Hash Screen Sizes

[grobag]

Madgiz posted up a link in a thread which had some great information in it, so rather than it be lost or hard to find I've written it up here in a table for easy reference.

When making your own hash and making your own equipment first aswell before starting on the hash, it is best to buy a screen or two and either dry sift through them or use them as a filter for bubble hash. Different people have different preferences for screen sizes when making hash but these are mine, so you have a rough guideline as to what you want to buy. For bubble hash; if only using one screen to filter and one to catch then I'd go for 220 microns(m) and 25m respectively (like two Bubble Bags to get the most hash, add a 73m for three screens) but if say using 7 screens then I'd go for 220, 170, 160, 120, 73, 45, 25m (again like bubble bags). For dry sifting I use different sizes of screens. If only using one screen, with different rubs of varying ferocity, I'd go for a 135m screen. For two screens, however, I'd opt for a 150m and a 72m. Then vary it again for more screens respectively. Bare in mind that with the smallest size bubble bag you are catching resin on top of it without it falling through, but with dry sifting the smallest screen lets through the resin onto a collection tray. Anyway, enough waffle, here's the info:

Threads per cm: Mesh(microns): Thread(microns): Open Area(%): Price per m(£):

43 T....................150....................80.......................43.....................8.75

48 T....................135....................70.......................43.....................10.58

61 T....................92......................64.......................34.....................14.12

77 T....................72......................55.......................27.....................15.68

Mesh = open hole size.

Generally, when buying Bubble Bags/Sacs, sifting boxes, crystal catchers etc, they tell you the screen sizes in microns (of the mesh), but when you buy screens from art shops, printers suppliers etc they give the sizes by the thread count. So the above table makes things easier when it comes to ordering your own screen to make hash making machines/ screens. I'll pin this thread aswell for quick and easy reference.

Happy Hashing.

Edited February 26, 2008 by grobag
clarification

[Hazyhead]

Very useful, cheers grobag.

[Guest Blabblabberbab]

Excellent - nice one G

....now hows about that budder tutorial

B

[grobag]

Excellent - nice one G

....now hows about that budder tutorial

B

What would you like me to do as I'm just about to have a load of trim again? I'm not a budder maker by what I think it is. Basically, as far as I can gather, budder is BHO whipped up so that it has air in it. Basically just a process by which some people purge the BHO of any remaining solvent and not actually changing the composition in any way. I use time and freezing instead.

I could do a few different tutorials though on stuff I've not posted up on here before. I'm settled again now I've moved, sorted my internet access, sorted my camera and will shortly have a whack of trim to play with, so I could do one or two pictoral run throughs of processes that would be most helpful to people. What ones do you reckon? I'll put them into/ and carry on with "Grobag's Hash Thread" linked in my signature if I do.

I get the impression that quite a few people are trying out various IPA oil runs. Although it really isn't my prefered oil and I've already written up my QWISO method without any pictures, I could make a batch of that and post it up.

Plus I've had a play with isomerisation recently so I could do one on that. The only thing is that it's a bit more dangerous (due to strong acids/alkalines being used) and a bit more advanced so I don't think that many people would try it. It basically changes the composition of the cannabinoids so that you get more of the better THC molecules. Again I've basically described the process in my thread already.

Alternatively I could continue with the carbon filtering attempted in the thread already. I've ironed out the wrinkles from the problems experienced in that thread with the addition of a carbon water filter you get in Britta style filter jugs. A stroke of genious if I may say so myself. So I could show the filtering of BHO further into a very pale, near white colour. Plus if I made a batch of IPA oil I could carbon filter that and make cherry oil which many people may remember from years back or seen on their travels etc.

Continuing with the theme of this particular thread I could make a dry sifter system with a couple of the screens mentioned above and show how I do it.

Or I could do anything else that you might want to see done to clear up anything that isn't quite clear. Just let me know eh and I'll get on it shortly.

[Guest Blabblabberbab]

Hi mate - nah the budder thing was sparked off in a recent news thread (budder & cheese worrying police in Canada)

HMT seems to have produced 'budder' but there seems to be a bit of uncertainty about the actual processes after making BHO from high Q bud.

It's the heating of oil in a bain-marie then 'air whipping' i.e. scraping it all up that constitutes what's known as 'budder' in his eyes - but that dosn't sound anything close to the 'isomerisation' process which seems to be involved when you read other articles. Obviously I might have got it arse about face, but it's very difficult to track down much relevant info that's in stoner friendly bite sized nuggets not mad chemistry....

Just interested is all

B

e2a - just read your post properly - it's the isomerisation process that I can't find canna specific info on. I hear you that not many would try it in practise - so is it worth it.... but damn interesting to read about if you did

Cherry oil from IPA extraction sounds really interesting (Brita-I-up!) and more dry sifting shenanigannery (techniques and screen size etc) would be ace - the turkish method you've described is invaluable

Edited February 26, 2008 by Blabblabberbab

[oldtimer1]

You should say that the mesh = the open hole size in microns.

[grobag]

You should say that the mesh = the open hole size in microns.

I've edited the first post. Cheers OT.

[grobag]

it's the isomerisation process that I can't find canna specific info on. I hear you that not many would try it in practise - so is it worth it.... but damn interesting to read about if you did

Here's a link to when I describe the process but not any pictures I'm afraid: Isomerisation

When I get some trim I'll have a play about and take some photos for writing up some different stuff for my thread. :wink:

Edited February 26, 2008 by grobag
spelling

[Guest Blabblabberbab]

Nice cheers G

[Stonehenge]

hey Grobag! just another micron/mesh size/thread enquiry here....

I can get screen from the factory i work in, I've been using the same few metres for years to make dry sift.. I've always thought it was 104 microns... But recently i've noticed all the screens made up are marked either 90T or 110T... Is this too small a hole for most trichs? The weave does seem a lot finer than in the mesh i have at home...

Basically i'm just wondering if dry sifting would work ok with the 90T/110T stuff or would it be more suited to catch the small trichs when making bubble?

Cheers Stonehenge

[grobag]

hey Grobag! just another micron/mesh size/thread enquiry here....

I can get screen from the factory i work in, I've been using the same few metres for years to make dry sift.. I've always thought it was 104 microns... But recently i've noticed all the screens made up are marked either 90T or 110T... Is this too small a hole for most trichs? The weave does seem a lot finer than in the mesh i have at home...

Basically i'm just wondering if dry sifting would work ok with the 90T/110T stuff or would it be more suited to catch the small trichs when making bubble?

Cheers Stonehenge

I'm not exactly sure but my guess would be that the open space between the threads would be just too small. You'll problably get resin through it but lots more resin will be left behind aswell. You're right though that they'd be handy for bubble collection.

[Stonehenge]

Cheers Grobag!

[grobag]

Cheers Grobag!

Cool Slaine, no need to warp spasm eh! I like the avatar mate.

Seriously though, with the really fine meshes you will sift off only the finest resin plus a bit of dust with minimal plant matter coming through (with a 90/110T mesh I'm talking) so the resulting hash will be of a high quality. But when you are dealing with mesh sizes that small you need to consider the actual resin head sizes. The capitate heads you're collecting really do vary in size with maturity and the strain of plant you are growing. If you are only collecting resin from sativa plants, they are palnts you've grown before and made hash with before, and you know a bit about them; you may find that the 90T mesh is exactly what you are looking for. However, if growing a Dutch hybrid Indica strain then I doubt that it'd be the most effective mesh size to use.

I've grown a few strains recently that have come from OldTimer's lines rather than the usual Dutch genetics and due to their sativa leanings they do have very small resin heads in many phenotypes. Size is by no means an indicator of strength by the way . As a result, when sifting nicely dried bud/trim, you require a smaller sized mesh (ie higher thread count or 'T'). That said though I personally still wouldn't go as low as 90T, or as far as 110T, even with such plants unless it was a brief shake for the finest before moving on to a bigger mesh (lower thread count) or oiling the remains.

Just to give a better answer than my basic one in the wee hours eh . It's good to discuss specifics like this I reckon, to clarify it all.

[Stonehenge]

Cool Slaine, no need to warp spasm eh! I like the avatar mate.

First one to comment on it! I'd rather have your avatar than Slaine in my living room mind

i'm growing hybrids so the 90t will have to wait! Do want to try some sats next though.. so i'll probably liberate a bit of screen for that..

Cheers again mate...

Stonehenge

[madgiz]

....now hows about that budder tutorial :wink:

Do you mean this one....

I think a few people think that 'iso', is honey oil made from isopropyol alochol, made in a similar fashion to bho. soak it let it evaporate, smoke oil. BUT

Isomerization (forgive spelling), is an additional chemical step that converts the delta 9-thc, to delta 6-thc. activating a lot of the normally non-active cannibaloids, making the high more psycadellic. like sativas are more head high, and 'laughy', isomerizised oil is almost 99% pure thc, even shake becomes this strong. bho is about 70% thc, bubble hash from buds 30/50%, white russian 22%; obviously the difference between chemical extraction / enrichment of thc Vs. the thc content of trichome, origins of crystal, etc. anyway the science:

Materials:

-xylene (found in paint/solvent areas of hardware stores)

-shake or buds

-p-toluenesulfonic (tosic) acid

-mason jar

-hot plate

-set of beakers

-watchglass

-distilled water

-separatory funnel

-paper filter

-hot plate or precision outdoor electric stove

-NaHCO3 (baking soda)

-pH test strips (or ph test kit)

1. Dry, chill, and finely grind shake and put it in a mason jar.

2. Pour enough chilled xylene into the mason jar that the shake is covered by it or begins to float.

3. Shake for 5 minutes, let it sit overnight (you may shake periodically), and pour it through a filter. Collect shake from filter.

4. Shake for 5 minutes, let it sit overnight (you may shake periodically), and pour it through a filter into the same beaker with the liquid from step #3. Discard the shake or residue.

5. Boil off the xylene on the hot plate, making sure to stop as soon as honey oil begins to precipitate out or create long lasting bubbles. Allow to cool.

6. Add enough xylene to redissolve the precipitate.

7. Add <5% p-toluenosulphonic acid solution, drop by drop, until a pH of 2 is

reached. Test this by observing the appearance of a pH test strip under a definite pH of 2-3.

8. Place solution on the hot plate and place a watch-glass over top of the beaker. Reflux for 3-10 hours. Breaking it into multiple sections may or may not cause problems. It can also allow for stirring without loss of acid upon removal of the watch-glass.

9. Remove beaker from hot plate and allow to cool.

10. Drop by drop, add <5% NaHCO3 until a pH of 7.2 or decidedly above that is reached.

11. Add 3vol distilled water and 1vol xylene. Agitate.

12. Transfer to separatory funnel, allow it to settle, and drain off the bottom layer.

13. Add 3vol distilled water, agitate, and repeat step 13.

14. Repeat step 14 once more for purity.

15. Pour solution through filter with activated carbon on top.

16. Distill this solution at about 140C-150C to yield a large amount of“ (--)-(6aR,10aR)-6,6,6-dimethyl-3-pentyl-6a,7,8,10a-tetrahydro-7H-benzo[c]chromen-1-ol ”.

-Dissolve in eucalyptus oil or sesame oil to dilute. Drops under Tounge.

17. budder is whipping air and freezing isomerizied oil. Please note i read TUG's thread here and at reeferman's. the process is right, but budder is not made from bho, it's made from isomerized bho. big difference in quality and kind of high. DA kine had the iso budder. this is the secret step. making bho look like budder is not enough.

Just looking through some old files...