Total Lumens per Light

[Deranged World]

I have 2x1000w mh sunmaster and the plants seem to like them.

[Xj4000]

Has anyone tried using LEDs ? I'm not talking household units, what I am talking about are the 12v light bars designed for use on 4x4's.

You may notice a lot of light in the avi, that's all LED. I put a fair bit of time into researching LEDs for the truck, the upshot was, ridiculous amounts of light from a very low power draw per watt and low heat output. I have a 7" Cree unit that hasn't been fitted yet so I'm gonna stick a plant under it and see how things go.

Here's the numbers. Cree 7" (flood beam) 36w, 6500K with 3600Lm and 50,000hr continous use lifespan. The other upside is you can pick these up for sub £30.

[february]

Its a proven fact....

The more Light your plants will recieve, the bigger, stronger they will become. The only draw back to these higher wattage unit is Heat build up! Most plants will grom most effective between temps ranging between 20-28 deg Celceus and it is also best to try and avoid large temperature fluctuations between night and day as this can lead to weak and poorley formed plants.

It is ideal for most species to try and bring these two temps as close together as possible which is easier to accomplish than you think Most effective way is a propane heater (usually sold as Greenhouse heaters)

Anyway......Back to the topic at hand. Here is a lowdown of how many lumens each light unit gives off, along with its cost of running.

Lamp: 400W Halide

Lumens: 38,000

Efficiency: 95 lumens per watt

Cost per 12 hours@ 8p a unit: 38p

Lamp: 400W Sodium

Lumens: 53,000

Efficiency: 135 lumens per watt

Cost per 12 hours@ 8p a unit: 38p

Lamp: 600W Sodium

Lumens: 92,000

Efficiency: 153 lumens per watt

Cost per 12 hours@ 8p a unit: 58p

Lamp: 1,000W Halide

Lumens: 115,000

Efficiency: 115 lumens per watt

Cost per 12 hours@ 8p a unit: 96p

Lamp: 1,000W Sodium

Lumens: 140,000

Efficiency: 140 lumens per watt

Cost per 12 hours@ 8p a unit: 96p

Happy Gardening!!!

MadagascarX

Thats some useful information but lumens is not the only measurement to consider when looking at lighting. PAR (Photosynthetic active radiation) is the light spectrum range between 360nm and 760nm that plants are able to absorb and use for integral stages of photosynthesis. PAR is the ability of light to drive photosynthesis so i think just as if not more iportant than lumens.

Edited February 20, 2015 by Owderb

[c20spit]

8 pence per unit seems very cheap

[~nobody~]

well it was from 2003.

[Redeyezman]

This should be unpinned. Why is lumens a topic, when PAR matters?

[marcjuna]

On 06/02/2003 at 0:51 PM, MadagascarX said:

Its a proven fact....
The more Light your plants will recieve, the bigger, stronger they will become. The only draw back to these higher wattage unit is Heat build up! Most plants will grom most effective between temps ranging between 20-28 deg Celceus and it is also best to try and avoid large temperature fluctuations between night and day as this can lead to weak and poorley formed plants.
It is ideal for most species to try and bring these two temps as close together as possible which is easier to accomplish than you think Most effective way is a propane heater (usually sold as Greenhouse heaters)

Anyway......Back to the topic at hand. Here is a lowdown of how many lumens each light unit gives off, along with its cost of running.

Lamp: 400W Halide
Lumens: 38,000
Efficiency: 95 lumens per watt
Cost per 12 hours@ 8p a unit: 38p

Lamp: 400W Sodium
Lumens: 53,000
Efficiency: 135 lumens per watt
Cost per 12 hours@ 8p a unit: 38p

Lamp: 600W Sodium
Lumens: 92,000
Efficiency: 153 lumens per watt
Cost per 12 hours@ 8p a unit: 58p

Lamp: 1,000W Halide
Lumens: 115,000
Efficiency: 115 lumens per watt
Cost per 12 hours@ 8p a unit: 96p

Lamp: 1,000W Sodium
Lumens: 140,000
Efficiency: 140 lumens per watt
Cost per 12 hours@ 8p a unit: 96p

Happy Gardening!!!

MadagascarX

£70 to flower for ten weeks under a 1000watts.

[Thedoctor6999]

On 26/04/2014 at 11:46 AM, Xj4000 said:

Has anyone tried using LEDs ? I'm not talking household units, what I am talking about are the 12v light bars designed for use on 4x4's.

You may notice a lot of light in the avi, that's all LED. I put a fair bit of time into researching LEDs for the truck, the upshot was, ridiculous amounts of light from a very low power draw per watt and low heat output. I have a 7" Cree unit that hasn't been fitted yet so I'm gonna stick a plant under it and see how things go.

Here's the numbers. Cree 7" (flood beam) 36w, 6500K with 3600Lm and 50,000hr continous use lifespan. The other upside is you can pick these up for sub £30.

At approx 100 lumen per watt but more importantly a good spectral output they should be fine on a watt by watt basis. But that means you'd need around 9 to achieve the same ppfd as a 315w cdm. And not a great intensity. Hlg quantum boards especially the v2 will significantly outperform them. And if you diy them available for a very similar price. 

[Grow lady]

On 06/02/2003 at 5:08 PM, Jessiedog said:

Reposted from two other threads: No responses yet.

Can anyone help?

I am buying Japanese made, cool white (called "daylight") 24w (120w equivalent) compact fluro's - 3 for HK$90.00 (about seven pounds fifty).

They are rated 6400K and and are bright as buttons.

I also have the option of getting either "warm white" at 4200K, or "warm" at 2700K. Neither of these seem to chuck out anything like the same amount of brightness, but are, obviously, a more orangey colour.

There was a thread about the different "K's", but I couldn't find it. Can anyone remember where it is, explain what "K's" are, or direct me to a link learn more about the "K" thingy?

And can someone let me know (for flowering with fluro's) which would be better. The warm only - 2700K, the warm white only - 4200K, a mixture of those two, or a mix of all three types including the daylight at 6400K?

The ones I use at the moment, put out so little heat, I can get them very close to the plants (currently 6X24w daylights = 144w).

For flowering, could I simply add six of the warmer ones to the game and hence keep the daylights, but with a total of 288w of compact fluro light?

I could also arrange the lights at different levels, both above and among the plants to improve penetration since they are so cool.

Whatdaya all think?

Thanks.

Woof

@Jessiedogthe cheap leds are useless i have 4 leds that's not what they meant to be even marshydro 1600w led aren't great and I have gone bk to hps for now till can afford lumatek or maxibright led but they not cheap but most leds are bullurpulls and not what they say they are don't waste your money buy good or hps if cant afford good chinese ones mostly fake and not what advertised has they just lie to get them sold so many fakes out there be careful 

[NezA]

This is some A grade necro the post is from 2003 the user hasn't even logged in for 4 years 

[Shumroom]

Welcome to UK420 Jak420

 

Why don't you pop by the 'New Members' section and start a thread to introduce yourself to the community

 

Also it might be worthwhile familiarising yourself with the site rules

 

For instance posting links to commercial sites is not allowed. 

 

Hope to see you around

 

Atb 

 

 

 

 

[Jak420]

Thanks, got ya.  i actually thought it did not even post as i got an error message.

 

As a description: Lux can be converted when the spectra is known

[Shumroom]

There’s a really good and much more current thread on the subject of PPFD PAR and Lux:

http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?/topic/420079-cheap-accurate-par-readings/

 

Atb

 

 

 

[Military Grade]

Op's opening gambit didn't age well , I guess he can be forgiven considering how old this thread was made and now people know about DLI. 

could probably do with being unpinned