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No thc again!!!!


JAPE

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@AutoMaster ok so I flushed my plants, tested the run off and it was 5.9 so I bubbled some tap water over night and then warmed it to 22 degrees and ph'd it to 6.0, gave each plant about 10 litres each and now just waiting for them to dry out a bit, probably feed them Friday with some light nutes just a&b ec set at 0.9. Is this correct??? Also I've changed my light cycle to 24 hours a day so I don't have to worry about my root temps getting low. 

Edited by JAPE
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I grew one auto mazar in low temps and under CFLs. It took forever, like over 130 days from seed. Wasn't frosty but did have milky trichs. It cured down to a nice smoke anyway.

 

 

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On 12/03/2017 at 10:48 PM, JAPE said:

 

@AutoMaster wow bud cheers for your help i'lI follow your instructions to the dot. Thanks for taking your time to explain things been such a good help, much appreciated jape

 

I am glad to help Japes........ keep em on warmed ashbeck at 21c, every 2-3 days to run off Japes, till we get the kit you need to get back on the chem track with these Dames. keep the empty ashbeck 5ltr bottles for your standing tap water. As the tap water has to come upto room temp from the groundwater ex tap temp of 8-9c right now.

 

let it stand for 7 days if pos, in the warmest place in house, 1st floor etc ?. To let the tap water temp 8c, come up to ambient from 8c tap temp !! to room temp 18c ? it will also, while standing in 5ltr ashbeck bottles, begin to soak up by diffusion the oxygen and co2 into it, as well as coming up to room temp, this take about a week bro, as diffusion is a slow process.

 

Then you have the tap water ready for your 20hr aeration, after "AirConditioning" by standing the water. Before you warm it to 21c with kettle, then we will go into the nute pack prep, with Ph & Ec pen, when you get them in, we will fresh make each feed (Every 2-3days, to run off), and then we can watch the effects on the dames as we go through ten days post new prescription> Automaster

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On 15/03/2017 at 0:49 PM, JAPE said:

@AutoMaster ok so I flushed my plants, tested the run off and it was 5.9 so I bubbled some tap water over night and then warmed it to 22 degrees and ph'd it to 6.0, gave each plant about 10 litres each and now just waiting for them to dry out a bit, probably feed them Friday with some light nutes just a&b ec set at 0.9. Is this correct??? Also I've changed my light cycle to 24 hours a day so I don't have to worry about my root temps getting low. 

 

Soz japes didant see this !!............. you got kit already......... nice.

 

Firstly; give us the answers to below;

 

Qs have you "Calibrated" Ph pen japes ? with 7.0 calibration fluid ? as your 5.9 might be 6.1 or 6.2 if not calibrated or checked meter etc ?

Qs did you use nitric acid ph down ?

Qs what is the Ph and Ec of your tap water, after it has been standing at air for 48hrs at room temp ?

 

jape, 5.9 is low, as i predicted previously. So we can use the salty alkaline tap water to reinstate the buffering in your "Acidic" soil ok. To raise the ph in your soil, we can put in, a week nutrient Ec of 0.5 (See Below) at a ph of 7, this will help raise the medium ph back into the best uptake range 6.5 to 6.7 (As chart). A balance of Anions & Cations. Anions are acidic and dominate your soil at the moment.

 

Putting a lower (Maintenance nute) in the feed, while short period flushing, will help keep up the alkaline salt in the tap water we need to restore medium ph ok. As nutes are acidic and drop the tap water ph down. As mentioned, when we are back on full nute power 0.9, we will need to lift ph up with silicone ph up. to hit our 6.5 to 6.6 at start of flower.

 

nutrient Ec of 0.5 (See Below)

When we talk nute strength Ec, we mean "Nute Only". As tap water has an Ec due to calcium carbonate and chlorine in taop water. Chlorine is a benefit to plants, whats left of it post aeration japes......

 

So to make an accurate reservoir. measure the pre prepared aerated warmed tap water Ec. That has been standing for couple days. take the Ec of res. So tap water Ec is 0.2 ? 0.3 ? 0.35 ?

 

lets say it's 0.35Ec.  So if we want a nute only Ec of 0.9. We have to add the tap salt Ec to it thus;

 

tap Ec 0.35

Nute Ec added 0.9

So total res Ec is "1.25" Ec  ie total salt content in res inc tap water Ec ok.

 

The 0.9 Ec is broken down to this;  IN A FLOWERING NUTE SCENARIO

 

Blank canvass is thus Ec 0.35 Pre prepared Tap water.

 

Break the nute pack down; 0.9 divided by these nutes

 

Micro Nutrients 0.25

Bloom Nutrients 0.25

Pk13/14 boost 0.4

= total nute 0.9 + tap Ec = Ec 1.25 total res salt

 

To make it, add Micro nutrient 0.25 to tap Ec 0.35 = 0.6

Then to 0.6 add Bloom 0.25 = 0.85

Then add Pk 0.4 to 0.85 = 1.25Ec total ;).........

And so you build res pack Ec, and have control of nutes fed, over tap salts.

 

Once built, take Ph, will be below tap Ph as you added acidic nutes. Lift Ph back up with silicone Ph up, to 6.5-6.6, final Ph at end of flower is 6.8...... so slowly move Ph up as you get to end of flower, so the last 2 to 3 weeks of flower are on Ph 6.8 for best Pk uptake etc........

 

The trick is to know how much your nute drops the tap water Ph ? drops it to Ph 3.5 ?, then you can add (Phos or Nitric acid) Ph down. "Before" you add nutes, to res. So when res is made up with nutes @0.9, it's at the right Ph to use. Remember temperature affects Ph. So warm the res water to 21c, after aeration. before anything else is added......

 

Never stand a nute res pack un used for more than 24hrs before use, as Ph will shift off, causing more Ph down phos or nitric to be used. In the case of phos p04 Ph down. if used excessively to correct long standing reservoirs Ph shifts, Ph gone down. it will cause foxtailing in some flowers, due to excessive use of phos ph down in flower. never use "Nitric Acid Ph down during flowering. As N Nitric Nitrogen, at high levels in flower, can cause  stress or even a herm event. AM

 

Automaster;

 

Ps; 10 liters in 15ltr pots ? they must have been well dry jape. Or under watered ? in future, allways water untill you see the firsts drop of run off appear in tray, then stop. or go round em 1ltr each then it has time to go in before you hit the second liter and so on till run off first appears ok ;) then............AM leave em for 1 to 2 nights, to get on the build. And pull oxygen into medium (Important) before you hit em again with nutes ok AM

 

Addendum;

Japes changing to 24/0 from 18/6 might freak the auto out a bit......... good to start 24/0, but then drop it before flowering, to 18/6........... better to leave on the "Trigger" pattern 18/6 and get a 1kw thermo fan, that will switch off when it hits room maintenance temp of 22c temp, lights out. This will maintain your soil temp ok. AM

 

Edited by AutoMaster
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20 hours ago, JAPE said:

@AutoMaster give results 2moro again thanks for help

With any luck japes mate; you will be able to render the best from above; and get the hang of thing. You should see a difference i would hope japes man. Any time you run aground, give a hit back, and ill take a look ok.......... the Mazar is pure Indica thunderbolt, Afghan region "Mazzar"......... arid, hot place, accordingly a Hardy gene set in this Dame.......... but potent, crispy aromatics. 

 

Setmour-Buds, posted a world record single yield with this potent Indica strain, she aint scared of nute, so to see tip burn, did tell me, adjustment was needed, on yours japes, ie she can take a 1.3Ec nute only and scoff it, if all other conditions are present. The grow, Seymour-Buds did, was under LED's......... over three quarters of a kilogram came, post cure !! if i remember rightly..... 

 

it only happens a few times in a growers life expectancy......... the "Super Bean"........ that gene combi, from generation of exchange. Throws out the super pheno, a culmination of inheritance peaking. A super monster that dose not have the genetic  "Stop Codeation" !

 

I have never had one in 6yrs till now.......... i am just about to post it up in DP section. "The Pure Haze Monolith" is at 97 days from 1st wetting the "Bean"....... and at 62 days of 12/12........... she started out, normal....... but was delayed in flowering a bit, 10 days ??.......... my other 3 are all done and bagged, in cure freddy's best.

 

But this is the "Flip Side" geno, of Amnesia Outlaw Fem. The Haze inheritance, geno and pheno type expression, the F8+ "Hybrid" has thrown out a pure pheno, on the maternal side. So instead of chopping the Monster Pure Haze Dame, when the nuts where hazel size, and the rest just down, and bagged ??.

 

I thought, lets see what she's got then, and delay the new germ and selection window. Glad i did, she is a hungry mother too........ i hit this pure sativa with a high Ec nute onlt @1.08........... no tip burn 5-6 day later !!............ she got the hungry gene to ! though keep hitting her after mid term RO balance flush in between feeds, keep the salt down........... off she went.......... 1m wide 1.3m tall Monster.

 

For one single Dutch Dame, this will be my largest post cure outcome, since i started with those 3 first run, first DP "BlueBerry's" beans 6 years back......... she shows no sign yet, of slowing down, a slight color change in the lower fans, tells me she is on the nute reclaim trail to final load up......... this is going to be mental ! you herd it here first on Jape'sey's blog !   Im off to post up the Monster ;)

 

Automaster

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On 3/11/2017 at 0:23 PM, botanics said:

 

Like I said above, I've had tasty, really tasty, excellent quality smoke but the highs are not like old in my opinion :yep:

That depends on how old.

The sugar leaves and popcorn buds I save as shake from a grow to make edibles these days is still stronger than any of the pot I ever bought back in the 60s, which was always also full of seeds.

And that's not the buds I save for smoking.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 31/03/2017 at 3:03 PM, JAPE said:

lol I worry too much!!!

the ultimate looks nice japes mate............. what about the "Mazar" bro ??................. glad she came out nice.....  AM

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