AJA Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 (edited) Symptom only started since last night, but found the very beginning of either tox. problem or def. problem. One of my troubles is not being able to tell the difference between toxicity and deficiency Its early stages, though it is on a few more leaves than i've shown here, but not everywhere on the plant right now. Feeding Mega C 1 part to EC 1.2 total - (base EC 0.6) , and pH 5.9. 13.6 Litre fabric pot on drainer 1 feed per day - 1 litre run off. Runoff pH 6 and EC 1.9 , so runoff EC has jumped. Havent fed them today yet as gonna wait till i know whats going on. Advice welcome Edited March 21 by AJA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Green Manalishi Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 What are your temps? Could you post a pic of the plant? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJA Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 Temps 79 F humid. 55% I'm also seeing some same on new growths . If you need a better pic, i'll sort one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GSZZ Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 (edited) 2 hours ago, AJA said: Feeding Mega C 1 part to EC 1.2 total - (base EC 0.6) , and pH 5.9. 13.6 Litre fabric pot on drainer 1 feed per day - 1 litre run off. Runoff pH 6 and EC 1.9 , so runoff EC has jumped. Havent fed them today yet as gonna wait till i know whats going on. we need more info like lights on/off RH and temps to diagnose properly. The jump in EC would suggest that there is some level of dry back going on - this would effect transpiration which will effect calcium uptake (top image) However, a single part feed at 1.2 EC in base 0.6 EC isn't alot of food either, you could be underdoing it. I did look it up online, its a complete feed, but in your hard water it may cause imbalances due to there being too much calcium and not enough magnesium to facilitate uptake of both Ca and K between the feed and your tap water - but until we get more information this is just speculation. e2a or it could be both issues, which would explain both the high run off EC (too much dry back/hot temps/low RH) and them also looking starving (not enough feed/unbalanced nutrient profile) Edited March 21 by GSZZ 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shumroom Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 With the runoff EC being so high, I’d suggest adding another fertigation event per day. But I see @GSZZ typing so I’d probably take his advice Do you have a temperature sensor in the pot? Atb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJA Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 (edited) Lights 24/0 Humidity 55% Temps 79F I agree EC 0.6 feed to base EC 0.6 is not a lot of feed, but i'm going by the info on MegaCrop bag of 1.2 for veg. pH is 7.5 from tap, and i ph down to 5.9 after mixing nutes I dont have a probe in the Coco. Its Pro 7 Jiffy buffered 70/30. Photo with lights off but dark room means flash enabled Edited March 21 by AJA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MySoulIsMine Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 How close do you have your lights ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJA Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 (edited) 42 inches from plant tips. LED is on 25% ... any lower and the temps rise LED is Omega Black 720 and extraction is AC Infinity Cloudline 6 2 x 5 inch Elzo tent fans Edited March 21 by AJA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GSZZ Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 (edited) 4 hours ago, AJA said: Lights 24/0 Humidity 55% Temps 79F Give them some dark ya lunatic. e2a - some might disagree with me, but its too cold - that 79f (26c) should be your lights off, 86F (30c) lights on. Edited March 21 by GSZZ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJA Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 They're autos, so i dont bother with a light regime. Would you still give autos dark time ? 86 / 30 is right at the limit for me, but i'll give it a shot. I only need to up the Omega to 50% , as that gives me around 86/30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GSZZ Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 (edited) 42 minutes ago, AJA said: They're autos, so i dont bother with a light regime. Would you still give autos dark time ? Based on a few factors, a cannabis plant can only photosynthesize so much light before it completely stops photosynthesizing and just sits there getting battered by light. Autos dont need a dark period to flower but they're still subject to the same mechanisms of photosynthesis that other cannabis plants are (AFAIK) so can only maximise photosynthesis to the minimum factor (usually co2) . Back in't day when people were using legacy lighting tech like low wattage HPS and CFL, the amount of light your plant could use that they were putting out was quite low compared to todays standards, which meant growers didn't have to give their autos a dark period because there was enough co2 in the air, and such little light. The same can be said for photoperiod plants in veg on 24/0, but I'll come back to this. Thats not the case with LEDs as they put out quite a lot of light, comparably. If you can't turn the light down anymore, and increasing co2 isn't an option, your only option is to give them some dark to lower the amount of light they get per day (DLI - Daily Light Integral) 42 minutes ago, AJA said: 86 / 30 is right at the limit for me, but i'll give it a shot. I only need to up the Omega to 50% , as that gives me around 86/30 Well bare in mind if you're going to increase light to increase the room temps, then you're probably going to have to give them even more dark. Heat the room up with a heater - theres only a 180w difference between 25% and 50% on that light of yours - get a similar wattage tube heater its job is just to get warm, so it'll do it better, more efficient, and ultimately cheaper than turning the light up would, what with heat just being a byproduct. I had a similar problem myself recently, when I replaced my old T5 propagation lights for LED strip lights. Despite being less than half the wattage of the T5s, they put out more than double the light - I pig headedly just straight replaced them, turned the thermostat up and thought I'd be ok but a week later I was scratching my head at loads of yellow plants. It was only at that point I put the light meter in there and realised what the issue was, and because the prop lights couldn't (or rather, didn't come with a dimmer) be dimmed the only option was to reduce the light hours from 24/0 to 20/4 - less than a week later everything was back to normal. Edited March 21 by GSZZ 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJA Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 Great info GS ... i shall make some amendments based on your advice. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJA Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 (edited) Since i already had a tube heater in the tent, but not switched on, i now have this on a digi timer , as is the Omega too. I'm giving the girls 4 hours of dark from tonight ...... lights off from 10 pm to 2am, heater on 9.55pm off 2.05 am Edited March 21 by AJA 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GSZZ Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 Awesome - the next few waterings, make sure you get a good plenty run off from them also. Come back in a week and show us how they look bud 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJA Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 Help appreciated GS Indeed m8, i always feed to runoff. Getting 1 feed/water per day as i speak. Back in a week 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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