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Disaster with cuttings using heat mat


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As already mentioned above, use an inkbird or similar thermostatic controller  with the probe inside an empty moist plug (coco/rockwool or small pot of soil), set to 26c and don't have the cuttings directly on the bottom of the propagator with the heat mat underneath, have them raised a little. I use an old plastic mini cube rockwool tray and sit coco plugs on top of that (some use a layer of clay pebbles) and also add a little water to the bottom of the propagator around 5mm depth. This will help to keep the plugs/medium moist for longer as using a heat mat eventually causes the plugs to dry out as not all propagators are completely air tight. Check periodically to make sure plugs are damp and not dried out, roots within 5 to 14 days depending on the strain, peace

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 02/04/2021 at 3:53 PM, lennyd79 said:

The point of my post was to warn people that heat mat can cause issues. 

 

So can nutrients. And light. And C02. And water. 

 

If you don't use something to regulate the heat, you're bound to cook anything you put on top of them. 

 

Besides, heat mats are a bit of a waste of money unless your cloning area is very small. You're better off with cable or underfloor heating by the square meter and an inkbird.

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On 05/04/2021 at 1:03 AM, nigelpotter said:

As already mentioned above, use an inkbird or similar thermostatic controller  with the probe inside an empty moist plug (coco/rockwool or small pot of soil), set to 26c and don't have the cuttings directly on the bottom of the propagator with the heat mat underneath, have them raised a little. I use an old plastic mini cube rockwool tray and sit coco plugs on top of that (some use a layer of clay pebbles) and also add a little water to the bottom of the propagator around 5mm depth. This will help to keep the plugs/medium moist for longer as using a heat mat eventually causes the plugs to dry out as not all propagators are completely air tight. Check periodically to make sure plugs are damp and not dried out, roots within 5 to 14 days depending on the strain, peace

 

All due respect, you don't need to do any of that and some of it will only increase the chance of problems. 

 

Put your probe under your tray and set it at 25+/-1c 

You don't have to be more specific than that. To keep your cuts moist, use capillary matting. 

 

Extra deep jiffys are the best for regulating the moisture level of the cuttings. Much better than any cubes I've ever used. 

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On 22/04/2021 at 1:02 PM, JesusChrist said:

 

All due respect, you don't need to do any of that and some of it will only increase the chance of problems. 

 

works for me Jesus, what's the increased chance of problems you speak of?

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i think props are a pain and slow things down, just stick some compost in the bottom of a party cup, moisten, stick your cutting in, lid on, tape up hole and you have mini props that don't dry out with a perfect little humid atmosphere. heat mats are well worth the money also, mine are ten years old now and a lot easier to move about than under floor heat matting.

large.6081435a01890_discobiscuit.jpg

 

 

Edited by ratdog
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8 hours ago, ratdog said:

 heat mats are well worth the money also, mine are ten years old now and a lot easier to move about than under floor heat matting.

 

They're worth it if your cloning area is small like yours. Heat matting rolls up and fits into a 5" square box when not in use.

 

High dome propagators and extra deep jiffy pellets are the best balance between speed efficiency and reliability Imo 

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8 hours ago, nigelpotter said:

 

works for me Jesus, what's the increased chance of problems you speak of?

 

Sitting them in water invites more problems than it solves, and raising them is needless messing around. With a decent mat & thermostat and your probe set underneath the tray itself you'll never have a problem with overheating and with extra deep jiffys and some capillary matting never a problem with dry or overly wet plugs.

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2 hours ago, JesusChrist said:

 

Sitting them in water invites more problems than it solves, and raising them is needless messing around. 

 

no...like I said works for me 

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10 hours ago, JesusChrist said:

 

They're worth it if your cloning area is small like yours. Heat matting rolls up and fits into a 5" square box when not in use.

 

High dome propagators and extra deep jiffy pellets are the best balance between speed efficiency and reliability Imo 

 

 

i use mine all year round in clone/veg tent and flower tent, why just use for cloning? they keep to roots warm at a much cheaper price than anything else i've used.

 

i disagree with your last statement, but that's just my opinion, party cups in the veg tent work very well and no need to disrupt the environment when checking the roots.

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On 25/04/2021 at 9:58 AM, ratdog said:

 

 

i use mine all year round in clone/veg tent and flower tent, why just use for cloning? they keep to roots warm at a much cheaper price than anything else i've used.

 

i disagree with your last statement, but that's just my opinion, party cups in the veg tent work very well and no need to disrupt the environment when checking the roots.

 

Fair enough, but then that begs the question, why would you want to be moving it around?

If you're keeping it in place for veg and flower, which makes sense, then it's a moot point that it's easier to move about than an underfloor heating system. 

 

Like I say, if you're heating anything more than a very small space then the heat mats sold for gardening are uneconomical and inefficient. 

 

Decoupling membrane and loose cabling is the best investment you'll make in a tent which gets cool in the winter, followed closely by a basic underfloor rollout mat. 

Edited by JesusChrist
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On 25/04/2021 at 2:24 AM, nigelpotter said:

 

no...like I said works for me 

 

I don't doubt it, but the fact remains that standing water only increases the chance of rot. 

 

If you try capillary matting and extra deep jiffys you'll see how much better it is. Don't take my word for it, give it a try on your next round of clones

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10 hours ago, JesusChrist said:

Like I say, if you're heating anything more than a very small space then the heat mats sold for gardening are uneconomical and inefficient. 

 

 

depends on what you call heating? i use it to keeps the roots warm at lights out and in the cold months, no need for extra heating at that time, and they are certainly very efficient. the lights do the rest.

 

i'm just telling you what works for me after spending 12+ years doing indoor regularly.

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Likewise @ratdog, I'm just sharing what I've found to be the best method of keeping roots warm after also over a decade of growing indoors. 

 

I use it for the same reason. I also started with basic gardening mats and they do a job admittedly, but once you use the underfloor systems you will realise they're a much better way of doing that particular job, without question. 

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Here, I'll tell you what, if at any point you're curious about it or have a few quid burning a hole in your pocket for upgrades, or even just so you know it exists and to have in mind, have a look at this stuff Membrane & Heating cable

 

Honestly mate it's fucking sweet. Proper clean, efficient, and customisable perfectly for whatever space you want to heat - I mean you could theoretically heat just the outside of an area if you wanted to keep that for clones etc etc. Gets cheaper the bigger the area you're trying to do as well. 

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1 minute ago, JesusChrist said:

but once you use the underfloor systems

 

 

i work with them regularly mate, i understand about them, so i use a 100w version in my tents, personally i don't want them to be any more powerful, mine work just fine. the heat mats are exactly the same as under floor heating, just lower watts in my case, the ones i fit are usually 150 watts, sometimes 200w per metre.

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