Jump to content

Sanitation


seekonce

Recommended Posts

Hi everybody ill start with a bit of background info ... I’m currently running IWS F&D 16mm and With 20 pots under 2400w of hps. I keep things simple with the food and environment and the results aren’t bad, not far from 1g per watt.

 My question is about the plaque build up inside the tank and pipes. I change the res once a week in veg and every 5 days in flower as it stays relatively stable and has a bit of headroom (350L) .. is there anything I’m missing other than scrubbing the tank and replacing the pipes?. I’d also like to be educated on what the “plaque” for lack of better understanding actually is. Today during I change I noticed it had got particularly grim in the chiller feed pipe.
 

thanks  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Salt build up from the minerals in your feed :yep:

 

I cant remember the best stuff to clean it with now.....Vinegar and alcohol equally mixed spring to mind.....One of the main nutrient companies does one as well....takes it straight off.

I just have it with a steel scrubber and bleach these days lol 

 

You using a chiller? that could do with a clean (leave neat clear vinegar in for 48hrs)

Then just a light bleach run through b4 you start (whole system) to ensure no nasties are hiding in the nooks and crannies.

Edited by zen-ken
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I get loads of build up from the crap in my hard water mostly calcium I think, anyways all I do is chuck around 300-400ml  of ph down in my 100 litre res and run the system for 12-24 hours and everything comes out looking like brand new, I’ve tried plenty of cleaning  products in the past and scrubbing the fuck out of everything but ph down works great for me no scrubbing needed at all.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the sound of this, cropping next week and it's a right pia getting the system cleaned without pulling it all out, that's an even bigger PIA!!

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Canna do a product called D block that you can run through your system, apparently works really well with drippers and autopots.

 

Ive been looking at it for the blumats.

Edited by Tegridy Farms
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 04/12/2021 at 8:03 PM, kronic420 said:

ph down works great

 

You're right bud it certainly does... @badbillybob & @zen-ken take note fellas, this method's a game changer for me...

 

I tried it in my 25ltr dwc yesterday and it was pretty crusty... 25ltr water + 100ml ph down running with one golfball airstone for about 24 hrs.

(I left the aquarium heater in, partly to heat and activate the water, partly to clean it)

 

Sparkling clean this morning, no sludge just some rather murky water...very impressed, no more bleaching/scrubbing/humping 100ltr res in and out.

 

Just drain and refill once to rinse everything out and it's ready to go...thanks to @kronic420 for the heads up...:yep:

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 04/12/2021 at 8:03 PM, kronic420 said:

I get loads of build up from the crap in my hard water mostly calcium I think, anyways all I do is chuck around 300-400ml  of ph down in my 100 litre res and run the system for 12-24 hours and everything comes out looking like brand new

 

As you've said, but for clarification, its calcium carbonate that forms insoluables and cakes all the trays/pipes etc up. When you add phosphoric acid (ph down) in enough quantity it breaks the carbonate bond (neutralises the alkalinity) and releases the calcium from the carbonate, which is why it helps to clean the tank/pipe etc.

 

If you're in a hard water area, its good practice to use nitric acid or sulfuric acid as this neutralises the alkalinity easier and at a lower dilution, than phosphoric acid does. Most good hard water nutrient formulations come buffered with nitric acid, and about half as much calcium and magnesium as the soft water counter part, to account for the available calcium and magnesium from the water supply once the nitric acid has neutralised the alkalinity by breaking the elements from the carbonate bond. 

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone know anything about Canna D Block or ATA Clean?

Anyone used it?

Sounds like just what I need, but I'm a bit sceptical.

It is added to your nutrient\water mix, which sounds a bit drastic.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@SmokeTester

quote from canna site…

 

“CANNA D-Block is an organic product based on anionic detergents. It cleans and prevents obstructions in drip and spraying systems during cultivation. It also prevents the build-up of precipitant.”

 

“Use CANNA D-Block pre-emptively with every irrigation (the product is completely non-toxic) and make sure that the pipes and dripper remain wet internally between irrigations.”

 

Just trying to find out what they actually put in the bottle…

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@kronic420 @stu914 @GSZZ Interesting read, will this method (using 300-400ml ph down) kill all nastiest in my pipes and feed lines whilst removing all the salt build up, pretty much an all in one cleaner?? 
 

Also, what’s the best preventative product I should be using in my res whilst it’s in use? I was using Dutch pros keep it clean.

 

Ive since lost young plants to stem rot so I want to avoid any issues with making sure I have a good cleaning regime for my watering system. Thanks 

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. Privacy Policy Terms of Use