Keeping The Spider Mites Out

[coling]

does anybody know of any plant i can put in my greenhouse that will keep spider mites out. I heard that they dont like garlic, is this true? If there isnt anything natural i can use does anyone know of a good spray.

NEED TO KILL THEM ALL

[oldtimer1]

You can’t keep spider mites out of a greenhouse if the area near it is infested. This time of the year you can get good control with the predator mite Phytoseiulus, try here!

[Guest south east toker]

sorry to hear of your troubles buddy,try the link under here (northern lights) i had an awful time with the little fcukers last time round,theres some good info from people on there how to deal with them.....good luck.

s.e.t

[Guest RAZ]

Can't see a link SET.....

RAZ

[Owderb]

Under his last post Raz....Northern lights

[Guest RAZ]

Under his last post Raz....Northern lights

371764[/snapback]

Duh cheers Owderb, can't see the woods for the tree's

RAZ

[oldtimer1]

s.e.t whoever told you that the predators will work under 12/12 light hrs was wrong. As soon as mite become diapausal their fat body changes, you can see this they change from clear to red or dark coloured. Depending on the strain this starts to happen round the 14 to 13 hr light hrs period. When this happens they become more and more distasteful to the predators and they wont eat them, instead they eat one another so you paid good money to make them into cannibals.

A good point is that Phytoseiulus do like high humidity to breed fast, so when used in a green house damping down two or three time a day will help them to out breed the mites. The predators should be added as soon as there is a sign of a mite, two additions could be needed, once established in a greenhouse they will either eradicate the mites or control the population until September.

[Guest south east toker]

s.e.t whoever told you that the predators will work under 12/12 light hrs was wrong. As soon as mite become diapausal their fat body changes, you can see this they change from clear to red or dark coloured. Depending on the strain this starts to happen round the 14 to 13 hr light hrs period. When this happens they become more and more distasteful to the predators and they wont eat them, instead they eat one another so you paid good money to make them into cannibals.

A good point is that Phytoseiulus do like high humidity to breed fast, so when used in a green house damping down two or three time a day will help them to out breed the mites. The predators should be added as soon as there is a sign of a mite, two additions could be needed, once established in a greenhouse they will either eradicate the mites or control the population until September.

371774[/snapback]

Morning ot1,thx for your input there ive read thro it and see where your coming from my last attempt was ruined by spidermite and by pointing to that thread i thought it may help out as theres lots of discussion on ways and means of dealing with them,if my mind serves me right a woman named karen from defenders emailed me back after i asked something along the lines of will the preds work under 4x400hps on a light cycle of 12 hours on/off and the reply was along the lines of i cant see why they wouldn,t work under them conditions! maybe i should email them again see if i get the same responce? im very much new to this growing lark and learning more every day,today is no different keep up the good work your reply has been noted.

s.e.t

[BomShiva]

If its mothers or vegtable stuff your growing and your realy having a bad time with pests, try Provado its a very new systemic applicant thats fairly safe to humans.

Wouldent want to smoke it tho!

Edit to say ive never used it myself, but ive seen it used in growrooms in the veg stage, and with it being systemic it sorts everything out super fast, however i wouldent smoke owt sprayed with it myself! even if it was applied in the veg stage

I would only use it as a last ditch attempt to save mothers and genes that i hold that cannot be replaced.

But it sure does work from what ive seen, no messing.......

Bom!

Edited August 7, 2005 by BomShiva

[adamferre]

hey guys, theres also this stuff called neem oil, its made from the oil of some indian plant, and kills em all really easily 3 treatments ova 6 days. just 5ml in 1 litre and only bout a tenner for 100ml so not bad value. spray your plants with the solution, even in budding stage. the product is natural so doesnt fuck ya when its smoked. the company that makes it dont earn in money from it so its well hard to get hold of in the uk, but i suggest looking on dutch sites or sumink

[Guest spikeychops]

If all else fails try this:

Take 5 cloves of garlic (gloves NOT whole bulbs), take the skin off and crush them and chop 'em as small as ya like.

Take one red, bird eye chilli, crush and chop small, add garlic and chilli to a pan with a litre of boiling water, and slow boil/simmer

for 15 mins, Take a blender, a hand type is best, and blend the mixture in the pot till milky and smooth, poor into a container, an old pasta sauce or similar jar with a lid is good.

Get a fine strainer / seive a quarter of a litre to one litre of fresh cold water, and put into a mister bottle, spray the plants up, down and sideways.

Sorted.

The garlic spray also coats the leaves with a glossy residue which lasts for a few days, so help to prevent reinfection.

Natural, virtually free, and works.

Good luck matey.

[tony2wheelsgood]

neem oil is marketed by Advance Nutrients and is called Genius Oil. 420 shop can prob get it for you. works very well.