marcjuna Posted September 16, 2021 Share Posted September 16, 2021 Would it make sense to over winter feeds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MindSoup Posted September 16, 2021 Share Posted September 16, 2021 (edited) Depends what the feed is, mulch/manure etc takes a while to become fully available, so if you're starting a new bed, it a good idea to start in late summer/autumn for the next season, not essential as bpb has mentioned but all beds get better with time. Stuff like blood fish & bone or potash break down relatively quickly so I'm nor sure there would be much benefit of letting it "cook" for too long. Edited September 16, 2021 by MindSoup 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillybonker Posted September 18, 2021 Author Share Posted September 18, 2021 On 9/16/2021 at 7:29 AM, blackpoolbouncer said: Very little requires cooking apart from concentrated chicken manure a d even that's fine to use, just not direct on young plants. Cookings for making dinner and people who make supersoil too hot for container plants. Your growing in the ground. You don't need to cook anything This whole game is nowhere near as complicated as your think it is That's good news for me that I won't have to cook anything because I'm running out of time. Yeah I think I do tend to over complicate things. Thanks for the advice:) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackpoolbouncer Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 No problem mate. Good luck on your adventure 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillybonker Posted September 18, 2021 Author Share Posted September 18, 2021 On 9/16/2021 at 8:42 PM, MindSoup said: Depends what the feed is, mulch/manure etc takes a while to become fully available, so if you're starting a new bed, it a good idea to start in late summer/autumn for the next season, not essential as bpb has mentioned but all beds get better with time. Stuff like blood fish & bone or potash break down relatively quickly so I'm nor sure there would be much benefit of letting it "cook" for too long. Yep I read fish blood & bone & potash break down relatively quickly. I might start the plants off in animal blood & bone + small amount of potash because it's the easiest thing to get hold of right now while we are on lock down. I'll add fish blood & bone later on when I can get my hands on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillybonker Posted September 18, 2021 Author Share Posted September 18, 2021 On 9/16/2021 at 8:35 AM, MindSoup said: @Phillybonker sounds good would be interested to see the results of old widow outdoors. Yeah although I would say no till is best, it can be inconvenient for a lot of GG plots if suitable mulch can't be found near by, and its not the only way to get good results. You might find the soil is already good on a lot of sites, as long as its got some air/fluff to it, then just dig a decent hole, loosen up what came out of it, mix in some BFB and replace. If its a bit too heavy then mixing in a bit of coco can work well, get the compressed blocks and rehydrate on site. Start top dressing with potash when flower starts. You can use all kinds of alternative/wild materials as mulch, try and find some New Zealand specific permaculture/ no till sources of info, I'm sure there'll be some out there. Some sites have dark healthy soil while other sites have light brown soil mixed with small amounts of sand. The light brown soil is fluffy but might require extra compost. Yes I was going to top dress it with potash when flowering starts but do you think I should add a small amount potash at the start of the grow? I'll look into New Zealand specific permaculture/no till sources of info as well. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MindSoup Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 If your using b+b (no f ) then yeah some potash could help too but you'll still be lacking k. You could go blood and bone and bury a couple of fish heads as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillybonker Posted September 22, 2021 Author Share Posted September 22, 2021 On 9/18/2021 at 8:43 AM, MindSoup said: If your using b+b (no f ) then yeah some potash could help too but you'll still be lacking k. You could go blood and bone and bury a couple of fish heads as well. This potash has got NPK: 0 - 0 - 41 .https://www.bunnings.co.nz/yates-thrive-2-5kg-certified-organic-natural-sulfate-of-potash_p0329252 Do you think that will be enough K?, or still throw in a couple of fish heads?, nice idea with the fish heads btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MindSoup Posted September 22, 2021 Share Posted September 22, 2021 Sorry I got my number mixed up, B+B and some SOP will be a pretty good balance tbf. If you can find a bit of kelp meal that would also be a good addition, its mull of micro nutrients and a natural growth stimulator. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 22, 2021 Share Posted September 22, 2021 Nevil bloody bartos! Im flyiiiiing mate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillybonker Posted September 23, 2021 Author Share Posted September 23, 2021 On 9/22/2021 at 7:45 PM, MindSoup said: Sorry I got my number mixed up, B+B and some SOP will be a pretty good balance tbf. If you can find a bit of kelp meal that would also be a good addition, its mull of micro nutrients and a natural growth stimulator. I got this: Thrive 500ml Natural Seaweed Plant Tonic Concentrate - Bunnings New Zealand It's 100% made from bull kelp. It's a liquid seaweed concentrate recently certified for organic inputs and it should be faster release than kelp meal which I think takes 4 months to kick in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackpoolbouncer Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 12 hours ago, Phillybonker said: it should be faster release than kelp meal which I think takes 4 months to kick in. Liquid kelp is almost immediately available. If your soil is active kelp meal will start to break down and start to release in a week or two as worms and other associated decomposers move into it and continue for about 4 months. Its slow release but not that slow it takes 4 months the to start working. Hell even rock dust is broken down by enzymes and is avaialable faster than that 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillybonker Posted September 24, 2021 Author Share Posted September 24, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, blackpoolbouncer said: Liquid kelp is almost immediately available. If your soil is active kelp meal will start to break down and start to release in a week or two as worms and other associated decomposers move into it and continue for about 4 months. Its slow release but not that slow it takes 4 months the to start working. Hell even rock dust is broken down by enzymes and is avaialable faster than that I'm pretty excited about the added addition of kelp. I didn't realize kelp meal breaks down faster than what google had me believe, that's what made me go searching for an alternative quicker release version. Edited September 24, 2021 by Phillybonker 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackpoolbouncer Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 Kelp is great in any form. Kelp and bf+b are the only dry ammendments I use fertiliser wise full stop. No need for anything else imo Macros and micros taken care off. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thai Stick Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 Talking about help/seaweed/algae... I recently contacted the manufacturer of a "Liquid Seaweed" that is made from a combination of freshwater bluegreen algae, and brown seaweed found at medium sea depths... I asked them what the NPK value was and they told me is has no NPK and only creates hormones... "Super Seaweed Algae is an extracted algae that helps create hormones. Stimulate rooting, increase flower buds, enlarge fruit size and help freeze the water on the leaves Make the trees more resistant to sunlight and heat. Similar to how people apply skin cream to make the skin full of water. Will nourish stem, root, leaves, flowers and fruit. Tree restoration. Stimulate flowering." (using google translate) Very confused by this as i thought this stuff would be full of NPK.....@blackpoolbouncer what do you think? Has something been lost in translation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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