Guest anarchycamp Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Hey all, so I'm just over a week into my grow, originally started off in 60cm propagation tent but wanted to do two autos so I've made a start on my wardrobe. I'm working with 100w x 50d space, enough for two plants using the scrog method I think? The height is 170cm but im losing a fair bit of space to the filter/fan and lights. Going to be sticking up b/w sheeting at the weekend as I've got a few air/light gap issues that need tending to. Is it worth paying a little extra for mylar or will b/w and weather foam do the job fine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joint hogger Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 normally I'd say just paint it white but looking at your door hinges, theyre a pain to light proof as theyre the same on my veg cab, so your better using B&W or the thicker heavy duty mylar & a staple gun, I'd also advise you to add at least another air intake hole as one isnt enough. if your worried about light leaks coming through your passive air intake, you can get black cooker filter hood material, works great as a light blocker & filters air going through it. also, you have to be careful with the placement of any air circulatory fans in case theyre blowing smelly air towards any passive air intake holes, I'd see if you can have the fan hanging upside down blowing/across the plants using bungee cables. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest anarchycamp Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 @Joint hoggerAh good point, it is pointing straight at the crack in the door haha, I'll get it hung up, would one suffice for the time being? I was thinking take the hinges off to put the sheeting on then just screw them back in, the matt paint just wasnt cutting it and the back is like a wobble board with a hole lot of problems. I'll get onto putting another passive air intake in when I can get my hands on another drill, blew mine on the bottom hole and had to spin the holesaw by hand... Probably should have gone corded:$ Cheers for checking out my attempt and for the advice, will post more pictures when I get the sheeting/light issues sorted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Bonglington Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I glued all the sheeting onto my drobe before I put it together, and fitted the hinges after mate, much easier. Spray adhesive is your friend here. Those flimsy back panels are a pain in the arse, I wish I'd fitted a solid ply back instead, it would be better for strength and sound deadening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest anarchycamp Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 @Captain BonglingtonI'm guessing the spray adhesive would be a nightmare to remove when the time comes though? I'll take everything out this weekend, thats what I get when I jump the gun a bit! They really are! I painted the back panel a few times and each time I came back there were more issues to deal with. In hindsight I would have left them in the propagation tent for a week or so more but I needed to do some space saving, my clothes are now hung up in there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joint hogger Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 you can strengthen up the back panel with wood straps, thats what I did on the veg cab & on my cousins wardrobe, it also allowed me to fit a couple of vent holes with vent covers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest anarchycamp Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 I doubt I could make any holes in the back unless it was strengthened, do you mean metal brackets or just wood strips? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joint hogger Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 (edited) wood batons, I think they were 18mm x 34mm & were about £2 for 6ft lengths. this is how the back of my cab looked like before strengthening it & cutting out the vent holes. & heres some pics of how I light proofed the front of the cab with using the same 18mm x 34mm wood batons. Edited March 1, 2017 by Joint hogger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest anarchycamp Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 I guess I could do that, but it still has a centre split which is one of the main reasons its so flimsy. Could I not just put another passive intake at the side and have the sheeting taped straight up? Loving the cab! @Joint hogger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joint hogger Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 (edited) thats easy, just run a bit of baton up the middle of the two sections & use loads of No Nails I would avoid cutting another hole into the side of the wardrobe with the vent hole as you'd be weakening the load bearing ability of the wardrobe overall as the side's are structural. Edited March 1, 2017 by Joint hogger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest anarchycamp Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Doiii, good point! Cheers guys, will update more over the next few days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joint hogger Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 if you do cut out vent holes, you can get vent covers for a few £ & if you check out ebay (suds), look for cooker hood carbon filter, they work as great light blockers & help filter any crap or bugs from being drawn in. they cost about £3 & measure 570mm x 470mm, then just cut them slightly bigger than the vent hole & stapple them on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest anarchycamp Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Decided to crack on, I strengthened the back using batons:D Loads sturdier now, drilled two new vent holes(borrowed the neighbours drill) and will order some filter material tomorrow. Do I necessarily need to have vent covers aswell or will the filter work ok on its own? I know, I know I should have measured the heights Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest anarchycamp Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 Finally started on the sheeting, the shop had no mylar but sold me the next one up for the same price. Bonza! Silver foil tape is a nightmare to use but once its on its pretty stuck so make sure you're definitely in line! Still waiting on the cooker hood filter material which should be here tomorrow. If anyone has any tips on light cracks, that weather foam seal is pants Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest anarchycamp Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 Fitted the scrog, cut vents at the back and stapled cooker filter material around the door edges. This is the only thing that has worked for me! I should really vacuum the floor :| Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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