Guest Posted September 8, 2021 Share Posted September 8, 2021 hi buddha, wouldnt do no harm to put insulation jackets around pots to stop rooms temperature conducting through (like the ones on the wee water tank in a roof space) and a chiller is a must mate, mid flower and you get pythium its curtains, anticipate chiller and stuff to be around 350 to 400 mark. you've picked the dearest method to grow with in every sense. if EC rises means decrease nutes EC lowers means increase nutes EC stays the same means keep er lit dont be skimping with res changes and change res every week airstones oxygenate water poorly compared to fluming, anyone with an aquarium would agree best of luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rural Buddha Posted September 11, 2021 Author Share Posted September 11, 2021 Day 30 Plenty of growth, these seem very 'compact' plants. Stem now around 6mm diameter. All have five nodes so am contemplating topping them and maybe taking the scraggly lower leaves off. Is that a good or bad thing to do? I'll up the nutes again to around 1.0EC tomorrow. @TheGreenShabeenReturns - I've ordered some 10mm polystyrene sheet to make insulation jackets, thanks for the idea. I bought a chiller, its in the system and absolutely necessary. I came in to a little money and went berserk I'm enjoying the technical challenge as much as anything, and looking after something alive (just about keeping myself alive ). Res changes, now there's a thing - I'm thinking of making a poll in the Hydro Q&A section to see what others on UK420 do. A search across various weed forums finds many different ways from weekly to never! Plant 4 - there are what appears to be a few deformed leaves? Can't see that they've been munched. Plant 3 - brown mark on a few leaves. Plant 2 Plant 1 - a bit smaller than the others, and a few differently deformed leaves. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rural Buddha Posted September 11, 2021 Author Share Posted September 11, 2021 Day 33 - NOT 30 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badbillybob Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 i would be topping them. And change out res religiously every 10 days, unless you like fighting sick weak plants over the finishing line. Think of it like this; im sure you know that plants uptake different amounts of each element throughout the grow, so just say its feeding on a lot of N in veg, and not a lot of P and K. this will obviously mean there is less N in the mix when the system level goes down, and more P and K and everything else. now you add more nutes without emptying system, now there is twice as much P and K , and half as much N as you originally had. if you continue with this, you can see whatsgoing to happen, cant you? lockouts etc. (this is put as basically/ simply as i can put it, obviously there is a lot more to it than this, but you get the idea). Sure, you could battle through without changing the res out, fighting deficiencies and lockouts/burn etc, but why make an easy job difficult, and every plant set back robs it of reaching its full potential. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badbillybob Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 oh, and up the nutes to 1.2 ec, they look a bit hungry 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rural Buddha Posted September 12, 2021 Author Share Posted September 12, 2021 10 hours ago, badbillybob said: i would be topping them. And change out res religiously every 10 days, unless you like fighting sick weak plants over the finishing line. Think of it like this; im sure you know that plants uptake different amounts of each element throughout the grow, so just say its feeding on a lot of N in veg, and not a lot of P and K. this will obviously mean there is less N in the mix when the system level goes down, and more P and K and everything else. now you add more nutes without emptying system, now there is twice as much P and K , and half as much N as you originally had. if you continue with this, you can see whatsgoing to happen, cant you? lockouts etc. (this is put as basically/ simply as i can put it, obviously there is a lot more to it than this, but you get the idea). Sure, you could battle through without changing the res out, fighting deficiencies and lockouts/burn etc, but why make an easy job difficult, and every plant set back robs it of reaching its full potential. Thanks @badbillybob - that makes perfect sense and you have put it clearly why, seems obvious now you have explained it. I'll be changing the water and upping the EC to 1.2 later this morning - and topping them too. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu914 Posted September 12, 2021 Share Posted September 12, 2021 @Rural Buddha Coming along nicely bud...and everything Billy said... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedstockers-Mark Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 @Rural Buddha Really nice growth over the last 7-10 days mate @badbillybob Thanks for stopping by mate. I know you know your hydro/dwc very well Kind regards Mark.. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rural Buddha Posted September 13, 2021 Author Share Posted September 13, 2021 Disaster averted? I check the water temp., EC and pH most days, in the brain pot and bubbler no.1. I think I'd noticed that the outlet from the chiller seemed a bit less than usual but just thought the pump was on one of its off times. When I measured the brain pot temp this afternoon it was 23, not good something is wrong so checked the pump that pulls the water through the bubbler pots then pushes it through the chiller. When I pulled the pump off the pipe coming from the bubblers the output went back to a powerful flume - there's a blockage somewhere, have clay pebbles got in the filter or something? Switched the system to drain back to the res. and unscrewed the filter, no pebbles but the filter is covered with slime blocking the flow. The R-DWC kit came with two filters so I swapped them over, set the system back to normal mode and the flow through the chiller is good again. To get the water temp. down a little quicker I popped a couple of frozen coolbox blocks in the brain pot. Should I run the system without the filter? Or as I have two, swap them over each time I do a res. change? Changed the reservoir water yesterday, EC now 1.2. Topped and a minute tidy of lower leaves and a few side shoots too. Polystyrene sheet arrived today so insulation jackets for the bubbler pots will be made soon. Day 35 Plant 2 roots - don't feel slimy, only just a touch brown, looks worse in photo than actual eyeballs. Should I do something? Or leave alone. Last photo of roots out @stu914 - unless I screw up again! Plant 2 - looks OK? 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu914 Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 Just now, Rural Buddha said: the filter is covered with slime blocking the flow. Have you found out what caused this slime? I t's not normal and if it's reduced the flow then dissolved oxygen is also reduced which leads to problems. Hopefully you've caught it before any damage but I would dose the reservoir with oxyplus (H2O2) just in case. With any luck it's just a little nute staining on those roots, the point where they merge a few inches under the pot is where rot will strike, keep and eye on it. The plants look happy enought atm fingers crossed... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rural Buddha Posted September 13, 2021 Author Share Posted September 13, 2021 13 minutes ago, stu914 said: Have you found out what caused this slime? My only thought for a cause, so far, is that I'd not changed the res. for 20 days. I'll pop to the hydro shop and get some Oxyplus tomorrow. Water is 90% rainwater from butts collecting off roof plus 10% rested* tap water. Feed is Plagron Hydro a+b (was 0.8EC when the slime formed @ ~80ml in ~125lt) and 10ml of Tribus. Two pots have Mykos Root Paks in them. Other than pH down that's all that gone in the water. I cleaned and pHd the Hydrocorn many times before using it. Thanks for the advice Stu, I'll keep everyone informed on how things go. * I'll use some straight tap water next change, my water is very hard - mgCaCO3/l = 350, EC ~0.7 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rural Buddha Posted September 14, 2021 Author Share Posted September 14, 2021 Reading up on Oxyplus it says not to use it if using beneficial bacteria - I think the Tribus is this? Hopefully the slime is just because I'd not done a water change for nearly three weeks. I'll keep a very close eye the whole system, if I see the slime in the filter again maybe I'd better do a res. change, leave the Tribus out and use some Oxyplus to hopefully get rid of the problem. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu914 Posted September 14, 2021 Share Posted September 14, 2021 25 minutes ago, Rural Buddha said: Tribus I've never heard of this stuff but hazard a guess it's most likely the cause... @badbillybob...what you reckon Billy? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rural Buddha Posted September 14, 2021 Author Share Posted September 14, 2021 Add in @zen-ken 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badbillybob Posted September 14, 2021 Share Posted September 14, 2021 its the tribus and h2o2 fighting each other, one is a beneficial, other is a steriliser. the tribus is the most likely cause of the slime imho. you need to decide which way you want to go......hint = sterile if you are going sterile, you will need to drain system, bleach it out (with domestos), rinse out, refill and start over with h202 or endrosan or whatever steriliser you fancy. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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