Return of the mites, immune to harkers

[ygdop]

I wouldn't spray anything with Abamectin in it, on cannabis. That's nasty stuff that can linger in plants after several generations of serial cloning.

 

So when in a pinch and I need to turbo charge my IPM foliar in veg I will add 99% iso alcohol to what I'm using unless its sulfur based (if your spraying sulfur your trying to kill a few active bugs, and your already on level 3). 1/3 alcohol -2/3 normal foliar spray mix is the max bet for me, and your basically making your own "green cleaner".

 After all relevant signs of activity are gone I go back to the regular mix and work in a blended micro herd foliar that works really well on bugs and the plants respond well to it too.

 

Properly mixed and used iso alcohol will kill most bugs that attack cannabis. I just got done putting down a double dose of the black heads and fat whiteys myself. I used my foliars no more than 3 days apart, and mixed them fresh each time, for a week and a half and they are gone. I used "mamoth canncontrol" probably not on your shelves but I mention it because of what's on the label thyme oil, oleaic acid and corn oil. (plus the iso)

[Slippy One]

Killermite is £50/250ml, Harkers pigeon drops £11/5ml would make Killermite better value by far. I thought mectins only stayed around for a few weeks? Multiple generations of clones? Shesh no thanks. I'll stick with a week of neeming pre flower and hope for the best.. 

 

 

[ratdog]

15 hours ago, ygdop said:

That's nasty stuff that can linger in plants after several generations of serial cloning.

 

 

do you have a source for this mate?, i can't find anything that suggests it's systemic in the actual plants

 

Quote

Abamectin is a natural fermentation product produced by a soil microorganism, Streptomycetes avermitilis, an actinomycete. Because the product is natural in origin, it may fit into some “organic” production programs

 

Edited March 21, 2021 by ratdog

[ygdop]

On 3/21/2021 at 4:24 AM, ratdog said:

 

 

do you have a source for this mate?, i can't find anything that suggests it's systemic in the actual plants

 

 

I think I must have confused Abamectin with Myclobutanil (my apologies for the confusion there), but I know they've had to repackage it, since Avid, in the States a few times now to keep it on the market for cannabis farmers and I know it's residuals are not safe for humans. One of the biggest tests for me with these types of things are if it's not good for aquatic life there are a lot of other correlating factors that will normally indicate its not a good idea for cannabis either.  I have to check and recheck approved use lists constantly, and the list in the state I operate in mostly changes like a stock market ticker, so much, I have kinda gotten to the point that I commit the names to memory and don't buy them, and in that process I gave up getting into the details of everything they go off on, some of it seems political as there are perfectly good products that aren't approved for one reason or another, proprietary blend disclosure is the speed bump for most of these situations, but then there are the heavy hitters from commercial agriculture. I posted the other ones up here to because they are the "go to's" for a lot of people when they have given up on a bug problem, and I get it, as they can be some persistent fuggers, but at the end of the day, you pull up your socks, and spray right with the proper frequency. Then, it's like you know all the cheat codes for super mario bros back in 89.

 

• Abamectin: In Avid pesticide, the miticide abamectin is the main component. Avid is often used in cannabis grow rooms to kill spider mites and other insects. Miticide is a chemical agent used specifically for the purpose of eradicating mites. Abamectin has proved toxic to marine life and, according to the pesticide action network, abamectin is considered a “bad actor” chemical.(it basically means its residual components don't play well with organic organic stuff for one reason or another)
• Myclobutanil: The primary component of Eagle 20, myclobutanil is a fungicide commonly used in marijuana grow rooms to kill powdery mildew and bud rot. This chemical has been banned in cannabis cultivation in Canada and in Colorado, Washington and Oregon because of health concerns. Plus, myclobutanil has proven to be bad news for aquatic life and organisms, too (Unless you like cyanide... This stuff is the worst!!! Don't ever use it on cannabis or even near it)
• Bifenazate: The dominant component of Floramite is another miticide used against spider mites. Last year several legal Canadian cannabis companies announced a recall due to the presence of myclobutanil and bifenazate in their respective products. It was found that if inhaled, these chemicals could damage the lungs.(gray lesions on lung tissue and 90 days for the residuals that cause them to breakdown)
• Spiromesifen: The main component in the insecticides Oberon and Forbid, and used in cannabis grow rooms to fight spider mites and whiteflies. However, spiromesifen is also toxic for fish and non-target insects.
• Chlorfenapyr: The primary ingredient in Pylon is a miticide and general purpose insecticide used by cannabis growers. It’s been banned for use on fruits and vegetables in several countries, including the European Union. (this has been sneaking into grow rooms in a bomb that looks sorta like Beethoven but has no Etoxazole in it)
• IMIDACLOPRID - aka Mallet this may be the other one I have confused with the abamectin as it is systemic as well as a cannabis "no no", at least in my world. Great for your dogs fleas and ticks though...

   If I'm playing devils advocate with a new miticide or the like I'll cross reference it with Washington State's approved pesticide use list for cannabis... Regardless of what your growing they are truly the strictest around when it comes to stuff in this area of cultivation.... They have one of the largest and most diverse micro herd colonies in the world and it exists naturally there, so they do their best to protect it.

   The best rule of thumb for those that don't like to read labels is if "it kills everything" it kills people too. Also, if it's not safe to use on edibles, then it definitely isn't safe for combustibles, especially if your concentrating your flower as the residual stuff can get concentrated too .

   If your killing bugs on a budget I get it , and I've been there, but I can assure you, you aren't doing anyone any favors if your buying bug stuff at a hardware store and not reading labels. MOST of the stuff there is not safe for cannabis(Permethrins are the primary ones to avoid), and the organic stuff isn't normally strong enough for active bug problems (unless its a safer brand concentrate, or a comparable concentrated bottle not a RTU spray bottle). 

 

    Beginning with a properly mixed iso alcohol and water foliar then adding stuff like Regalia, Venerate, Terraguard (scaled growers only it's pricey but good), or OG Biowar's root and foliar packs at a 1:1 ratio for a foliar session following the week of iso sprays. Properly used and timed these are biological warfare that won't wreck a pot smokers body or a pot farmer's conscience. While ladybugs seem like a great idea, they won't eradicate a bug population like mantises will, and they poop indiscriminately all over your bud and once you know what ladybug poop taste like through your bowl you will never use them again. I promise I can taste it and am waiting for someone to demonstrate scientifically how horrible it is to smoke ladybug poop cause it can't be good for you.

 

** Apologies to the op for my confusion about the abamectin and the long diatribe that followed, but I spray a lot and I really want folks to know these bugs don't have to be soo brutal on us. You may be using it on mothers and after 90 days they are good for cloning again (that's the flora-mite SC rule for those of you using it).Please don't feel like I'm giving anyone shite for using a heavy hitter, as I have laid more than my fair share of mushroom clouds, mostly due to my own ignorance. I just feel we are all better for avoiding them if and when possible.**

 

 

 

[blackpoolbouncer]

Honestly just buy some predators.

 

I dont know why people are still pissing in the wind with sprays these days

[Thai Stick]

9 hours ago, blackpoolbouncer said:

Honestly just buy some predators.

 

I dont know why people are still pissing in the wind with sprays these days

I've been trying to get hold of some predators out here in Thailand but cannot find anybody.
Closest i've got is some guy selling seeds for some sort of vegetable that ladybugs are attracted to, so its up to you to grow the plant and catch the ladybugs yourself!

Reckon other predatory mites such as Phytoseiulus Persimilis can ship internationally well?
Failing that, any information on how to breed Phytoseiulus Persimilis

Edited March 28, 2021 by Thai Stick

[Thai Stick]

The only product i have found over here that claims to "kill bed bugs including chemical-resistant dust mites, spider mites, russet mites, broad mites, powdery mildew, aphids, gnats, mold spores & their eggs" and is what looks like a tea bag containing a combination of wormwood, basil leaves, ceratoides, green peppercorn and citrus leaves....
Never heard of a product like that and how it would work...

[Wacky Wardrobe]

29 minutes ago, Thai Stick said:

any information on how to breed Phytoseiulus Persimilis

If you google mass rearing Phytoseiulus Persimilis look for a link to researchgate.com and a link to a scholarly write up with pictures etc.

I had a look before but it's pretty involved and involves the mass rearing of spider mites!!

[Ragged Trousered Phil]

On 28/03/2021 at 8:15 AM, blackpoolbouncer said:

Honestly just buy some predators.

 

I dont know why people are still pissing in the wind with sprays these days

Hi BB, just wanna say how inspired I am by your work and total altruism for the community. I'm 2/3rds of the way through your stickie in the Dinafem section and it makes for great reading. Thank you so much. 

 

I'm a grower of 5 plants over the past 38 years or so. First one was at 10 years old, where I would move my mum's plant from window to window while she was at work and I was home during the 6 week's summer holiday. So it counts, haha. 

Then about a year ago a mate gave me a pip to grow in lockdown (2nd ever grow) because we both agreed that supply would dry up. Much like yourself though, I don't want to spend money on shit weed and support massive organised crime. 

 

Anyways, having lurked for a while, much like yourself haha, here I am with a couple of questions having grown a few plants with varying degrees of success, the last one being my best but having experienced problems on all grows. 

Are there predators for all types of invaders? 

What have you used in the past and what for?

How easy is it to buy predators? 

 

Thank You in anticipation. 

 

RTP 

[blackpoolbouncer]

12 hours ago, Ragged Trousered Phil said:

 

Are there predators for all types of invaders? 

What have you used in the past and what for?

How easy is it to buy predators? 

 

Thank You in anticipation. 

1. Mostly yes. Its only generally spider mites and thrips to worry about generally with canna. 

Aphids are a fucker but not such a common pest indoors.

2. I use phytoselieus persmilis loose and sachets of amblyseius californicus to treat mites. 

After a bit of experimentation this combo works very well indeed. Tried amblyseius andersonii but didn't rate thier effectiveness.

 

I also use a predator for thrips which I forget its name but I need to order some.

All the info and help you need can be found at dragonfli.co.uk

I'm not sure if others do them now but I've used them for years and they are excellent. 

 

There are also fungus drench like beauvaria bassiana which is parasitic to a lot of arthropods, bacillus thuringiensis which disturbs the gut flora of certain insects.

 

Nematodes for all sorts of pests too. 

Nature has all the answers as usual

 

Thank your for the kind words Phil 

Glad you've enjoyed the read my friend. Put little smile on my face over the last few weeks seeing your notifications from that thread. Makes me happy knowing its still a used resource.

 

 

One love

[RMW!24]

Hi ....I am a novice, so pls dont pay too much heed to this, but i seem to have recently totally eradicated a bad spider mite infestation (from clones).

 

I used Rape seed oil in combination with Westland Rose Guard and diatomaceous earth. This has eradicated all sign of pests, and have seen no activity for over 3 weeks. 

 

I applied the oil and rose guard in turn every 2 days, and then I mixed them together for the final application. I sprinkle diatamacoues earth once a week as a precaution.