Shaman Greenhouse Grow

[Michellis]

On 11/08/2021 at 10:54 PM, SubSpecies said:

I know how you feel, but as stu914 says also.. no need to be really.. there are tuff fibres (hemp) in the stalks, they can handle slow bending, just not quick swift bending, it can be good to wiggle the main stalk back and forth with your finger and thumb on the main stalk at the point where you want the bend to be, this will loosen up the fibres and encourage the bend point at your finger and thumb.

 

There is another way if you would like to consider, it is called LST (low stress training), it is very similar to the above bending technique but creates an actual kink in the main stalk, this is what i do with my plants.

 

Heres how:

You can see i have striked a red line through the main stalk at the point where you could make the bend, just be sure it is not too close to the above or below node (leaf set/branch on main stalk).

You could even go another node or two down if you prefered to make it a little shorter, that might not be such a bad idea.

 

To bend:

1. Place your two 'peace' fingers sideways on the front of main stem at the point where the bend is gonna happen,

2. Place your thumb on the other side of the stalk and part your two fingers enough as if your thumb would fit through.

3. Keep your thumb firm and gently press in a pulsing motion your two fingers slightly bending the stalk on your thumb, but gently... keep doing 'pulsing' squeezes and you should start to feel the stalk loosen up...  if that stalk is loose you can now tie and hold it down easier and safer with a brick, or you can carry on further to LST.

4. LST: Keep going gently and press with your thumb to sort of 'cave in' the main stalk and using more force with the fingers (but still be gentle), it may crackle a little as some fibres possibly tear a little, you can feel it, don't worry its ok, it creates 'scar' tissue making a powerfull knuckle on the bend, some say it can pump more power to the plant, i do this early on in the plants life for a trained bush.

5. Now the top should sort of be hanging, slumped over like, you should support it using a long cane and tieing the branch horizontally to the cane, a tall cane securing from the floor to the roof would be ideal for stregth and support.
 

Naturally the top will try to grow back up again, but it would have slowed its stretch down alot as the energy is now level with other tops, and it will poke its head up in the back row

The third option:

Dramatic action, not recommended unless all else fails... dare i say it..... r-r-r-removing the top coz if you don't bend then the top will press up against the roof and rot sadly i would imagine.

 

I hope your decision is blessed and i know you will be ok, only do what you feel is right, so crack on... give it a good shot

 

All the blessed

 

 

 

Thanks very much for such a highly detailed set of instructions. I am rather fearful of snapping the stem, but following those guidelines, I will probably give it a go.....

[PermanentWaves]

Hi, @Michellis - you could do what I did a couple of years ago and get some of the plastic greenhouse clips that you use to attach bubble wrap on your greenhouse window frames. I just threaded some string through them and wrapped them round the top of the cola to pull it down from the ceiling. I also attached them on the side windows to gently pull the side branches away from the roof as well. This method also keeps your bud away from the glass so helps prevent contact from window condensation and then mould.

 

I’ve got a couple of Green Poison FVs in the garden that are about 10ft high now and there’s no way I’ll get them in the greenhouse, even using this method!

[Michellis]

On 13/08/2021 at 10:18 AM, PermanentWaves said:

Hi, @Michellis - you could do what I did a couple of years ago and get some of the plastic greenhouse clips that you use to attach bubble wrap on your greenhouse window frames. I just threaded some string through them and wrapped them round the top of the cola to pull it down from the ceiling. I also attached them on the side windows to gently pull the side branches away from the roof as well. This method also keeps your bud away from the glass so helps prevent contact from window condensation and then mould.

 

I’ve got a couple of Green Poison FVs in the garden that are about 10ft high now and there’s no way I’ll get them in the greenhouse, even using this method!

Thanks for the tip. I'm getting ever closer to the roof so am going to have to take some action soon.... !! Or put the plant outside maybe, or even indoors under LEDS maybe.....

[Michellis]

Well, I've bought myself some time. Dug a hole and lowered the pot!! So I have now got at least 15" more space between the top of the plant and the glass roof. 

[AutoAberdeen]

The ground at the back of my greenhouse is too hard to dig, would have done the same if it had been possible. 

[MindSoup]

3 hours ago, Michellis said:

Well, I've bought myself some time. Dug a hole and lowered the pot!! So I have now got at least 15" more space between the top of the plant and the glass roof. 

 

Brilliant idea, in the future I'd start training sooner to keep the height in check. Its nerve racking but they're very flexible if you take it slow. I've snapped plants main stems in the past and they haven't even slowed down, just make a splint and tape round the wound and they'll soon recover. 

 

One thing I always warn people about in greenhouses or poly tunnels is humidity, it will get crazy high in there, especially with a big girl like that and all the other plants. I'd consider thinning her out at the bottom remove any spindly branches as they won't amount to anything. Also remove all the leaves up to about 1/4 of the way up the plant, doing this will help air flow through the plant to stop mould (lollipoping). I would also get a hygrometer with a min max memory so you can monitor humidity, if it gets high (above 70%) you'd really benefit from some ventilation or other means of humidity control. I've not grown Shaman but I wouldn't expect it to be particularly mould resistant.

Edited August 17, 2021 by MindSoup

[Michellis]

2 hours ago, MindSoup said:

 

Brilliant idea, in the future I'd start training sooner to keep the height in check. Its nerve racking but they're very flexible if you take it slow. I've snapped plants main stems in the past and they haven't even slowed down, just make a splint and tape round the wound and they'll soon recover. 

 

One thing I always warn people about in greenhouses or poly tunnels is humidity, it will get crazy high in there, especially with a big girl like that and all the other plants. I'd consider thinning her out at the bottom remove any spindly branches as they won't amount to anything. Also remove all the leaves up to about 1/4 of the way up the plant, doing this will help air flow through the plant to stop mould (lollipoping). I would also get a hygrometer with a min max memory so you can monitor humidity, if it gets high (above 70%) you'd really benefit from some ventilation or other means of humidity control. I've not grown Shaman but I wouldn't expect it to be particularly mould resistant.

That's great advice. I was looking at those lower leaves thinking they should perhaps come off. I have seen an article on lollipopping so will read that. I will keep a careful check on the humidity, I think I have a meter so will keep an eye on the levels. Shaman is indeed considered to be 'mould resistant' .

Terrific forum this!! Ta again.!

[MindSoup]

Just now, Michellis said:

Shaman is indeed considered to be 'mould resistant' .

 

That's good news, although if that info is from the breeders description I'd take it with a pinch of salt. Good luck with it mate, if all goes well you should get a decent crop out of her. 

[Michellis]

 

Hello again. An update. Flowering seems to be going pretty well! However, I'm concerned about the yellowing of quite a few leaves. I wonder should I perhaps be increasing feeding?? I have been using BioBloom, quite sparingly. OR, maybe I'm feeding too much. 

As ever any advice would be appreciated..... Thanks.

[green_machine]

Hey mate looking nice, but you are correct in thinking you are underfeeding, that plant is looking very hungry to me.

 

I haven't used the biobizz nutes in many years (around 15 years I think) but you should be using both bloom and grow during flower. The bloom alone does not contain enough nitrogen for a plant and the yellowing you are seeing is looking like nitrogen def to me.

 

atb

greenie

 

 

[Michellis]

8 hours ago, green_machine said:

Hey mate looking nice, but you are correct in thinking you are underfeeding, that plant is looking very hungry to me.

 

I haven't used the biobizz nutes in many years (around 15 years I think) but you should be using both bloom and grow during flower. The bloom alone does not contain enough nitrogen for a plant and the yellowing you are seeing is looking like nitrogen def to me.

 

atb

greenie

 

 

Many Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated. I'll use a little more nutrients as suggested ....

[OldFord]

@Michellis   how are the ladies doing ?   Did they bounce back from the N difficulties ?     All the best   

[Michellis]

On 12/09/2021 at 4:21 PM, OldFord said:

@Michellis   how are the ladies doing ?   Did they bounce back from the N difficulties ?     All the best   

Thanks for your concern!

NO, not too good. As someone predicted I have been hit with a mould/mildew problem. The main stem has it the worst but there is some mould (I think) in one or two of the flowers. I have taken the plant out of the greenhouse now and in the fresh air. The weather is currently not too bad but it won't last forever (Oxford, UK). I am in a dilemma. Should I keep the plant outdoors or indoors? I don't think keeping it in the greenhouse is now an option as humidity in there is very high and very chilly at night.  Also is there anything I can do to treat the mould? Some of the branches and colas seem unaffected and I can see trichomes in the healthy-looking buds. 

I wonder should I cut my losses and harvest those decent(ish) buds or leave it....?

Any help would be appreciated...

In the photos below the middle picture is one of the healthy branches.

 

[SubSpecies]

C'mon Shamen you can do it!! Poor girl, damn rot always puts a dark cloud on tingz, but yes i would leave her outside in the sun to breath better for sure, cut any moldy bud off carefully and very gently, you could even get a bag and put that over the rotted bud if its a top bud and chop in the bag to help reduce any more spread. If its an arkward bud (not a top bud) be even more careful, maybe wave a flame over the moldy bud to burn loose spores before chopping it.

 

With the stem rot, i have just cleaned away some on my stem by using my hand sanitizer and kitchen roll, soak the kitchen roll with the sanattizer and start from bottom of stem rot and carefully work your way up so the juice runs into the tissue, take plenty of sheets and repeat untill clean, you may see stem damage naturally but the alchohol will certainly help big time. you could just run over that stem rot with a lighter or jet flame first to kill any loose spores and burn off some of that mold before you clean, thats what i normally do, but don't breath that smoke and try not to let that smoke run through any buds, tilt the plant and burn off the stem rot if necessary so the smoke goes away from any flowers.

Try to keep her dry as you can, you have a green house, strongly recommend a dehumidifyer or a powerful fan and put her in there when it rains and bring her out right away when it stops, but your best bet in all honesty is probably to just leave her outside all the time if you can, its bit of a contradiction putting her in the greenhouse when it rains as the humidity is 90%+ in there, and if it rains for too long like a day or two non-stop its game over, hence you should only put her in the greenhouse if you have a dehumidifier or powerful fan, leave the door open and face the fan towards the door, fan at back of greenhouse about middle hight should be good, the idea is to try to push out that moisture near the top of the greenhouse, seems to be where moisture accumulates the most.

 

Keep a very close eye opn her for more rot to come, but fingers crossed it stays at bay.

 

Best of luck to you as you head towards the finish line, nows the time to give it all you got

One Love @Michellis, i really hope this works out for you!

Edited September 16, 2021 by SubSpecies

[SubSpecies]

Also looking at your pics, you may well loose alot of support on those branches after you have cleaned up, stem rot can make the joins very weak and brittle once treated, so maybe just tie those two branches with some string to the main stem to help support them, as she is going outside now she will need strength from the wind, watch out the winds don't blow her over too