Clubs Posted November 29, 2023 Author Share Posted November 29, 2023 Just now, murphyblue said: Just checked as couldn't remember the make is "Morris" got em from the big river site the 1fts are 60w and about £23. My little lung space inside the cab is about 400x400x600 and got 2 in there and they are doing a cracking job so far. Gonna get another one to put inside the flower cab. Nice one, found them. They look like just the ticket 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murphyblue Posted November 29, 2023 Share Posted November 29, 2023 Be aware there's no thermostat on em so i got both plugged into a double heat inkbird to control the temp. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amnesialocal Posted December 26, 2023 Share Posted December 26, 2023 (edited) As lot of people say...insulation. I added 50-100mm insulation board around the tent and 40mm in the lung room ($180 for all the boards). I have two tube heater 35w 300mm and 135w 900mm + 50x122cm 100w heat mat. Almost everything from other different projects. So I put everything but not yet turn everything on. With the 135w only apparently I can keep now 22-24 C quite easy and from T69 Controller the heater turn off every 30min or so. While drying several weeks ago that we reach 0 the 135w was keeping the dry tent at 18-19C with little consumption. Someone also clarified that tube heater put the heating up but are not keeping roots necessarily at the right temperature. A heat mat do it better I understood ( but more experienced can clarify). Not sure if suggesting a heat mat + 1 tube heater could make also sense. Edited December 26, 2023 by Amnesialocal 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidgeSmith Posted December 26, 2023 Share Posted December 26, 2023 (edited) I have 2 tube heaters and a heat mat. The mat rarely fires up because the whole tent is on 50mm polystyrene insulation and the tubes generally keep all of it warm enough. I have all the heaters running off probes and controllers though just in case. Between the light, tube heaters and mat though, it is all good. Edited December 26, 2023 by MidgeSmith 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chal Posted December 30, 2023 Share Posted December 30, 2023 (edited) On 24/11/2023 at 5:05 PM, murphyblue said: I just bought a couple of 1ft tubes for my cab its an old steel industrial type cupboard insulated on the inside ..... Oh and slippy is right insulation is the key to lowering costs bit hard to do insulate a tent though. Sorry to jump up, so randomly, mate! Re reading this thread from a new perspective and my head's spinning a bit ~ in a nice way. Just while I remember what's caught my eye, halfway: ** Do I take it ye 'flowering area' is then, what? The main inside of that cupboard? And ye little 'control box' there is actually like a little cupboard, down in the corner of the main cupboard? That it? ** **Sorry! Just seen ye explained this, later in the thread Anyway; What's up with insulating a tent? Got mine in the kitchen. Simply clad in 'Kingspan'. (Except the door side!) Only, what it is, see; I'm now thinking of building your little control box there, onto the side of my 'tent box'. I s'pose opening doors is just an occupational pita, isn't it? Unless, arse about facedly, we just heat the entire fucking room the box / tent stands in? Bummer! Edited December 30, 2023 by Chal New info added. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chal Posted December 30, 2023 Share Posted December 30, 2023 On 26/12/2023 at 5:27 PM, Amnesialocal said: With the 135w only apparently I can keep now 22-24 C quite easy I'm guessing that's with a bulb running? Not an led? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notunum Posted December 30, 2023 Share Posted December 30, 2023 No loading your 600 ballasts into a lung box these days. I have stuck heaters in with the 600s to, and set the stat to only switch off in an overheat situation. Which is only likely if the fan fails to draw air through the box. I think I would stick with the lung idea, such as tubes in the alloy duct that gas appliences use. Screwfix sell short lengths. It won't burn, even if you don't buy tubes with a stat. The lung is good, as without it, you have cold air coming in. It will warm, but it's still entering cold. I would rather warm it before it comes in. I would go a step further, with a pid controller. It's only a tenner. It's a thermostat, but ramps the power up n down, rather than on/off. This way you use only the electric you need. No more and no less. With no cold moments as typical stats switch on/off. Which wouldn't be acceptable, as a stat that's off, is cold air straight in. The same applies to heaters on the floor. If you just have one, it can't ever click off. You end up using more power than needed, by setting it too high. To ensure it stays on. Otherwise, that cold air entering, will hit the plants still cold. It's hard enough mixing hot and cold air as it is, without turning the heater off as it thinks it's warm enough. So the pid controller is very useful, if you can work one. Pre-heat is my choice, and an electric blanket isn't unusual under raised systems. Insulate the tent well (if you have one), as it will loose heat rapidly. Heat recovery is on my mind this year. I want an 8" inlet pipe, that my 4" foil exhaust runs through. The air flows go in opposite directions. It only needs to be a meter or two I think. Like a giant liebig. Such things are pretty efficient, so much heat is retained, not exhausted out. I have high hopes for the air to air heat recovery. It costs peanuts to make, or you can cough £200 or so, for a small domestic unit. If you chase this idea, I would be interested what efficiency these units have. It might push my diy dreams along into reality 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chal Posted December 30, 2023 Share Posted December 30, 2023 16 hours ago, Chal said: I'm guessing that's with a bulb running? Not an led? @Amnesialocal : Sorry, mate. That wasn't a rhetorical question. I'm pretty much waiting on ye reply, before hitting Amazon with all guns blazing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notunum Posted December 31, 2023 Share Posted December 31, 2023 (edited) On 11/29/2023 at 6:21 PM, murphyblue said: Just checked as couldn't remember the make is "Morris" got em from the big river site the 1fts are 60w and about £23. My little lung space inside the cab is about 400x400x600 and got 2 in there and they are doing a cracking job so far. Gonna get another one to put inside the flower cab. Redring and Dimplex also put their branding on these. About £15 for the 80w on eBay Edit: This stat is interesting. eBay 314831970166 I can't post links yet.. It has a timer, to set different day and night temps, which is a good energy saving measure. It also says it's dimming, rather than it switches right off straight away. £28 Edited December 31, 2023 by notunum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormanNugget Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 @Military Grade Have you ever had your tube heaters in the big tray with the plant not in its own saucer? I need two 60cm tubes in my tent and thinking about positioning, currently I have one mounted like this I was thinking to maybe mount another just on top and hope the fan will push the warm air around. Otherwise I’ll need to sit them in the tray, but I don’t have space for saucers and and am a bit worried about two electric heaters potentially sitting in a pool of run off.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Military Grade Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 (edited) @NormanNugget Personally I wouldn't risk it if the main tray is as risk of being flooded. I have mine in the floor tray as I hand water and the plant pots have their own trays inside the tent tray. Could you mount them on the left and right sides like you have it at the back? That way you wouldn't need to rely so much on a fan the spread the heat, tho still having a fan blowing around under the canopy does help. I have my USB floor fan blowing around, but I noticed one time when I had the fan blowing directly on the tube heater it caused it safety shut off and I had to turn it off and back on again at the wall. Edited February 16 by Military Grade edit, had put would but meant to be wouldn't 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormanNugget Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 @Military Grade I’ll also be hand watering, but no space for saucers. Currently my passive intake is on the right side as the tent is in a corner left and back sides near a wall. I guess I could use the back for intake instead, there’s about 75mm gap to the wall. The fan in shot will stay at pot level with another moving up with the canopy. I’ll have a look at switching it around today. If all else fails I might make some waterproof boots for the heaters and stand them in the tray! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Villan Posted April 29 Share Posted April 29 Is it possible to run two tube heaters and control them with an inkbird itc 308 wifi model. I used it last year in my outside shed with a greenhouse heater. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Military Grade Posted April 29 Share Posted April 29 If you mean can a controller handle it, yes If that's not what you mean then ignore me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Villan Posted April 29 Share Posted April 29 Just now, Military Grade said: If you mean can a controller handle it, yes If that's not what you mean then ignore me Cheers, I am just not sure because the two sockets are marked for heting and cooling, I dont want to cool anythhin, just plug two tube heaters into it. I can easily get rid of this particular inkbird and get one that will allow two tubes to be plugged in and controlled, not sure myself to be honest, it is late haha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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