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Hydro grow issue - roots


captain_beefheart

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Just now, Herbal Kint said:

See post by owderb,nutes 20 to 22,room 26 to 28c

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the link to that post. So what I take away from that is that Room temp needs to be higher. But not that there is a direct relationship between res temp and room temp.

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Just now, McHazy said:

That one looks like stem rot to me 

 

 

Stem rot - would that be the same as root rot ... or is it from an over saturated rockwool causing the stem to degrade.

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Just now, captain_beefheart said:

 

over saturated rockwool causing the stem to degrade.

Pretty much this as far as I know :yep:

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Just now, stu sleeper 20vt said:

 

But....

I fear you may have root rot.

Which is a tear down job.

BLEACH EVERYTHING including pumps,tubes...everything.

 

Thats annoying. The system in new. Pipe work and res tank. First grow in it. A few trays are from old grows. If there is root rot - it most likely came in from either the tap water or more likely the cuttings themselves when they were in the flood-ebb tray. That particular step of my grow needs upgrading cause its not ideal. Too much light penetration on the roots.

 

I will run a bleach wash when the grow is over.

 

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Just now, stu sleeper 20vt said:

Looks like your lumitek needs winding down a bit...

 

 

Yes - it was adjusted to accommodate the branches creeping in from the neighboring tray.

 

So....

 

 

In you opinion regarding pebbles and pots,

 

Would it work if the pot, with pebbles and a rootriot plug, was placed straight on the spreader mat. And irrigated by the nutrient film technique system (the original NFT delivery tube) rather than direct drip lines to the plugs.

Given that the pots would already have plenty of roots coming out as I would first veg them in a separate tray system in a separate space.

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@captain_beefheart

 

Definitely the rockwool causing your problems bud.

 

You should be able to adapt mesh pots and pebbles to replace the shite blocks, providing everything's lightproofed it should work well.

 

Have a read through my Mish-Mash thread which should answer most of your questions regarding starting seeds/cuttings.

(sorry I don't know how to link - confirmed luddite..:rofl:)

This system is designed to get round all sorts of problems that arise with hydro growing, tag me if there's anything I can help you with.

 

:oldtoker:

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large.IMG_2378.jpg

 

This is my tray running a DIY flood-ebb system for when the rootriot plug clones first go into the rockwool. Light penetrates all around. Not an ideal system but one I have not been able to modify yet.

 

I can see that swapping out the rockwool for baskets would allow me to put a cover over the tray and light proof the roots. Perfect. I will start looking into that now.

 

And dig out the thread 'mish mash' for more ideas.

 

thanks!!

 

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57 minutes ago, stu914 said:

@captain_beefheart

 

Definitely the rockwool causing your problems bud.

 

You should be able to adapt mesh pots and pebbles to replace the shite blocks, providing everything's lightproofed it should work well.

 

 

 

What size mesh pots (in liters) do you use?

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The rock wool would be the problem only until they got out of it..once free it's never been a problem.

Ive done NFT loads of times like this...thats not the problem imo

 

21C air temps probably mean your LST are 2C less than that....Id start there. (I notice the ones under the HPS are doing better)

 

At 0.6 base water unless you factored in the 0.6 through something like hydrobuddy your could be effectively feeding at 0.9EC 

 

Light leak on the first one ?

 

My main concern is why is the pump not on ?   I don't see any water going down them trays....all I see is salt build up.

 

:yep:

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you also have algae on the rockwool blocks,due them being exposed to light. 

they have root and stem issues due to overwatering (because of rockwool blocks)

res temps of 19 are fine, room temps should be between 24-28 degrees. 

you have rot because the cubes have been sitting on the bed. if you insist on using cubes, but a golf tee or three in the underside , but only if its in NFT. If its flood and drain, get some corex and netpots. fill netpots with hydroton which has been rinsed and sat in water at ph5.6 for a couple of days. 

 

or go with uncle Stus system.

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5 minutes ago, captain_beefheart said:

 

 

What size mesh pots (in liters) do you use?

 

They're 4 inch nicked from the Wilma set up, I'm guessing 1/2 ltr?

 

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And here2 in lies the issue with asking such open questions!!

Everyone has theyre own preference,differing experiance and results!!

Personally im with zen-ken on the watering

Are you running pumps 24/7?

Are the trays on enough angle to drain off efficiently?

Get the light out of the rootzone

Raise the led to 3ft

Drop everything but grow or bloom-especially adding pk at flower set!!! Thats made for 3 weeks b4 harvest 

Watch.

Edited by stu sleeper 20vt
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So you aren't running the nft as nutrient film technique?

You have drip lines to each cube individually?

Mate...get some coco.

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Wow thanks guys for so much feedback. There is alot there to process. All good information. Some of it is directlky relevant.

 

I will answer some questions and clarify some observations.:

 

ZenKen: The pump is running, 24 hours. That particular tray has been set to low flow to try and reduce the saturation of the rockwool. There is still 2 liters a minute coming off the tray so its an ok flow rate. The picture did not do a good job of showing it. Not sure why. I am also not sure why there is so much salt build up at such an early stage of the flowering. Seriously worrying deposits.

 

There is no light leak onto the roots in the flowering room. But there is alot of light leak onto the roots in the grow room as shown in the last picture.

 

ZenKen: what does LST stand for???

 

Stu 20vt: The pump runs 24/7 - with this system I built, there is one high power pond pump that sits inside the reservoir. It pumps aerated water up into the room, then the water is split in a manifold and diverts to each tray. At each tray there is a flow control valve. The water is delivered through the standard Nutriculture NFT GT100 delivery pipe - which is a rigid pipe running along the length of the head of the tank with pin head spouts.

 

The trays are all angled. They sit on frames that I built with angles at the correct spec for hydro.

 

There is no light penetration on the root zone. I use black duck tape to close off any tiny gaps.

 

I did not know about PK being used only for the last few weeks. I thought it is for when the first flowers appear. Thanks for the tip. I will stop using it at this stage.

 

It is been run as NFT. Not drip feed.

 

 

 

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Stu194

 

 

I think I shall try out Stu194's technique. I have another room that will be clear in a few weeks. I will pick up some mesh-pots and clay pebbles this week and begin rooting some cuttings in them. Ill set up a tray for the mesh-pots, for whilst they are vegging - that is fully light proofed. Then I will transfer the mesh-pots into this second flowering room and see what happens. I will be putting the mesh pots directly on a spreader mat with NFT delivery. NOT drip irrigation. I hope that the NFT will be ok for this kind of system. Otherwise I will have to set up a drip irrigation - but thats alot more work.

 

I will also raise the room temp to min 24c

And keep lights at 3 foot (1 meter)

 

And ofcourse do a bleach clean of the system before putting in the plants.

 

Is there anything else?

 

 

Stu194 - I am interested to know if you thing the mesh-pot system you use would be ok with the NFT delivery system?

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