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light height


dustin boles

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i have read a lot about the ideal distances for 250, 400 600 and 1000. i have a light with two bulbs, one 250 and one 400 hps. can i still leave 12-18 inches between the canopy and the bulbs as with a 400 or do i need a couple more inches? thanks from a newbie.

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I think you might have a problem if they are fitted to the same shade.

The more wattage the bulb has then the deeper the penetration of effective light. i.e. a 600w should be effective for 3' from the bulb.

If you are running two bulbs at different power than the weaker of the two will not be penetrating the canopy enough.

In relation to height people i've spoken to usually start off at the full 3' away when starting flowering(that is if they (plants) have been used to a less intense light.i.e. flourescents. then every 2-3 days drop the height by an inch.

Things to watch out for; overheating can be seen by the plants leaves folding in half like a rizla.

Scorching-if you have good cooling/ventilation then you will be tempted to get the bulb as low as you can. Here the problem is not the heat but the intensity of the light. Signs of this are the tips of the leaves being bleached of colour.

PS. Ideal distances What are they? You are now a member of the 420 extreme growing crew. To the max

lol:D

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I have my 600w at 18" from the plant tops - it also has a heat shield below the bulb to dissipate the heat.

An extra bit of chain hangs from the light - at 18" in distance from the bulb - so it's easy to see if I'm going too high or two low - I usually drop it to 12" int he final 10 days to maximise the bud growth - but pop it back and forth if the heat looks like upseting the plants - some are very tolerant - others much less so.

tata

hp

p.s. Next project is to cool and exhaust the light separately - and put a toughened glass shield below - to up the range of the current set-up.

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HP

considered glass shield myself but was put off by people telling me about the trade off between distance and losing part of the light spectrum using glass?

I use a vented shade and have found it to be very efficient, the actual side of the shade where the ducting is attached is almost cold to the touch.

ps i know of only one shade on the market and it is designed to take a 4" ducting though this can be modified. If i had an old shade already i reckon i just would have taken a pair of tin snips to it i'm gonna do it to enlarge the hole on my current shade anyway.

Also hp if you are thinking about that cylindrical enclosed(with glass shield) unit i was told that due to the lack of reflecting area produced by the small shade there is a trade off.

Mono tells me that in the USA they are just hanging bulbs right in the heart of the grow and not having probs with heat because it's the shade, which they have got rid of, that traps all the heat.

PPS Dustinboles as i said a shop would recommend that a 600w light be kept at 3' but yet again we have a clear (12") example of extreme growing provided by the hemp playboy, naturally B)

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  • 3 weeks later...

High there,

Highlander, what you lose with the 4millimeters (yes 4mm) of glass, you will more than make up for in extra intensity.

Unless you're growing trees, from a special & reliable clone line (eg. Krusty's BC Big Bud), then I would forget hanging bulbs vertically: only really suitable for 1000's of watts.

If you want high yields, pack the area out with small clones, around 4 per square foot, or even start lower and veg. more (yield down a bit, but safer)

All the best

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PS. Highlander - it's Canada where they often hang light vertically, but the rooms are HUGE - check out the "BC Bud To The Max" thread by Gypsy at Overgrow - this thread basically pioneered it on the internet, and Krusty followed.

All the best

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Cheers for that input Trichome,

I bought a "supernova" light and shade which is designed to take a heat shield/glass. Then after hearing about this loss of spectrum i decided not to bother with the glass.

Only today did i decide to carve up my shade so that i get a better light spread for my 3' x4' room. Previously the shade was too curved and closed at the ends.

Oh well.

If I were ever to use a glass heat shield, I would really appreciate it if you could give me some peace of mind with regards to "scorching" , which i have been told is a prob.

ps one or two of my budsites have leaves that appear to be lighter than the others which i am guessing is due to scorch.

These are 12" away from the light while the rsest are 14" or more.

I know that temps are not a problem .

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High Highlander,

You listen to to many rumours man!

When I investigate something, I don't get put off straight away - it's better to completely look into it first, then make your own mind up.

You will lose next to nothing through the glass - anyone who tells you otherwise is either trying to make money out of you, or doesn't know what they're talking about.

I know because I've used glass for a while and the results are outstanding - it's such a great, cool space for the plants, under the glass, because the glass will retain most of the radiated heat from the bulb.

All the best

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Lots to chew on,

I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the heat from the bulb - but I guess it can wait with the Winter coming around soon <_<

Just tarting the system up really - it's performing pretty well as it is - there's just always that temptation to tweak a bit more.

B)

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Cheers for the momentum trichome :ninja:

I reckon I'll follow in hp's footsteps and put it off until the summer.

Great for reducing heat but what about scorch/bleaching?

Is that real or just an urban myth? :oldtoker:

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High there,

Yeah, sure you'll bleach a few leaves if you put HID's a few inches away from the tops, but get the distance right and the buds will be as fat as possible.

Too close to the bulb, and bud formation will be inhibited, of course, and indicated by bright white tops.

I think once you get going, you'll be fine, as you seem to need a lot of re-assurance right now.

Just relax and listen to your plants, rather than trying to over-compensate by asking everyone else.

The plants will show you the way :oldtoker:

All the best

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Onus edit facility, just let me explain a bit further:

Highlander, you see, different strains/phenos need different levels of light intensity to thrive.

The exact distance before light over-saturation will depend on the plants in question; that's why I stress listening to the plants.

All the best

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