DutchFox Posted September 6, 2023 Share Posted September 6, 2023 (edited) 3 hours ago, blerie420 said: Having done both I think dutchfox and arbre are on the money. Leave them be, your light is infinitely better than any grow light, and like said, you can stagger the harvest. All I would say on that is have something to seal up any harvest wounds you create... learned that the hard way few years ago, took the beefy colas, week or two later she had rotted from the cut outwards. Girls are looking banging btw you've done them real justice no not on the money.....just too much plants and too little time/place to dry and proces.... so i was forced to take the top buds fist ( same as a ripper does ) on a big plot some years ago......then came back 2 times more......and finally a 4th time when i thought i just came to clear the plot.......even the smallest buds down below were rockhard at final harvest..... the will and determnation a the plant is to get pollen ..so to make seeds to reproduce.... yes if you cut the main stem...which is hollow.....rain can get in.... and start stem rot.... bud rot usually comes from deep within the buds...thats why i prefer manny times to cut loose the buds.... Edited September 6, 2023 by DutchFox 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Barry Posted September 6, 2023 Share Posted September 6, 2023 Somewhat more substantial seems like an understatement. You have yourself a veritable forest of ganja there! leaves are more important to thin than removing lower buds imho for better airflow and mould prevention. The bigger the buds the more susceptible to mould they’ll be. I never thinned the bud sites because it provides a nice backup incase the main flowers get devastated by the old Botryrits Cinera but then again there are those who take the risk with stripping the lower portions of the branches entirely 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crow River Posted September 6, 2023 Share Posted September 6, 2023 Absolute trees! Loving your grow this year mate. Keep the good work. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hole in the clouds Posted September 6, 2023 Share Posted September 6, 2023 6 hours ago, DutchFox said: yes if you cut the main stem...which is hollow.....rain can get in.... and start stem rot.... This is what happened to me with an auto this year I literally cut it in half didn’t think anything of it. Water filled up inside and the whole plant rotted! It’s my 1st proper year and I'm learning but that should have been bloody obvious! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latitude54 Posted September 6, 2023 Author Share Posted September 6, 2023 @Hole in the clouds I’ve got a Gorilla Glue auto in the same “open stem” state right now. It’s been in a poly tunnel till 3-4 days ago so hasn’t been exposed to any rain. But now you’ve mentioned it, I’ll make sure I block the holes. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erbman T Posted September 7, 2023 Share Posted September 7, 2023 @latitude54 hey man. I found candle wax was quite handy for plugging those kind of holes last year. I’d literally have a candle in my kit bag when going out on plot visits, plus a lighter, either drip the wax on to smaller holes or melt it a bit then pull a glob of wax off to plug larger holes. Personally if it isn’t a fresh cut I’d give the area your about to plug a little ‘sterilisation’ with the lighter first to. Defo worth plugging holes though. Insects and all kinds of stuff can get in not just the rain 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erbman T Posted September 7, 2023 Share Posted September 7, 2023 (edited) Jus an after thought. Maybe in a poly tunnel could get warm and a wax plug could melt. Blue tack or anything like that could serve a similar purpose for a tight seal I guess … of course a bit of elecy tape never goes amiss in this game plants look Boom by the way Good luck for harvest Edited September 7, 2023 by Erbman T 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidgeSmith Posted September 7, 2023 Share Posted September 7, 2023 I am interested to know if silicone would be inert enough as it is good once set, I doubt it would leech into the plant, but don't know. I'd have opted for a blob of CT1 in the hole 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latitude54 Posted September 7, 2023 Author Share Posted September 7, 2023 @MidgeSmith tbh you can buy silica feed so I can’t see it doing any harm if used to plug holes. However I’d be concerned about what other chemicals might be in a tube of bathroom sealant. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldFord Posted September 7, 2023 Share Posted September 7, 2023 Sterling work mucker Some big girls As the lowers and inner sites will form slower , just take whats ready when you can So the mains removed will afford the lowers & inners more light penetration , aid the air flow , if your reall worried get some stakes in and bend them outwards a tad to opent the structure but as your going to take them instages i would just crack on as is. Im also not a fan of disturbing them once flowering has started, So leaving the very lowers on as they will develop as you start gradually taking them down Keep the updates & pics coming mate 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidgeSmith Posted September 7, 2023 Share Posted September 7, 2023 1 hour ago, latitude54 said: @MidgeSmith tbh you can buy silica feed so I can’t see it doing any harm if used to plug holes. However I’d be concerned about what other chemicals might be in a tube of bathroom sealant. Yes, me too. CT1 is pretty inert once it has gone off, but who knows what these things put out as they cure!?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaker Posted September 7, 2023 Share Posted September 7, 2023 I use a good quality masking tape for these holes after pruning the uppers or when i super crop, to support the elbow while healing . It just stays tight, sealed and waterproof, and seems to take really well to the coarse texture of the stem. No problems with infections so far, fingers crossed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latitude54 Posted September 8, 2023 Author Share Posted September 8, 2023 Does anyone know if sativa leaning strains develop trichs differently? The Lemon Cake is probably 4 weeks away from being even close to harvest but all of the trichomes are milky white? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Shadow Posted September 8, 2023 Share Posted September 8, 2023 Yes mate, it usually takes 12/12 or less light to instigate flowering and then IME it takes months to get the bloody thing to reach a point where you just say “fuck it that’s enough” Shortest flowering sativa I’ve grown was Molokai Frost and that was done by 55 days, the longest was a Thai and that fucker grew along one wall, then another and then back towards the front of the garage I was growing in, 18 months old and I’d had enough, plant was 25’ long, floppy AF and I got 1&1/2 pounds of airy buds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stayup4ever Posted September 8, 2023 Share Posted September 8, 2023 3 hours ago, latitude54 said: Does anyone know if sativa leaning strains develop trichs differently? The Lemon Cake is probably 4 weeks away from being even close to harvest but all of the trichomes are milky white? Trichs On the buds or leaves mate? First year for me growing the fast lemon cake,couple different phenos ,looking forward to seeing these finish ,chopped a couple about a month ago which auto'd..I'm thinking about end of the month/early October for chop for the others ,frosting up nicely but lots of yellowing leaves on a couple ,couldn't seem to correct them 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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