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What am i doing wrong?


KingAether

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I just use a piece of white paper over the prop or the sandwich bag. I don't use rooting hormone and I try not to touch the bags for at least 2 weeks. Decent sized cuts help too rather than tiny little ones. I'm not saying use loads of nodes I just mean pick a cut with a bit of decent sized leaf. I've tried the cutting the tips off and not and I don't think it makes a difference if it's in a sealed unit. Mind out some props have holes in the bottom tray.....useless unless you wrap them or put them in a plastic bag.

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10 hours ago, KingAether said:

Does anyone have an advice on what i can use to keep the light intensity down for the cuttings if i put them in the veg tent for heat; im thinking a couple of sheets of paper taped inside the lid might do it ?

 

You could just put the sheet of paper over the top of the box, I've done that with a propergator before. But really I think you need to reveg the whole plant now.

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I cut the leaves down for 2 reasons. 1. Less chance of mould (soggy leaf in 90% rh for 2 weeks will almost guarantee it), and 2. I reckon trimming the leaves forces a small reduction in photosynthesis therefore increasing root building activity out of necessity.
 

 

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Just now, Slippy One said:

I cut the leaves down for 2 reasons. 1. Less chance of mould (soggy leaf in 90% rh for 2 weeks will almost guarantee it), and 2. I reckon trimming the leaves forces a small reduction in photosynthesis therefore increasing root building activity out of necessity.
 

 

Transpiration too, with no roots the plant has lmited water, so if your can reduce how much it is losing through transpiraration that's a good thing.

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5 hours ago, inceywinceyspider said:

 

You could just put the sheet of paper over the top of the box, I've done that with a propergator before. But really I think you need to reveg the whole plant now.

As far as im aware i can either let the little bud fall away or just cut it off myself when i take the cut but shouldn't have to reveg the whole plant

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They're much harder to root late into flower and sometimes wont do so but keep on with it, it sounds well worth keeping.

Edited by inceywinceyspider
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On 28/02/2022 at 9:38 PM, Shaggy1 said:

Just make sure you're cutting through the node,

can you show how/where you mean with a photograph?

 

 

mystic

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@mysticriverI don't have a picture to hand, but if you go on budelaires guide that's pinned in this section he has a picture guide that shows perfectly what i mean.

 

I pull both growth tips and leaf downwards so it sorta strips the outside layer of the stem with it, if you get what i mean, dunno why, i just feel like it opens up the stem more than just plucking it straight out, then diagonally cut through the open wound where to stalk was. 

 

If any of that makes senselol:skin_up:

Eta

As said above though, others cut below the node too and it works fine, its just in my limited experience they haven't rooted as well when I've done my own little tests

Edited by Shaggy1
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taken cuts after 3 weeks flower and in veg. in veg is much easier. used an aero cloner but prefer the other way. root riot cubes, 2 nodes with leaves, cut diagonally through third node and use rooting gel, straight in cubes. keep the lid on the prop, heat mat set to 27 degrees, probe in a spare cube. T5 light is best imo. Keep them moist but not wet, use a pippet so you're only adding 5ml or so after day 5, dont let them dry out, after 10 days you should have roots appearing, pot up to 1L airpots 

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It's a fine line..

Heat  at root zone and moisture at plant level or environment.

Never let your clones go to bed wet , if you have a timer on them.

Keep them at 78 to 80 degrees.

To much moisture in the chamber is an issue as well.

I use growDan cubes...... 4 inch.... which I cut up into small one inch sizes.I'm cheap lol .. :) (26 smaller cubes from one)

I soak the cubes and let them drain well before adding clones..You can add a "very small" amount of feed...

I cut clones...dip into root hormone and right into the cube I've made a hole "through" with a nail to fit the clone.

Cover chamber and wait. Size chamber should equate to how many clones you have...

You can open the chamber if you see to much moisture on the sides.

Some clones root in days...some take two weeks plus.

I have a post and pictures of what I do for cloning on my page.

Some really fine examples here already though  ....

 

usually comes down to, to much moister or heat or not enough.. :)

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Personally I’d just grab one of the root it kits for about £13 on ebay. It comes with a prop, 24 cubes, rooting gel and their first feed shit. It works dead easy.

 

im not sure on this “cut through a node” business. I understand the idea is to find solid stem as that is classed as a “rooting point” but it’s not needed as it’ll root at any point and I find nice clean straight stem to root best. 
 

simply cut nice fresh clones off. Dip the end in the gel, stuff it in a cube and then put it in the tray. When the tray is full pour a bit of the first feed bollocks on it and stick the lid on and don’t touch it for a week.

 

large.38D45E54-2321-42D0-9CDD-4CAF03DC73B3.jpeg
 

too much heat and water can be an issue, as said, I nearly cooked these clones the other day as they were on the top shelf of old George, the cloney. I sorted that out and they have happily come through.

 

12 more candy dawg clones. Totals 76 clones of that plant, I had to grow a couple of donor plants out which need to be binned now to get enough for me two mates.

 

wedding glue at the back is for the next round.

Edited by Whatwentwrong
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5 hours ago, Whatwentwrong said:

not sure on this “cut through a node” business. I understand the idea is to find solid stem as that is classed as a “rooting point” but it’s not needed as it’ll root at any point and I find nice clean straight stem to root best. 

Roots form from the node not the stem. You should imo cut at an angle just below the node following the bottom line of the petiole

Propagating%20cuttings.jpg

 

Without at least 1 node in the medium the plant will never root.

 

 

Some plants root from the stem like hydrangea but that's not of concern here. The focus is that roots a re built from nodes. 

The less plant material below the node to rot the better because that's what will happen to it. Say there's a node with an inch of clean stem below it with no node in the end. It will rot back up to the first node and not likely root from that node either ime

 

 

Also rooting gel/hormone/powder is an absolute waste of time and money. You will get the same or better results without it I guarantee it.

 

 

 

If you think too much water to be an issue with root it's its because of how your watering them.

You should have them in a bowl of your premix soaking. As you come to load it up with a cutting give the cube a gentle squeeze. This leaves the perfect amount of moisture left.

Even sodden cubes root fine as there should be enough oxygen in the spongy airy medium so my guess is there's been a major excess when you've poured your first feed in. Easily avoided in a repeatable reliable technique 

 

Also just an fyi, cutting leaf blades actually causes extra stress on the cutting as they are large point for moisture loss to occur when you want a plant to maintain maximum turgidity and minimise water losses.

 

 

3 leaves uncut for cannabis the science says and I'd agree.

The ONLY time I'd trim leaf tips is if the leaves were huge on really sturdy cuttings and the extra leaf area was going to cause too much photosynthesis.

 

 

Strong healthy cuttings root faster than small weak ones. The obviously strong one stood proud in his own at the back looks like a good un. 

 

Hope that helps

Edited by blackpoolbouncer
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I always cut through the node used to use clonex but lately just cut an into coco prewetted with a touch o intense nutes kickstart  into the tent wi everything else an she rooted fine :yep:

 

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