Trichoderma Harzianum & Vesicular Arbuscular Mycorrhizas

[Guest]

I'm going to try this product from the Fungi Perfecti website (Paul Stamets - Mycologist):

http://www.fungi.com/product-detail/product/mycogrow-soluble-1-oz.html

I have read one of Paul's books (Psilocybin Mushrooms of the World), and watched 2 talks (TED - 6 Ways Mushrooms can change the World, and The Future is Fungi) and I am now looking at his MycoGrow product as it could be some really good shit.

Some of you may already be aware, but I wanted to post in this thread as it seems to be the correct home for it.

[Hot_Rock]

Anybody tried out the Xtreme Azos or Xtreme Mykos that you can get at Greens? I'm curious to know if either can be watered in directly to the root ball? Or do they work the same way as PM Granules?

[Herbal Kint]

You can use essence as drench as far as i now. I never heard of two above products.

[Hot_Rock]

Im too lazy to brew it, too much pissing about

[oldtimer1]

If you want simple, quite honestly there is a brit product that contains everything in both the products you mentioned and a tenners worth will set you up for a grows, look for TNC MycorrHydro, small company , pure spore mix no fillers and not a corporate yank multinational creaming the canna industry.

[Stan!]

@@oldtimer1 would that product be ok on soil ..

[uBercaMeL]

Be fine, most mycorrzhizal fungi wont do much in hydroponics anyway, incidentally. TNC are a bit try-hard with their sciencey-sounding names fwiw, and much like granules mycorrhydro has redundant ectomycorrhizal species (they associate with trees only). They do a mycorrEndo product too, which contains none of the pointless ectos, but also none of the bacterial species (available seperately as Bactorr-S13).

Azos = 1 bacterial species (Azospirillum Brasilense). Mykos = 1 mycorrhizal species (intradices).

[Badders]

Be fine, most mycorrzhizal fungi wont do much in hydroponics anyway, incidentally. TNC are a bit try-hard with their sciencey-sounding names fwiw, and much like granules mycorrhydro has redundant ectomycorrhizal species (they associate with trees only). They do a mycorrEndo product too, which contains none of the pointless ectos, but also none of the bacterial species (available seperately as Bactorr-S13).

Azos = 1 bacterial species (Azospirillum Brasilense). Mykos = 1 mycorrhizal species (intradices).

So although the description on there website says its for hydro, you would still suggest using mycohydro for compost based grow?

thanks dude, read a few of you posts this morning, very handy, specially the points you made about coco vs comp. ty.

[Stan!]

Just seen some post about this on another forum a checked it out , looks/sounds pritty cool ... What do you think guys

Hydrotops bactivator

Bactivator is a 100% organic bio-stimulation and the natural foundation of a healthy hydroponic, coco or soil growing system. By naturally recreating the conditions found in good, rich, organic topsoil, Bactivator offers unrivalled bio-stimulation leading to enhanced compact vegetative growth and the potential for profuse flower and fruit production later in the cycle. Bio-stimulation is seen in nature as the symbiotic or mutually beneficial relationship between bacteria, fungi and the root system of their host plant. The colonisation at the root zone by these beneficial microbes directly stimulates cellular function and root growth in your plants.

Bactivator also provides a natural microbial defence system to resist fungal infections such as pythium and phytopythoria by removal of their food sources, which in turn prevents the fungal infection taking hold. Having a strong symbiotic root relationship with these essential beneficial microbes also ensures your plant has a greater resistance to pest attack.

Bactivator is supplied as two components: the first is a unique mixture of over 40 carefully selected and cultured beneficial microbes and fungi in a latent state specially blended with amino acids and extracts of Fulvic and Humic acid. The blend will remain stable in this state indefinitely until activated. Once activated, the microbes in Bactivator attach themselves to the root hairs and take the waste products from root functions and convert them into usable plant nutrients to ensure nutrients and oxygen remain at optimal levels during all stages of crop growth.

The second component is a liquid blend of plant hormones, enzymes, amino acids and microbial catalysts designed to stimulate root function and sustain the microbial culture during the initial stages of inoculation.

Bactivator should be added to the nutrient reservoir on a weekly basis to maintain good microbial balance at the root zone. Bactivator can also be used in conjunction with any nutrient concentrate to enhance biological activity at the root zone. However, for the best result we recommend using as part of the complete HYDRoToPS biOpOnic nutrient programme.

If you have not used Bactivator before and experience a root infection in your crop, we recommend double dosing with (activated) microbes only. Activate the microbes (2 doses in 500ml tepid/25 °C water and allow to stand for 30 minutes) If you can aerate the microbial solution before use this will increase its effectiveness of combating the root infection. Add immediately to the nutrient solution but DO NOT add the liquid catalyst in this application.

One final caveat when working with natural microbial products such as Bactivator, Triple F, and Top Heavy Crop is that it is essential that you DO NOT use hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) with these products. Doing so will severely restrict the effectiveness of the microbes. H2O2 based products are used to add oxygen to the nutrient solution as well as acting as a disinfectant The carefully selected blend of micro organisms in our products not only keep your root free of potential infections they also regulate the availability of oxygen directly at the root zone where it is needed most.

Whilst avoiding peroxide based products, it is also advisable to maintain the temperature at the root zone between 17 to 19 °C. During the summer months it is not always possible to maintain your nutrient temperature within this range, however our microbial products will continue to work up to a temperature of 30 °C without reduced effectiveness.

Using hydrogen peroxide during the summer months to add oxygen and to prevent root disease is a common practice. Whilst this may work to some degree, considering a nutrient chillier is an effective alternative.

Some companies advocate that microbes in hydroponic systems perform no useful function. We know they do! HYDRoToPS were the first company to research microbial symbiosis in hydroponics in 1996. Ask any HYDRoToPS grower if Triple F, Bactivator or THC work! Try these products for yourself and see the difference, you won’t be disappointed!

biOpOnic Bactivator is available in 10 & 25 dose packs. (Each dose treats 50 litres of nutrient solution)

[rick19011]

Very interesting thanks Stan.

[GB12345]

Who's the king of this post? Could anyone please Provide me with all thy knowledge one holds on all things trichoderma and mycorrhizas. Thanks kindly 

[GB12345]

How do i get notifications on this post if i forget to check the box that notifies me? Noob question my bad!

[blackpoolbouncer]

14 hours ago, GB12345 said:

Who's the king of this post? Could anyone please Provide me with all thy knowledge one holds on all things trichoderma and mycorrhizas. Thanks kindly 

Mate, your asking for hundreds of hours of research on a subject you could do a phd on. I havent got hours to share all the knowledge I hold and im by no means an expert on the subject.

 

Its a bit like asking for someone to share all that they know about growing weed. Id start by reading this entire thread and google any questions that pop up as you go along. Theres also a few other threads with good input in. 

 

If you still have any questions, come back here with them, give me an @ and we can further the discussion with valuable input that ist being repeated. 

 

 

How much knowledge do you want? 

Edited October 25, 2019 by blackpoolbouncer

[GB12345]

3 hours ago, blackpoolbouncer said:

Mate, your asking for hundreds of hours of research on a subject you could do a phd on. I havent got hours to share all the knowledge I hold and im by no means an expert on the subject.

 

Its a bit like asking for someone to share all that they know about growing weed. Id start by reading this entire thread and google any questions that pop up as you go along. Theres also a few other threads with good input in. 

 

If you still have any questions, come back here with them, give me an @ and we can further the discussion with valuable input that ist being repeated. 

 

 

How much knowledge do you want? 

As much as I can possess and I would read the whole article but it steered of course and leaves me thinking if it worth scanning through.. didn't know whether someone had it to hand for like a copy and paste. Thanks anyway 

[WillH5080]

Stan, thank you!