Trichoderma Harzianum & Vesicular Arbuscular Mycorrhizas

[sixpots]

This is most interesting to me Peter,as i have been using Canna coco for a long time now with no problems with lsf

I recently thought i'd try a compost grow for a change really and its been plagued with the shite

I went into the compost grow a bit blind and did'nt use anything to prevent against lsf

I now feel more positive of future grows as they will be in coco

Thanks for a great thread to everybody involved

[Arbuscule]

Thank you moderators for pinning this thread. Nice one Felix for starting it and cheers to all contributors - it's turning into an ongoing learning experience. Seems to me that this kind of collective effort is one of the things that uk420 excells at. Cheers all,

Arbuscule

[established1976]

Hello everybody,

Couple of pointers, Trichoderma H doesn't need activating and can be applied in plain water. Bacterial inoculants will need molasses and fungal inoculants will need seaweed extract, if you are using a mixed bacterial/fungal inoculant then use both. When applying all three activated the bacteria normally and then 15 or 20 minutes before applying throw in the Trichoderma H spores, the reason for this is they are quite delicate when they first geminate and could be damaged by vigorous bubbling.

Hope that helps,

Felix.

The rockdust won't get used until the Mycorrhizal fungi get to work so no worries about it going off. The VAM fungi in RootGrow and other fungal inoculants will unlock the minerals in Rockdust well within the time scales we are dealing with, if you are not using fungal inoculants then yes Rockdust will take ages to be used. I mix mine up a couple of weeks before use but you could just as easily mix it in just before you fill the pots. The only advantage to mixing several weeks earlier is if you are inoculating with bacterial inoculants then, don't use fungal inoculants until there are live roots in the compost.

Hope that helps.

Felix.

1) Mollasses

2) Seaweed Extract

3) Pinetum Rockdust

4) Rootgrow (Mycorrhizal)

5) Canna Trichoderma Powder

Ok I just need seeweed extract from the above list, my question is : if the seaweed extract and rockdust is for the rootgrow mycorrhizal fungi, then what is the mollasses for? Is it beneficial to the trichoderma?

And what seaweed extract is recommended?

[Davey Jones]

Ok I just need seeweed extract from the above list, my question is : if the seaweed extract and rockdust is for the rootgrow mycorrhizal fungi, then what is the mollasses for? Is it beneficial to the trichoderma?

And what seaweed extract is recommended?

Mollasses is for bacteria, mate bubbling inoculant in mollasses builds up the population of bacteria then we apply it.

It is advisable in flower to water with a mollasses mixture every couple of weeks to feed the bacteria in your compost.

Trichoderma is a fungi and fungi like a relatively calmer enviroment for fungi like trichoderma nd rootgrow etc. we use seaweed extract to help them along.

Theres two good seaweed extracts (That I know of)

Maxicrop seaweed extract

SM3 seweed extract (Chase organic catalogue)

Regards

EM2

[Felix Dzerzhinsky]

:rofl:

Thank you mods for pinning this topic

[Felix Dzerzhinsky]

Better late than never, these pictures were taken last weekend and shows the 3 dishes that have been used previously. Top one has been kept in the dark, next one in a clockwise direction has been kept in the light As Bart pointed out they do seem to benefit from some light which seems counterintuitive as their natural environment is always dark and the final one has been harvested (unsuccessfully I might add) and was kept to check how much regrowth would occur, not a lot really.

A couple of closeups showing the green fruiting bodies, these start off as white cotton wool like growths and gradually turn green as the spores mature I guess

The dishes were kept and after a further 5 days they weren't showing any more growth.

Edited November 16, 2007 by felix_dzerjinski

[withnail]

Better late than never, these pictures were taken last weekend and shows the 3 dishes that have been used previously. Top one has been kept in the dark, next one in a clockwise direction has been kept in the light and the final one has been harvested (unsuccessfully I might add) and was kept to check how much regrowth would occur, not a lot really.

A couple of closeups showing the green fruiting bodies, these start off as white cotton wool like growths and gradually turn green as the spores mature I guess

The dishes were kept and after a further 5 days they weren't showing any more growth.

Looks like a collection of tea cups I used to keep in my bedroom when I was a very messy young lad

So have you harvested the rest yet?And then once harvested can you keep these is powder form for as long as you like?

BTW I have treated my white widow with the trichoderma/rootgrow/rockdust /molasses/ seaweed extract and other inoculants, a couple of days ago.I have kept most WW in the veg room but put on into the contaminated flowering room yesterday.

The last LSF showed within 5 days so it will be interesting to see if any signs show in the next couple of days, fingers crossed.

[Felix Dzerzhinsky]

It will be an interesting battle going on in your grow area Withnail. In your case the inoculant is being used to treat rather than prevent which is it's usual role so it may be necessary to re-apply somewhat more often to stop the LSF getting a grip on new growth. Can't say for sure but you are something of a test case for this scenario, keep us all informed if it's not too much hassle.

Harvesting I hear you say, well yes I have hit upon an idea. I tried scrapping the spores off but that didn't work so I've left them to dry out this week and tomorrow I'll have a go at harvesting them. If that's successful then I'll inoculate two plates with the spores and test that they grow out. One plate will be grown in the dark and the other in the light (thanks Bart ). I'm assuming providing the spores are kept dry and reasonably cool they will last quite a while, what may be useful is finding some kind of inert filler to dilute the spores down that won't kill anymore of Doc Benway's sprayers.

Here's a picture of the two plates that have dried for several days.

[Arbuscule]

Hi Felix,

Just to pick up on Withnail's point about storage.

It will be interesting to see if the spores, once dried, can be transfered to a container and stored.

Wondering about what would be the most useful container too. Would any airtight container be ok ?

Peace all

Arbuscule

[Felix Dzerzhinsky]

I'm guessing here but I should imagine any airtight container would be just fine.

[Davey Jones]

Those jars look well manky mate, its penicilin aint it

[scoobs]

Those jars look well manky mate, its penicilin aint it

I think that I have some of that in my fridge

I caught a quick peek at Felix earlier when I was looking around tinternet....

.... only kidding Felix

I've got my bacteria bubbling away with some mollasses now and it's starting to froth, it's been in two days...do you think that it's ready, or should I wait a little while?

scoobs (trainee mad scientist)

[Felix Dzerzhinsky]

Hi Scoobs,

As soon as you see foam forming on the top it's time to apply. If you have Trichoderma powder throw a little in about 30 minutes before spraying and remember to spray under low pressure using a coarse setting on the nozzle. Or you can water on with a small watering can and a fine rose. Make sure plenty drips off onto the compost so the roots get infected as well.

Good luck

[scoobs]

Brill Felix... you're a gent

[smeagol]

hey Felix .. just had a thought .. i have a wormery and i mix my old plant compost into the worm casts that i have stored as i find the dry compo absorbs the moisture of the casts .. well obviously when doing this i incorporate the root system as well which led onto me thinking that if i have innoculated said roots they will be colonised and so when i use this mix for future grows will the new root system be innoculated ?? .. phew thats confused me a bit but i think it makes sense .. wot d'ya reckon? ..