the d.o.c Posted January 9, 2002 Share Posted January 9, 2002 i thought i would start a thread about what other growers used as a foliar feeding mix ?, for example i use a quarter strength solution of my reservoir nutrients when foliar feeding (IONIC) with some wetting agent what different types of nutrient mixes are currently or have been used effectively ,or even unefectively so we know what to avoid? i read recently on an american website that seltzer water (i suppose that would be soda water or basically fizzy water) is good for foliar feeding instead of standard tap water as it is relativly pure and can deliver Co2 straight to the leaf , do you think its a good idea to use seltzer water? ??? :peace: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemp playboy Posted January 11, 2002 Share Posted January 11, 2002 Yeah - I use that - well it's tesco own-brand fizzy mineral water - with a weak Ionic boost solution - through the mister. Every 2 days for the last 4 weeks. Difficult to say how effective it is since there is no control. But I like doing it and the plants look healthier leaf-wise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest THE PUFFER Posted January 14, 2002 Share Posted January 14, 2002 H.P. when you say for the last four weeks, do you mean you mist when flowering ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the d.o.c Posted January 15, 2002 Author Share Posted January 15, 2002 thats what i was thinking ,surley during flowering humidity should be kept to a minimum? it must be the last four weeks of vegging ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemp playboy Posted January 16, 2002 Share Posted January 16, 2002 no - during the flowering - end cycle. I keep humidity down by lowering the temperature to 20c - the weak boost is potassium rich - so I'm trying to give an 'injection' of CO2 and potassium directly into the buddage as it enters its 'death throes'. Not strictly from the manual, granted - but it works well enough - no mould. Keeping the temperature lower artificially removes a lot of problems associated with photosynthesis - and of course - heat is not required in the process - except indirectly for enzyme operation efficiency. honest! :rock: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaya Posted March 10, 2002 Share Posted March 10, 2002 I use the feed water (maxi crop seaweed+sensi bloom)at full strength. Every few days.No problems.I use this for first 4 weeks of flowering,then stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest THE PUFFER Posted March 23, 2002 Share Posted March 23, 2002 Does anyone work with a particular pH with their foliar sprays..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest THE PUFFER Posted March 28, 2002 Share Posted March 28, 2002 Well I do...I try to keep it just under an even keel of 7...usually 6.7-6.9...I also use a couple of drops of washing up liquid rather than waste money on a buyable 'wetting agent'....in fact I must experiment with different flavour washing up liquids Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erowidno4 Posted March 29, 2002 Share Posted March 29, 2002 Thats gotta be false economy Puffer. Maxicrop has to be better, after all it is c weed ! On the subject of flowering I read somewhere is it a good idea to reduce the dark period gradually, if so could someone please fill me in on the details? much appreciated cannacomrades :cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest THE PUFFER Posted March 30, 2002 Share Posted March 30, 2002 Seaweed is in there an'all no.4 If say you wanted to find the genetic of early flowering for crossing...you would gradually decrease the amount of light (from about 18/6), an hour at a time normally, until the first plants start to flower and hey presto....you have your earliest flowerers. If you just wanted to recreate more of a natural feel for your plant, I wouldnt go any lower than 9 hours light to stay growing efficiently. You could gradually lower the on time by 15 minutes every week, leading to a final decrease of about 2 hours. Our 'preferred' method at UK420 is to keep with a 12/12 regime but put your plant into total darkness for 48 hours before harvesting for maximum crystal formation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemp playboy Posted March 30, 2002 Share Posted March 30, 2002 I do reduce the cycle slightly as it approaches harvest - I have it on 11/13 for the last week and then three days before lights go off - I put it on 10/14 - then leave them two days in the dark. :cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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