Doby Mick Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 Fuck it , I will give it a go with a tomato to see if it cooks it ( my worry ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alltimer Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 I'm new to LED myself and have just got the Par+465w after reading some good reports and have to say its a very nice light. I'm in a 1m tent and have found that to keep temps up I'm just running it at full power at 42" above canopy, this gives me ppfd of around 600 at plant tops and between 28-29 ambient temperature, humidity has been low so ive been running a humidifier as well. Running it at 60% at 24" gives me pretty much the same ppfd, but I start struggling with temps. As the weather gets warmer I think these lights will get a lot easier to adjust to. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest anarchycamp Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 Missus says it'll be fine to use ceramic IR bulb/heat bulb,but make sure you use a pulse thermostat with the probe where you need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zen-ken Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 On 26/03/2021 at 10:59 PM, Wacky Wardrobe said: In this case an IR source is heating by radiation exciting the atoms of a surface. (That surface can then warm the surrounding air.) A radiator is warming by exciting it's own atoms to heat the target indirectly by conduction through air. The camera is ultra sensitive and can detect very small amounts of IR from the radiator through a vacuum but it wouldn't be warmed by it significantly. An IR lamp wouldn't see the vacuum. It's how we feel the sun's heat through a vacuum. Convection, conduction and radiation.....see...I was listening mr smith 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweettooth Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 17 minutes ago, alltimer said: I'm new to LED myself and have just got the Par+465w after reading some good reports and have to say its a very nice light. I'm in a 1m tent and have found that to keep temps up I'm just running it at full power at 42" above canopy, this gives me ppfd of around 600 at plant tops and between 28-29 ambient temperature, humidity has been low so ive been running a humidifier as well. Running it at 60% at 24" gives me pretty much the same ppfd, but I start struggling with temps. As the weather gets warmer I think these lights will get a lot easier to adjust to. I have the opposite. Im running a lumie 600 pro and a 465 pro in a 1.5 x 3 m tent, both turned up to 100% and about 12 inches from canopy. I run a sealed tent with co2 and am running 2 dehumidifiers to keep up with the humidity and temps are lovely at 29 degrees without any heating although its the 2 dehumifiers that are pumping out heat. I cant wait for the sunshine to warm up my loft, im already getting night time temps of 25 degrees (i flower at night). I think leds that incorporate IR will be the next big thing, if you can maintain temps between 29 and 31 without additional expensive heating then congrats, I only manage it through my style of growing. If I was constantly extracting, my temps would be so much lower but on the flip side, sealing my tent and not extracting, i'd be no where without co2. Due to post the start of week 4 flower pics, looking stacked again already. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zen-ken Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 (edited) If only there was a cheap way to add IR and Heat.....by using some existing technology.....say some kind of ballast and bulb arrangement ? Would have to be far red spectrum. Where we would purchase such a crazy device ? Having set ups for HPS and using LEDS is problematic ime. (extraction etc) Edited March 30, 2021 by zen-ken 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SYZYGY Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 The ideas in this thread echo my own thoughts. Once the root zone is happy, Leaf Surface Temp is what needs to be in the sweet spot for optimal photosynthesis, and in my mind the most 'efficient' way of achieving this must be with IR rather than spending a fortune heating air only for it be removed quick time. I had a stoned daydream about a fixture with an extra potentiometer to dial in the IR for radiative heat. If you've managed a good environmental balance in your room then happy days, but whenever something is out of whack and the plants aren't happy, the first thing I'm checking is leaf surface temp cause it can be way off ambient if the plants are over transpiring, for instance. In this case the first thing I'm doing is dimming the lights until factors are back in balance. I also now dim the lights for a few days after every stress event - topping, potting up etc. The IR temp gun is an essential diagnostic tool for tweaking an LED grow IMHO. One thing I notice with LED is that phenotypic expression is exaggerated, and that includes the individual needs of each cultivar. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdog Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 (edited) is there a big difference between lights and the diodes? i say this because at high powers my par+ light is bloody warm ( fuck knows how hot the 600 will be!), even at 2ft i'm sure it kept the canopy warm. i had great results without worrying (would have been better if i hadn't over ferted!) , that said the grow was in the living room so a warmer room then the bedroom, but even so i was trying to keep temps down most of the time. as for the quality, i have been vaping the jack47 and it's bloody lovely, my mate came round yesterday and said it was very "chatty weed" Edited March 30, 2021 by ratdog 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McHazy Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 44 minutes ago, ratdog said: high powers my par+ light is bloody warm ( fuck knows how hot the 600 will be!) I only have the 240 an it along wi the driver in the tent keep the ambient temps at 29c lights on 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweettooth Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 3 hours ago, ratdog said: is there a big difference between lights and the diodes? i say this because at high powers my par+ light is bloody warm ( fuck knows how hot the 600 will be!), even at 2ft i'm sure it kept the canopy warm. i had great results without worrying (would have been better if i hadn't over ferted!) , that said the grow was in the living room so a warmer room then the bedroom, but even so i was trying to keep temps down most of the time. as for the quality, i have been vaping the jack47 and it's bloody lovely, my mate came round yesterday and said it was very "chatty weed" There must be but also the type of driver as My lumatek 600 doesn't run that hot. These other brands, especially the board type lights seem to run very hot. My mate has the hydrofarm SP3000 and that runs hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdog Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 Just now, sweettooth said: There must be but also the type of driver as My lumatek 600 doesn't run that hot. These other brands, especially the board type lights seem to run very hot. My mate has the hydrofarm SP3000 and that runs hot. it's not the driver mate, it's the actual light being transmitted, it's on 60% now so not as intense but up high it's very warm. i'm not that worried going by my last grow, i have a good heat mat/stat and the weather is warming up quite fast now, it's like a summers day here today. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GSZZ Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 4 hours ago, sweettooth said: I think leds that incorporate IR will be the next big thing It won't be. Adding IR chips would just bring the total system efficiency down. Electricity in but no mass yielding photons out, kinda goes against the point, like zen ken says we might as well go back to HPS if we're going to do that (but HPS is at the end of the road tech wise, I can't see them squeezing much more than 2.1 umoles per watt out of the exsisting technology). 4 hours ago, ratdog said: i say this because at high powers my par+ light is bloody warm ( fuck knows how hot the 600 will be!), Got my par plus hung, had it on 60% with the driver in the tent and struggled to get things warm I can touch the panel after hours and hours of being turned on and its barely warm? Weird. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McHazy Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 Pretty sure most o the heat in my setup is from the driver like tho at 100% the panel gets pretty toasty too 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdog Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 (edited) 9 minutes ago, GSZZ said: Got my par plus hung, had it on 60% with the driver in the tent and struggled to get things warm I can touch the panel after hours and hours of being turned on and its barely warm? Weird. yeah, i just said mate at 60% it's not as intense but up full it's very warm, too hot to touch e2a, mind you after 30 years in my trade my hands are quite sensitive to heat i have been running it high for the most part last grow and the plants loved it, i might just wind it back up and see how they go. i just took reading of leaf temps and they range from 23-25oC atm, so i have turned the light up full and will see what that delivers. i think i wasn't taking into account the heating in the flat at times when i was looking in the tent also, the tent is right next to a radiator Edited March 30, 2021 by ratdog 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McHazy Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 It gets hot aye but nae hot enough to burn ye I still got a scar on my shoulder from about 7 years ago when I brushed the bulb ffs 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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