DIY'ing the DIYLEDUK - Operation Beast Mode Light

[Slippy One]

Hi all DIY'ers, I thought you might like a look at a hybrid light I made from 2x @diyleduk products.

 

First purchase was a 'Scope 275' back in the day, later upgraded just the lighting strips to Scope V2, which offer more deep reds than the original Scope. Then came a High Light 240 lighting board, which I bought after reading the following blurb:

 

"The extremely popular highlight board kit - for true connoisseur growers - is back and better than ever! With new features and an improved spectrum; these are amongst the most advanced LED grow lights on the market.The new "High Light 420" Horticultural LED pcb takes growing to the next level. With a broader UV range, increased Far Red, splash-resistant coating, and a waterproof plug-and-play cable system.

With 20% better efficiency than the original High Light boards - over 3 umol/j at low current - these Australian-made grow lights combine top-bin Nichia LEDs with an array of customised highly efficient LED Teknik diodes (420 total), that cover the entire spectral range from UV to Far Red (390nm-780nm) with no supplementary lighting required. A collaboration between Grow Lights Australia and LED Teknik, the High Light 420 board is the most efficient “true” full spectrum, single-channel LED grow light on the market. These new lights have 5% UV and near-UV (390-420nm) and 10% Far Red (700-780nm) for faster growth and essential oil production."

 

Most of which I didn't understand except the bit that says "faster growth and essential oil production", and I was sold. 

 

The High Light 240 alone is possibly overkill for an 80x80cm tent but I knew they'd be great together. I bolted a frame together using 40mm aluminium u-channel for the Scope V2 strips, wrapped the frame around the High Light pcb, wired the Scope strips back up in parallel and hung the beast up for my next SCROG. I even sprayed the frame in black paint to make it look nice. 

 

Both the Vo ADJ & Io ADJ on the original Scope driver now at lowest setting, which I believe to be 50% - The dimmer on the High Light is set to around 1/4 turn off the lowest setting. 

 

 

In action, both on:

Using the Scope V2's to replicate sunrise and sunset, they're on alone for 2 hours before the High Light kicks in, same in reverse, the Scope's fly solo for the last 2 hours.

 

Full sun

 

Temps and RH% sorted

 

My Sassberry (Purple Haze x GG3) looking happy with all that light. Another week and there's no space in there, especially once the grid is installed for an even canopy.

 

So that's it, both lights really compliment each other. With 2x drivers on separate timers, I can play with both to respond to the plants needs. Both on 100% would create a lot of heat and probably burn the plants, but reducing both to half voltage, using only the Scope for the first and last 2hrs, I should keep running costs and heat down. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Shumroom]

Brilliant 

 

Atb 

 

 

[Slippy One]

Gotta say a big shout out to Adam @diyledukfor all the bits and bolts, couldn't have done this without his advice and help. I was going to mix the samsung PCB's, thankfully I was warned against that.

 

 

Edited February 24, 2021 by Slippy One

[Dan t]

Nice one.  I was just going to split my scopex and then hang them with highlight as 3 separate units. But seeing the way this is done I've changed plan.  One big frame for the lot is the way forward I think.

[Slippy One]

Ideal with your sized tent, just don't run them both at 100%, together they can really pump out some heat and lumens. Let me know if you need help, it's a pretty easy job that can be done on the floor, I went for a kind of H shape, you might find a rectangle works best.

 

I bolted the frame together over glueing for piece of mind, but the strips can be attatched without the bolts if you use thermal tape, super secure. Make sure to wire the strips back in parallel, not in series, as this could change voltages. 

 

 

 

 

[growinggold]

Hey @Slippy OneOneOneOne

 

 

Love this, I'm running summits similar atm in my 80x80. I think I went ott with 240w and stretchy gals.  How do I go about bolting them together.  

 

Also am I right in thinking you have the v2scopes on for first 2 hours, then scope V2 and highlight for 10 and then back to scope V2 for last 2.  How long you been doing this mate?

 

[Dan t]

Thanks @Slippy One.  I was with you up untill the bit about wiring in parrallel not in series. Iv no clue what that means

I'm hoping to keep it as simple as possible. Measure, a few cuts then drilling and bolting some frame together.

 

[growinggold]

Same @Dan tt kkepep it simples, don't mind running both drivers it's keeps my tent warm

[Dan t]

4 minutes ago, growinggold said:

Same @Dan tt kkepep it simples, don't mind running both drivers it's keeps my tent warm

Yep. My scopex is two 220 wats so that should help me a lot. I shouldnt  need to rewire if plan it well. Another plus is I'll have 3 dimmers to get things dialed in with. 

[growinggold]

@Dan t just need to figure out a frame on how to connect the two existing heatsinks.....hmm

[Dan t]

Just now, growinggold said:

@Dan t just need to figure out a frame on how to connect the two existing heatsinks.....hmm

Giving myself untill the next grow to work it out. Plenty of time to plan and source some parts.  Ive got a rough idea in my head but I'll see how it pans out in reallty.

[tokenroll]

Lights a beauty and nice to see it all up and running with the plants loving it.

Toke...

[Slippy One]

1 hour ago, growinggold said:

Hey @Slippy OneOneOneOne

 

 

How do I go about bolting them together.  

 

Also am I right in thinking you have the v2scopes on for first 2 hours, then scope V2 and highlight for 10 and then back to scope V2 for last 2.  How long you been doing this mate?

 

I played around with the frame with 80cm box marked out on the floor to find the best fit. You've already got the heatsinks and a few bolts with hooks for the hangers (these are impossible to find without a hunt - thanks to Adam), plus the L shaped rails from the Scope. My heatsinks are just aluminium U channel, so I had a small advantage in being able to use their open sides for attaching the rails. There's always epoxy glue, 45 degree brackets if you get stuck, but always finish with a bolt for strength. I used pound shop vice grips to hold L rail to U channel then drilled clean holes, bolted tight before releasing the grips. I'm no metalworker. Your living room rug will get covered in little twists of metal so do it outside if it's sunny..

 

As for the sunrise/sunset Scope only, yes, but I changed it to only 30 mins after noticing some stretch, so with the scopes still on half power (both Vo & lo on the driver) for 30 mins and the High Light on for 11hrs. I think the dimmed 30 mins at the start and end help the plant relax for full sun, and again ready for rest. I'm keeping the High Light a smidge off full power and I'll be checking daily for signs of leaf burn.. 

 

[Slippy One]

1 hour ago, Dan t said:

Thanks @Slippy One.  I was with you up untill the bit about wiring in parrallel not in series. Iv no clue what that means

I'm hoping to keep it as simple as possible. Measure, a few cuts then drilling and bolting some frame together. 

 

Simply means each samsung strip gets its own negative and positive wire loop direct from the driver, on side the + - terminals. ie how Adam wired them. It's very simple. 

 

I'm not sure the strips wired in series (the other way) is bad, but it sounds inefficient and basically involves keeping each of the - + on the same loop from the driver, so each + terminal on every strip is connected to the + on the next board using the opposite + terminal daisy chain. It's easier to understand if you google it there's a chart diagram somewhere.. I'm pretty baked hope this makes sense..

 

[Slippy One]

2 hours ago, growinggold said:

Same @Dan tt kkepep it simples, don't mind running both drivers it's keeps my tent warm

I toyed with the idea of bolting the drivers to the frame to keep things tidy and warm but it was too heavy. Great idea to keep the drivers in the tent over winter though.