Guest roxy002 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 After encountering problem after problem, feeding coco pots by hand, I decided to turn my hand to a DIY system. I did look into buying a branded kit off the shelf, but after shopping around I realised that these hydro kits were just made up of parts that can easily be bought/or made yourself. My previous grow was just pots placed on the floor, but as they grew, it was difficult to get between each plant and feed them, also this encouraged mould due to high humidity, and then bud rot. It was hard work, and the plants weren't getting the proper care they needed. The room I have to work with is approx 3.8 m x 2.8 m, and this is the idea I came up with. As you can see by the images, there is 2 tables either side of the room. Both tables are around 850mm wide, the long table is 3.8 long, and the short one is around 2.8 long. The stand from the floor at 900mm high, and are constructed from 3 x 2 CLS timber, and for the tops I have used 18mm sterling board/18mm chipboard. I screwed a length of 3 x 2 along the length of the wall at 880mm high (take into account the 18mm board to be screwed on top. I fixed these ledgers to both sides of the room to suit the length of the table. They are fixed using brown plugs and 4" screws. (Note that I have not used 3 x 2 CLS timber throughout, as I already had some timber hanging about, so for the ledgers, I think I used 4 x 2. Next I measured out from the wall and marked on the floor the width of the table (In my case, it was around 850mm, as I wanted to leave around a 500mm walk way between the tables) Then I screwed another length of 3 x 2 to the floor at this width, making sure that the space of 850mm was the same at both ends. Also is important to check for cables and pipes underneath. There was gas pipes under my floor boards, so rather than leave anything to chance, I used the correct size screws, that was the same length as the thickness of the CLS, and the floor boards combined. I then sank them only slightly into the CLS. I didn't fancy calling out the gas board, in the middle of a grow room build! Once you have done this, fix some noggins to the base plate you have just fitted, at the same height as the ledger on the wall (but minus the thickness of CLS, and an extra 6mm or so)so this would be in my case 854mm, as minus 40mm thickness CLS, and an extra 6mm). I spaced mine at 1 metre centres, but 500mm centres would be the correct thing to do, its, just I didn't have enough timber at the time, but its fine as it is anyway. You can skew the screws in at an angle to fix to the base plate, but make sure you pre drill first, as to not split the timber. Then just fix another length on top of these studs the same length as your ledger, to create a small wall. Make sure the studs are nice and level and then screw the board on top to create a table. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest roxy002 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 (edited) Edited January 13, 2012 by roxy002 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest roxy002 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 The next stage was to fit some corrugated plastic (the stuff used for light weight roofing to allow water to run off) This was cut to 1" longer than the width of the table and fixed using clear silicone, making sure plenty was put on the joins. Because the one side of the table is 6mm lower than the other, this should be just enough to allow water to drip off. I marked the plastic out with a permanent marker and a level, then cut it using aviation snips (the sort used for snipping thin metal sheets) Also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest roxy002 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 The next stage for me was to fit the guttering to the side of the table. I used some 76mm miniflo guttering from B&Q. I did buy the brackets for this guttering that it clips in to, but then realised that I had a big enough overhang on the corrigated plastic, as the bracket brought it forward from the frame too much. So, to rectify this, I simply just pre drilled the guttering and screwed it straight to the table. In fact, there is no need for the brackets, as this works fine without them. So you can save on money by not buying them, as its these parts that cost the most. Obviously remember to have a slight fall on the guttering, as to allow the nutrients to run freely into the waste container that will be under the table. Once the guttering is fitted, then you will need to fit the connection on the end for the drain pipe to fit into. These are sold at B&Q also, and are simple to push together. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest roxy002 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest roxy002 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 I have not completed the longer table yet, but the guttering on this one will be slightly different, as the table is longer. The drain pipe will be in the middle of the frame, rather than at the end like the other one. So there will be 2 pieces of guttering the same length that will meet in the middle and fit into the down pipe connection that will then lead to the waste container. Obviously both lengths of guttering will have a fall on them into the middle. The stage I am at now is designing and building the manifold from 22mm speed fit PVC tubing and speed fit connectors. I will update this thread shortly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Snax Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 nice ss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest roxy002 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 I have not yet finished the PVC manifolds yet, as I have been busy trying to source the right materials. I have started on the manifold for the smaller table first. The materials list as follows: 2 x 2 metre lengths of 22mm speed fit PVC tubing 2 x 22mm speed fit stop ends 1 x 22mm speed fit Tee 1 x 22mm speed fit elbow 14 lengths of 6mm tubing cut at required lengths to reach pots 14 top hat rubber grommets for 6mm tube 14 x 6mm straight connectors 14 x 6mm Tee connectors I placed all 14 pots onto the table (7 rows of 2) into their position, evenly spaced out, then placed a length of 22mm PVC tube along the length of the table, between the pots. I then cut the the tubing closest to the middle of the table, and then fitted in a Tee piece. I then fitted 2 stop ends to either end of the tube, and placed a dot with a marker evenly spaced, where the 6mm tubing will be fitted to feed the pots. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest roxy002 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest roxy002 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Once these small rubber grommets arrive, I will be drilling 14 holes with the correct size drill bit and then inserting them into the holes. I will then place the straight 6mm tube connectors into the grommets and the fit the 6mm tubing onto this at the correct length to reach the pot. On the end I will then be fitting a 6mm Tee piece, and then a length of 6mm tubing onto both ends of the Tee to create a ring that fits perfectly into the pot and around the plant. Small holes will then be pierced into the ring to create a drip ring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest roxy002 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 I shall be updating this thread as soon as possible, as things progress. Once the manifolds are completed, they will then be connected to a pump, which will be inside the reservoir underneath the table. The pots will then be drip fed, until there is around 20% run of, and then the pumps will turn off. This will be repeated as necessary. The waste, will drip from the table, into the guttering, down the waste pipe and into a separate reservoir under the table. As this project is not yet complete, and this is my first time building something like this, then all comments, suggestions and criticism are welcome. I am still wondering whether to have the nutrient drained back into the feed reservoir and recirculated? Also, if anyone could suggest the correct pump, in terms of litres per hour, and the sort of feed schedule I should be aiming for, I would be grateful. Thanks for reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest roxy002 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Also, some other set up info 4 x 600w HPS 1 x 10" carbon filer, suspended from ceiling between tables 1 x 10" inline fan connected to filter, extracting through chimney 2 x osculating fans 1 x ceiling fan I am looking to make a board with all sockets, and timers, relay switches etc on, but the building where the grow room is, doesn't have a consumer unit or RCD fitted, so if anyone could give advice on helping to sort the electrics out, I don't mind attempting this myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rellik Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 That is a wicked setup mate obviously a lot of thought gone into it how much do you think you spent total for the system?? cant believe only one reply to so much detail wheres everybody else c'mon peeps this deserves a well done at least 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobo Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 I totally agree, this is a superb bit of DIY. Meticulously planned. Great work roxy. Cant wait to see it in action. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Where Angels Play Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Cracking job both in the room and in this thread roxy. It's threads like these that make this site one of the best/if not the best around. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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