something going myself,thanks for all the information people have posted here,who needs books! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puff Adder Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 (edited) I took a bit of a sabbatical from my worm farming hobby, wasn't at home for a few months and forgot to get someone to check in on them and feed them if needed. Came back and saw that the population had shrunk a lot, but there were still quite a few left, no food left, just castings which was a nice surprise. I started feeding them again and all of a sudden there was a massive explosion of egg laying, next thing the whole farm was just teeming with baby wrigglers. I've been taking out handfuls and establishing populations elsewhere. I also keep adding worms to my compost heaps. I dig a hole in the top, dump the worms in and then cover them back up again. I don't think I really need to bother with this as the worms seem to have already got into the piles somehow, but a few more surely can't hurt! The piles have progressed beyond the thermophilic (hot) stage so it's safe to add the worms to finish the job and make sure that I am left with the best compost I can possibly make.I love my worms Edited June 19, 2014 by Puff Adder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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