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adding wormcasts


badbillybob

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If your mixing it with something low nutrient like @buddy13 then high ratios are fine. If your starting with hot compost 10% is enough. 

 

Ewc are only generally slightly hotter than full strength compost. Its compost but more processed and concentrated. 

 

Feed your worms newspaper and cardboard your gonna have weak ewc. Feed them poop and cardboard and then your rocking. 

If 75% of the worms diet is manure obviously produces a different product than worms on a 75% cardboard diet.

 

One could be used to start seedlings. One is for top dressing.

 

I guess how hot the ewc is dictates its use and ratio and how the other elements contribute to the overall nutrient bank available at any given time 

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9 hours ago, blackpoolbouncer said:

Id buy a bag of fresh compost lol

 

Id reluctantly do as you say and start in that concoction you've got as is and then when going to 1l 20% is probably a god number. 

 

I go as high as 30% in potting mixes but my constituents balance it out whereas there should be enough in the compost you've got as a seed mix.

 

 

Fwiw. Your cracking a lot of beans looking for perfect expressions of each genotype. You'd be doing yourself a favour starting with compost thats going to give healthy plants. Just my 2p. 

A fiver well spent on 75 litres of good stuff. 

 

Stick some spuds or carrots in the other compost in buckets. Jobs a good un. 

 

Atb

 

Aminopyralid & clopyralid scares the shit out of me, normally have to check it for 3 weeks before I can use it :bored:

Edited by Funk P
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7 hours ago, Funk P said:

 

Aminopyralid & clopyralid scares the shit out of me, normally have to check it for 3 weeks before I can use it :bored:

Me too mate, fuck grazon and the like. Its one of the big driving factors and reasons I now produce everything on site in a closed loop system. Last thing I want is that stuff getting in my veg/ flower beds. There's ony one person ill take trailer fulls of horse muck from and thats only because I know thier horses are fed otganic hay that I sell them and the field her horses on is riddled with docks and thistles amd has been the same for 20 years since she moved in so we are all good.

 

We used to buy in a lot of straw but the thought of it gave me the willies

 

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3 hours ago, blackpoolbouncer said:

Me too mate, fuck grazon and the like. Its one of the big driving factors and reasons I now produce everything on site in a closed loop system. Last thing I want is that stuff getting in my veg/ flower beds. There's ony one person ill take trailer fulls of horse muck from and thats only because I know thier horses are fed otganic hay that I sell them and the field her horses on is riddled with docks and thistles amd has been the same for 20 years since she moved in so we are all good.

 

We used to buy in a lot of straw but the thought of it gave me the willies

 

 

Your in a very lucky position man, my mrs has got a pony I'm gunna start using its shit but even then I'm gunna have to ask the farmer what he uses. He probably has no fucking clue will most likely just say its something his dad was using so he uses it :wallbash:

Edited by Funk P
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aye, im going to pot them into my old soil in party cups for a kick off, with a little mollasses water to get the microherd into action, then when i pot up i will put the wormcasts in, just to give them a fighting chance to get out the blocks (before i kill them lol) 

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I don't want to sound like I know anything cause I dont & I know your experienced & you probably already know this but from what I've heard from Elaine Ingham is that we've got to be careful with molasses to an extent because it grows the bacterial population by quite bit & can outcompete fungi? To be honest I don't think bacteria gets the credit they deserve anyways they are so instrumental to a plants health espicially at the rhizosphere... I'm gunna have to see if this is true & have a look under the microscope.

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That would be interesting. 

i would like to know what you find out, if you dont mind posting the results

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Molasses causes a huge explosion as it is high calorific food full of sugars. This population very quickly starves as the molasses is used up back to equilibrium. 

 

Its a bit like having a very sugary drink for us. Gives us a burst if energy but causes a crash when used. 

 

I've stopped using molasses now and concentrate on feeding the microherd less temporary diets that dont cause huge swings.

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On 29/04/2021 at 11:53 AM, badbillybob said:

jacks magical concrete

I know that feeling :yes: I’ve set 9 foot concrete fence posts in that stuff after realising plants won’t grow in it !

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1 hour ago, blackpoolbouncer said:

Molasses causes a huge explosion as it is high calorific food full of sugars. This population very quickly starves as the molasses is used up back to equilibrium. 

 

Its a bit like having a very sugary drink for us. Gives us a burst if energy but causes a crash when used. 

 

I've stopped using molasses now and concentrate on feeding the microherd less temporary diets that dont cause huge swings.

ohferfuxsakes, now ye tell me. .

oh well nevermind, its done now.

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16 hours ago, blackpoolbouncer said:

I've stopped using molasses now and concentrate on feeding the microherd less temporary diets that dont cause huge swings.

What do you recommend? 

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28 minutes ago, grower951 said:

What do you recommend? 

Without writing a huge essay, there is no need to be trying to create huge swings. 

If feeding the microherd is the name of the game then the soil should be created in such a fashion that it is supplying the food needed for the microherd to feed on. 

 

You mist ask yourself why you feel the need to upset what should already be an equilibrium with enough food to support whatever balance of fungi/bacteria.

 

Want to increase bacterial dominance feed them anything that bacteria eats.

Want to increase fungal dominance feed what fungi eats. 

 

When making compost the big driving factor in this is the c/n ratio. A high carbon to nitrogen soil tends to favour fungal dominance and opposite for bacteria. 

 

Simple solution to add beneficial is to add material containing said beneficials or feed the ones you've got.

 

An analogy would be think of your mocroherd like a factory of workers that never stops. 

You need to feed them three square meals a day of balanced nutrition. This is like compost that has a constant stream of matter the good stuff van work on to decay. 

 

Its no good at the beginning of the month feeding the workers one huge meal which makes them go mad for a day and then they are left with scraps off the floor for the rest of the month. 

This is like feeding molasses vs something they can chow down on for a good while. 

 

What you give them to chow down on is up to you but organic material is what drives soil. Take your pick 

 

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