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Guest Red Dragon

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hello i am looking at buying BioBizz 50L Light-Mix Potting Soil Bag from amazon has anyone used it before or should i get Canna 50L Terra Professional Soil Mix Bag instead i have heard canna is good but others have said you cannot go wrong with biobizz i want it for a outside grow any help will be very much appreciated 

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Just get a small bag 10 LTRs of light mix and use that for starting them off in first pot on mate then you can go with the all-mix larger bag 

I use lightmix for start then currently using house and gardens batspecial mix and seems to have less big lumps of wood string ect on it than the bag of all mix I had last time

 

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You really can't go wrong with Bio Bizz. 

 

I've used light mix and all mix. Light mix is fine for potting up seedlings. Then All Mix for finals and you'll be fine for 4-6 weeks before requiring nutes,but that changes with strains.

 

There have been hundreds of  thousands of grows done in Bio Bizz and you'll rarely find a bad word between them. That also means there is a whole mountain of grow information out there should you get stuck,but shout here if you need any advice.

 

Here's a bit of an explanation as to how Bio Bizz products are used with each other straight from Bio Bizz themselves but on another site.....

I thought I'd share an email I got from BioBizz concerning different questions that seem to be popping up again and again so here we go.

Question: Everyone knows that charts are just an avarage and every plant is different. But let's say the values given are indeed an avarage of nutes to use and let's say we'd have a plant that has an avarage tolerance to nutrients. Would it be a good idea to really use all the products all together at full dose during an entire grow? Isn't using all products all together making the solution a bit too hot for the plants? Or would this actually be very beneficial? Noeone on forums can tell because nobody has yet used them all, not that I know.

Answer: So, a super interesting topic! Good you askJ First of all : the Grow schedule is not the bible. It is a general guideline that gives the maximum dosages and when to start using which product, or when to stop. If you would use all products at the same time you do not need to worry that much, since you are only using maximum to NPK products: Bio-grow or Fish-Mix and Bio-Bloom. All other products are stimulators that compliment the nutrients, improve assimilation, metabolism, chlorophyll production etc etc etc.
We try to give a divers menu to the plants. If you want to live healthy, you do not eat a hamburger with a hamburger and a hamburger for desert. You’d eat a hamburger, with a salad, some orange juice, a yogurt or cheese for desert and maybe a small digestive afterwards. This is the function of the stimulators: Root-juice, Bio-Heaven, Top-max, Alg-a-Mic and Acti-vera.

Try to see it like this: You use as a basis Bio-grow or Fish-Mix and Bio-Bloom. The stimulators are your tools to guide your plants into the direction you want to go, or enrich them. You make the menu for your plants, depending on the type of plants, their age, the moment in the cycle and of course the type of genetics. Here some key caracters of the stimulators:

Root-juice: besides a root stimulator, it protects the roots again the most common root diseases and protects against over feeding
Alg-a-Mic: repairs damage from overfeeding, boost calcium and magnesium assimilation, boost production of chlorophyll
Top-max: improves density of the flowers and stimulates natural sugar production ( taste improvement )
Bio-heaven: accelerates flowering, boosts mineral assimilation,
Acti-Vera: improves metabolism, full of essential enzymes and amazing for seeds that have just hatched. Aloë vera rules!

Some people simply use all products at the same time. But as soon as you know your favorite genetics inside-out, you use the stimulators as supplements at the moment you think the plants need it.


Question: Presuming we would be sticking to the official chart, should we be feeding nutrients every time we water the plants or alternate water with nutes? People actually argue about how long it takes for the nutrients to become active in the soil and how long it takes for the plant to react to nutrient changes. Some say it takes up to 3 days which then implies a bit of 'thinking' ahead. If it takes that long, alternating nutes and plain water would be really counter-productive. The question is about the built up in the soil. There's lots of rumors around this as well.

Answer: We prefer you give water with Biobizz every time you water the plants. If you switch between just clear water one time and water with nutrients the second time, you’ll have every time different Ec/pH levels. Every time the plants need to adjust.

Indeed, the organic material in Biobizz products needs time to decompose inside the soil. About 30% is available immediately, the rest becomes available in 1-3 days maximum. 

What you can do is this: you start with 50% of the recommended dosages and use Biobizz every time you water the plants. You stay at this percentage or slowly increase if the plants demand it. Organic gardening is all about the visual connection with your plants.

Question: Should we consider the chart as the absolute maximum of nutes to use or is it really just an avarage?

Answer: The schedule is the general guideline. With these dosages we think it is almost impossible to not get a good result. But as we stated above: try to see the guideline as an indication for maximum dosages and when to start/ stop using products. No more no less


Question: Most people, including myself do think that this is the right way to mix the nutes:
Leave the bucket with tap water for 24 hours to get the chlorine etc. evaporated.
Add all desired nutes and just feed it to the plants (in case of BioBizz soil of course)

Answer: PERFECT! ;-)


Question: After adding the nutes to the water, what to do?

Quote " BioBizz says if your ph is between 7.0 and 7.3 it's just perfect. Don't change anything! Feed it to the plants and the soil will buffer the rest. "
Ok. I believe that it works just fine like that as I was never measuring ph.
STILL the question is: what would happen if you were using organic ph-down like canna ph down or earthjuice to drop this 7.3 nutrient solution to 6.3 from the start, before feeding? Would this be counter-productive for getting the right ph or actually help the soil getting it right faster? It's hard to tell because these ph meters in soil can't always be really trusted and opinions vastly differ.

Answer: Again, a very good question. First of all: always measure the pH, measuring = knowledge. Now here is how Biobizz works:

Our soil has a pH of 6,1-6,2. This is the perfect pH for using our liquid products. When you water the plants, the Biobizz products start to decompose, with the help of the micro-life in the soil, the organic material breaks down and the pH always stay naturally at 6,1-6,2. So if the water you give has a pH of for instance 7,0-7,3, the micro-life will ensure the pH in the soil will drop to the desired 6,1-6,2. This is why you never had problems, because you let nature do it’s work.

Now, the micro-life can lower the pH to 6,1-6,2, but if you feed water with a pH lower then 6,1-6,2 you can have a problem. The micro-life can lower the pH, but not increase it. So basically: as long as your water, mixed with Biobizz is above 6,2-6,3 ( give it a bit of margin ) you are just fine. Of course, when you have tab water with a pH of 9,0 ( which happens ), you will have an issue anyway. Try to avoid the use of pH correction products. Try to rely on the micro-life to do the work.Non-organic pH products will damage the micro-life we rely on so much. 


Well you now have the most up to date info from Biobizz directly. Hope you can put this info to good use! A pleasure to communicate these topics with you. We hope this message contains enough info to help fine –tune your own personal schedule.

Thanks for helping us start the fucking Blue Monday in a nice way. And no worries, we can talk about Biobizz all day. We have a feeling this will not be the last time we speakJ 

Best regards, Biobizz Mister Bloom. 

Edited by Badbadger
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Im using ot1 biobizz schedule.

currently in week 4 of flower and the plants are starting to yellow pretty quickly.

 

already given them the dose of epsom salts last week but this yellowing looks to me like an N def.

 

whats the recommendation? Up the grow? 

Currently they are on 1ml grow and 2ml bloom around day 25 flower.

 

got the same cuttings in some coco and they are fine and green. Only the ones in bat special and using biobizz that are yellowing

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On 07/12/2013 at 11:03 PM, L'Emmerdeur said:

 

No, I don't. You aren't an examiner; and your advice is wrong.

There's absolutely no need to flush, "at least a few times through the course of a grow". Especially with organic nutrients.

There's no need to measure or adjust the pH in potting compost with organic nutrients.

Out of interest, what gets changed to 8 hours?

 

You do not have to flush during the grow AND you do have to keep an eye on pH. Such BS advice has cost me in the past, you guys should know better or keep it buttoned imho.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 04/01/2005 at 10:30 AM, oldtimer1 said:

Remembering these figures do not really tell the whole story and can not be used in the same way as disolved chemical salts. Added comment lowering the phosphate and raising the potash make for a better potential npk balance at the end of a plants life. So 2 grow and 1 bloom will give a ratio of [1.5 - 0.9 - 5]

Grow (1.8 - 0.1 - 6.6)

Bloom (1 - 2.5 - 2)

Fish (2.1- 0.2 - 6.6)

PRE-MIX ANALYSE GUARANTEED

Total Nitrogen (N)…………….....………….3%

    1.5% Water Soluble Nitrogen

    1.5% Water Insoluble Nitrogen

Available Phosphate (P2O5)……………..3%

Soluble Potash (K2O)…………...………….5%

Magnesium (Mg)……………………......……3%

Derived from: Soybean Meal, Molasses, Green kelp, Seaweed, and Composted Chicken Manure all from wild or organic products.

There is still something not resolved and I do not know if something has been changed.

 

 

Would love to give BioBizz a go but the ratios have change somewhat 

Grow (4-3-6)

Bloom (2-7-4)

Fish (5-1-4)

Would the guide from page 1 still apply or now the ratios have changed would it need tweaking at all. If the guide is still right could FishMix be used instead of grow?

 

Thanks

Ryan

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Used Biobizz light one time when the all mix was out of stock. Aside from adding nutes earlier there is no difference. Never had trouble potting up clones direct to all mix. Seeds, I find its just the same results only you do not need to guesswork when to feed as they are good for 4-6 weeks when young in the soil alone with water. Less if you start in a small pot.

 

As for buying off Amazon, make sure the seller wraps it up for stealth. Some get lazy and will dump a bag on your doorstep in plain view of any passing wrongun.

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On 24/02/2018 at 8:39 AM, Wiggles41 said:

 

You do not have to flush during the grow AND you do have to keep an eye on pH. Such BS advice has cost me in the past, you guys should know better or keep it buttoned imho.

Haven't ph'd water for 25+ years, grown plenty of organic weed. 

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On 25/03/2018 at 4:13 PM, Muppet said:

Haven't ph'd water for 25+ years, grown plenty of organic weed. 

 

Again with the misleading advice/posts lol

 

Obviously many people need to watch pH due to their water probably. Posts like yours just mislead people by making them think that they'll be ok too then at 3 weeks it starts to go tits-up. Comes across as a bit of a brag also 'I've never had to blah blah..' Typical of the internet I suppose.

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8 minutes ago, Wiggles41 said:

 

Again with the misleading advice/posts lol

 

Obviously many people need to watch pH due to their water probably. Posts like yours just mislead people by making them think that they'll be ok too then at 3 weeks it starts to go tits-up. Comes across as a bit of a brag also 'I've never had to blah blah..' Typical of the internet I suppose.

As long as the pH of your tap water is reasonable to begin with (5.5 - 8) then the compost will buffer it. To what exactly will depend upon the compost and what's happening where in the nitrogen cycle.

Posts that over complicate matters don't help anyone. 

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